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Simpson Desert & Hay River, Australia

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by DANNOj, Jul 2, 2009.

  1. DANNOj

    DANNOj Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,176
    Location:
    Perth, Australia
    Thanks for tuning in..... I have ben HASSLED AND HASSLED for this ride report by various inmates down there in the Aussie section.... and all for good reason; this was an AWESOME RIDE!!

    I have a bunch of photos, and more to add, so check back in a week or two after the date of this post to see any new pics.

    For me, this trip was a return 8000km loop aboard my KTM 640 Adventure (which I will refer to as the "640"). I left Sydney, Australia on 6th June 2009, and got back 3 weeks and 1 day later.

    During my construction of the ride report I do not mean to be rude by not replying to people's questions or PM's halfway through compiling the RR -- I promise I will include any information about fuel economy, tyres, KTM subframes, gearing, panniers, screens, radios, etc all at the end.

    Let's start with a map for those that do not quite know the area. This was my route, heading North from Sydney, on the East Coast of Australia:

    [​IMG]

    My route is the bright green line.

    For those that know the area, here is a better view:

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    (please note, MS Paint visualisation only, not an accurate representation!!)

    Can you believe it..... 8000km and I only did a tiny corner of this massive country?

    I have been out to the actual Simpson Desert area of Australia before (crossed it on the KLR last year http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=384296), but nothing could have prepared me for the vastness; remoteness; sheer beauty of the Hay River track, which cuts through the Northern region of the Simpson Desert.

    There was a bit of planning that went into this trip:

    * Who would be invited (basically everyone :freaky)
    * Who had the right bike and setup
    * Sat phone, GPS, maps, Epirbs, Aboriginal Lands permits
    * Time off work, $$$$, commitment
    * Which route?
    * What tyres? What gearing? Do my hands look fat in these BMW Summer Rain Gloves??! :deal

    But being true ADVenturers, we worked it all out with minimum fuss :freaky

    A couple of credits:

    * DrAT from ADV for volunteering me his Turtle Pack (20L fuel bladder). I don't know this guy from a bar of soap, but he read about my trip prep, and simply offered me the use of his fuel bladder. Thanks Paul. Too kind.

    * OziMick for the inspiration to do this trip. He did it last year, but a slightly different route. You're a pioneer Mick. And after doing this trip, I can hardly believe that you were crazy enough to attempt the Madigan Line (although I am sure wholly capable!!).

    Interestingly, last year Mick and I both did Simpson desert trips of some kind -- without problem. This year aboard my new 640, I drowned it in the Murray River (ride report: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=454411) in the Victorian High Country. A month later, Mick managed to drown his 640 in the Eyre Creek, and then further on the same trip, had to turn around near Poeppel's Corner because of a mystery failure on his 640. A month later, I had to also turn around close to Peopel's Corner because of a busted sub-frame. Mick -- you inspire and lead me -- but cause great heartache at the same time!! :deal

    * OldFatBeerMan (will be referred to as OFBM or "old fat") who helped me with the set up of my 640, and was willing enough to reply to many various late-night text messages regarding such. Thanks mate.

    * Alan (AL510 from this board) who rode his big-tank, YZ-fork-equipped DR650 all the way with me, AND put up with me!! What a champion!! :thumb AND he can weld, spin spanners, drink, yarn and navigate. Good on ya mate.

    So without further delay, lets get into things.....

    I left my Northern Beaches Sydney apartment at 5am EST. It was cold, dark, somewhat wet and the bike was friggin heavy as I politely pushed it up the drive to start it, so as not to wake my neighbours. I cursed as I slung my leg over -- there was barely room for me between my bulging back-pack and the rear luggage. Thats not to mention the fact that I can barely touch the ground on the 640. Thankfully all the weight aids in sagging the rear suspension somewhat -- I can at least touch one foot on the ground.

