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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by modrover, Apr 13, 2004.
Welcome, no worries. My Italian is terrible.
I speak a little Eye-talian.
A good start but you can only improve!
My original windshield is pretty thrashed. I've been going round and round with what to replace it with. Came across this pic and was wondering if anyone knows the source of this windscreen?
Dunno about that one, but when I crashed mine, I made a new one outta black plastic rubbish bin. I think I made it about 20mm taller than the stock and it was pretty much perfect.
I had a related problem. My TAAT was riding nice along the roads and highways in Puerto Rico. When I took it to the states, it performed nice along the twisties in Ga. But right after riding out of Denver back in 2015, it started to have issues. This bike I moded the tank and fearing to AT so, because the lower part of the tank was lower than the carbs, a vacuum pump was needed to be able to use that amount of fuel. Otherwise it will rest there useless. But I remember that when going at high speeds it started sputtering, but there was fuel in the tank. While on the road we stopped several times (it was a 3500 miles one month ride) trying to troubleshoot the problem. I had to keep the fuel tank full all the time, giving me less than a 100 miles. So we took off an inline fuel filter, we changed the cdi(thinking it might be the problem), plugs...but the problem persisted.
Between the enjoying the scenery and having fun, my riding pal and I didnt really focus on it until the last week of riding. It looks like the engine was fuel starving. So, while at Devil's Tower, I wired some cables to the extra fuse box in preparation for installing an electric fuel pump. We called an auto part store in Gillette, WY and right in the parking lot we swapped the Mikuni fuel pump with a Facet electric fuel pump. Voilá, problem solved.
Facet tech info: https://www.facet-purolator.com/tech-information/
Later I exchanged the fuel pump to a lower psi (1.0 psi) as the one we installed had a higher psi than what was needed. But man, the bike was running smooth and I could squeeze up to the last drop of fuel.
Santa: Are you looking for a stock fork?
Fabio GOFFI designs,builds,sells and sends it.In all the world. It is built in vetroresina. He also asells many interesting parts for Transalp. And many type of windshield. You can conctat him in facebook. Personally or in the group "honda transalp worldwide".
I'm currently doing the XR fork swap and could use some advice from those that have done it.
The XR axle spacer sleeve is longer than the TA one, meaning that I can't fully seat the wheel bearings before they contact the sleeve on the inner races. It seems to leave about a 1mm gap between the bearing seat lip and the bearing outer race. I'm about 90% sure I'm not screwing things up, but there's always a chance that I am.
To anyone who's done the XR fork swap, did you notice the same? Is it worth stacking some shims between the outer races and the bearing seat within the hub to minimize any chance of lateral wheel migration? Or is there no way in hell the hub is going to slip laterally on two pressed bearings?
I used a XR650L complete front end....fork, clamps, wheel, axle and brake etc. I guess you are trying to use the XR fork legs and TA wheel??? Might need to use the TA spacer with the TA wheel. I don't remember the axles being different diameters ?
Your terminology is a little confusing. How about some pictures?
Hers a pic.
You've either been locked up too long or not long enough.
Man, talk about a loose spacer!
But it makes perfect sense in my head......
Lemme see if I can draw it up to make it make more sense to those of you outside of my mind.
P.S. Pretty sure tag3 is outside of his mind too
Just machine down the length of the XR spacer to match the TA wheel.
You wont notice lateral wheel migration ,but for sure you will have premature bearing failure.
You'd better focus on the outer spacers.Keep the wheel aligned is the most important task.
Ok, here's my not-quite-to-scale drawing. I'm using parts for a 2009 XR650L. The issue is that the XR spacer/sleeve doesn't allow for the bearings to fully seat in the hub. It leaves the small gaps as labelled in my drawing that could theoretically allow the hub to move laterally a millimeter either way. My current thought it to throw some brass shims in that gap to take up that extra space.
As plumer1kt mentioned, I could just machine down the spacer, but that presents another problem. The XR bearings are 10mm wide while the TA bearings are 11mm wide. Machining down the spacer and having the bearings fully seated would leave the bearings "submerged" in the hub, not slightly proud of it as the TA bearings are when seated. Does this even matter? Can I take up the space elsewhere with additional spacers? I can't use the TA spacer as TA axle is 15mm and XR axle is 17mm.
But the reason I decided to ask at all is my idiot alarm is going off because other inmates here have said this swap is easy as pie. Did y'all just say screw it and not worry about the mm here or there, or am I completely missing something?
Measure the XRL and TA outer spacers (brake disc side).
Are they same?
Measure the inner spacers.
Is the difference 2mm?
Then the total lenght (outer spacer+inner spacers-+bearings) is the same .
And that's the reason forthe spacer (and hub) difference.The bearings!
If i am correct then your wheel should be aligned.
But if you machine down the inner spacer , then you'll have to add those 2mm on the outer spacers.
You need the wheel aligned.
Why don't you buy a XR-R 600 hub or wheel?You can have a 320mm disc there while you can't on the XRL hub.
Is that the reason you need the TA wheel?
For info, XR600R and XRL hubs+spacers have the same total length.
And lace the TA's 1,85x21 rim on the XR hub using the same spokes XRR has 36 spokes instead the 32 of the XRL.
Ok, got it. I would probably cut down the XRL inner hub spacer and use some washers out by the fork legs to make up the difference. I had to do something like that when I put the KLR wheel on the rear. There's several ways you could do it...it's important that the fork legs are not in a bind (pinched in or spread out).