    Lets not even start talking about the fact that I did not turn the fuel tap on to start the bike - I don't want to even recollect the thoughts of the battery slowing as I cranked the overloaded bitch, contemplating unloading all the panniers and tail bag so I could jump-start it...... FUEL TAP ON...... away we go....... FUCK-ME-HOORAY!!!!!! :clap :deal

    My rendezvous with OFBM was 6am at a place 90km from here, called Mangrove Mountain. I was not sure that I was going to make it however. With my 17 tooth "highway" front sproket, I could barely pull the fat 640 out of the drive!! All good -- thats why KTM invented clutches.... ride it, slip it, ride it, until I am out of the suburbs and on the express-way. From here it was easy sailing. I sat behind the screen that JohnC (from this forum) had kindly attached the week before, and was at the meeting point with time to spare!

    Funnily enough, OFBM also arrived at Mangrove cursing his ability to not over-pack, despite attempts to bring minimum kit!! As is the norm with a trip like this, it did not take us long to get used to our loads.

    It was JUST starting to get light at this stage, so I led the way towards Wollombi at full pace, and full excitement for the trip ahead. This was soon knocked back to 3/4 pace with a thick fog, which lasted all the way through to Broke. Luckily this was to be my only damp experience of the whole trip.

    With the big screen in front of me, I was able to forge ahead of Oldfat, who was also aboard a 640. The fog drenched our gloves, shoulders and boots, and was FREAKIN COLD!! :vardy He caught up in no time however, and overtook me to lead the way to Denman, Merriwa, Gilgandra and Warren, where we stopped for hot meat pies and Red Bull for lunch.....

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    It was midday, yet still under ten degrees C. We left our inner liners in, and neck warmers on, and powered ahead to Nyngan, then Bourke.....

    The twins enroute to Bourke............

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    This is my one. I bought it 3 months earlier in March with 7500km on it from a fellow ADV rider, who had already set it up for adventuring. With OFBM's help, I had it ready for this trip......

    [​IMG]

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    It was about 3pm by the time we rolled into Bourke. 850km was enough for me. I am sure that if I was on a comfort seat, or a V-twin, I could have easily knocked out 1000km, but Bourke was the meeting point for our friend Alan (AL510 from this board). Al is from Maryborough in Queensland.

    OFBM's name is also Alan, but let's just continue to call him by his tag, and the other Alan shall remain "Al".

    So OFBM and I arrived at Bourke, and checked into the pub/hotel. We were somewhat worried about Al, because he was only staying 500km away the night before. In this part of the country, that should have been 6 hours MAX away. Regardless, we settled into the atmosphere of the town, taking a walk by the river, and checking out the local historical monuments. After a couple of hours though, I heard the rumble of a DR650, and it was Al..... he had been delayed somewhat -- STAYED TUNED. It appears he had started his adventure before us! I will add pics and story later :evil Lets just say, his DR was splattered with grey mud-cakes!!

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    We had a big night -- it was good. We got hung-over -- it was bad. :freaky

    Port O' Bourke Hotel. HIGHLY recommended. Bed and feed for a very reasonable price, and secure, locked parking:

    [​IMG]

    From here we hit our first 200km of dirt. The week before the road was literally under water. We spoke to some locals who had crawled at 40km/hr in their 4WD the whole way. Luckily for us it was just nicely damp, with no dust.

    We got to Hungerford for lunch....

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    Thats the NSW/QLD border fence you are looking at, viewed from the pub (above)....

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    This is what the new D606 looked liked 1000km into the trip....

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    We had planned to take a few back roads and property tracks from here, but everything was shut because of the swollen rivers, owing to the the high rainfull in the North of Queensland.

    Instead we hit the main roads towards Thargomindah.....

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    We got to Thargomindah late arvo. The roads were fast and firm. The scenery was ever-changing. As you can see from above, the roads were sandy-rock, then sandy-sand. From Thargo we made our way directly West to Noccundra for the night.....

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    The next morning we made an early departure for Innamincka; we were on the road by 7am. The route in was very scenic, albeit a bit boring! By this stage I was ready for the rough stuff.... I wanted to be challenged!!

    This is about all I was presented with....

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    After a few hundred K's, we finally made it here to Innamincka. The last hundred K's or so was fun -- we all turned it up to spice the pre-caffeine morning experience up. Al managed to get himself into a scary 110km/hr tank-slapper on the DR, while OFBM and I rode abreast into town for the last 40km, taking advantage of the massively wide roads out here.

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    We enjoyed a big truckies feed and coffee before I led the way outa town, proclaiming I knew the way to Walkers Crossing. Unfortunately, in my eagerness, I led the trio along the wrong track through the flats.....

    Al.... "Where the FECK am I? This joint looks like the moon....""

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    Weather we were on the right track or not, the surroundings were fantastic. I call these these areas clay flood-plains. In the wet they are muddy quag-mires, but in the dry, they look like what I expect the surface of the moon to be like..... there is hundreds of km's of flat, low lying land, but with low lying bushes and skeletal trees..... all between random patterns of sand dunes.

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    And then within 100km, the landscape turns to gibber (rock) plains. The sand dunes are still there (we are generally travelling parallel with them) but the track surface is predominately hard clay with protruding rock, or loose gibbers.....

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    After me getting us lost for a couple of hours (a simple mistake, trust me!!) we must take a break. However it is getting late in the arvo, and we are keen to make Birdsville by dark. We stop here at the intersection of the Walkers Crossing and Birdsville Track to re-adjust earplugs and check our tyres, chains, oil etc.

    The run up to Birdsville is quick and painless. We wind the singles up to a 'sensible' speed for the loose, drifty gravel. Somehow we manage the 130km in well under an hour -- give or take?? :ear

    We arrived at Birdy and set up tents. OFBM and Al set off for the pub to order their steaks and chips early before the busy time. Birdsville is a Mecca for Australian travellers -- it is regarded as a very remote region, but still accessible by the standard four wheel-drive towing a reasonably-well set-up caravan or camper-trailer.

    I on the other hand stayed back at camp for a couple of hours tightening the steering head bearings of the 640, and replaced the air filter with a pre-oiled one, of which I had a couple packed in the rally bash-plate. I also swapped the 17 tooth front sprocket for a 15 tooth one that I also had stored in the bash-plate tool boxes. I wanted to be sure I was ready for our desert departure the next morning!

    Birdsville is right on the edge of the Simpson Desert -- in fact the sand dunes start only 30km out of town. This is part of the reason the town is such a popular destination for many travellers - not only those crossing the desert, but for those that want to dip their toes in -- those that want to just head into the desert proper and experience what a harsh and beautiful environment it can be.

    Once OFBM and Al had changed their front sprockets and air filters, we grabbed some breakfast at the local bakery, fuelled and watered up, and got ready for our depart......

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    OldFat.....

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    Alan....

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    And myself.....

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    In front of us, we had 700km planned to the next fuel stop. It was mostly sand dunes. We had tents, sleeping gear, food, water, petrol, spares, tools -- everything for four days of remote travel..... BRING IT ON!!!!!

    Now it is time for me to :snore

    I will post up the next installment soon!

    Cheers, Dan
    #1
  2. LaOutbackTrail

    LaOutbackTrail Certified Smartass

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,061
    Location:
    Denton, TX
    :lurk
    <input id="gwProxy" type="hidden"><!--Session data--><input onclick="jsCall();" id="jsProxy" type="hidden">
    #2
  3. wachs

    wachs just passin' through

    Joined:
    May 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,955
    Location:
    Tumalo, Oregon
    cool bikes! awesome country.
    #3
  4. carmima

    carmima All Orange :-)

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,957
    Location:
    Northern Rivers, NSW
    and about time too young fella - lookin forward to a read tonight :thumb
    #4
  5. GuiltyParty

    GuiltyParty drifter

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    318
    Location:
    London
    about freakin' time!

    half a bottle of bourbon down and the start of an epic RR :clap
    #5
  6. jtb

    jtb Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,493
    Location:
    Hawkesbury NSW Australia
    Eagerly awaiting more :thumb :thumb :thumb
    #6
  7. lentil

    lentil King of the Dad Joke and Senior Status Legume Super Moderator

    Joined:
    Sep 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    13,372
    Location:
    Not Gunnedah
    Nice Work Danno!!

    Looking forward to the rest!!
    #7
  8. FatBoyCrash

    FatBoyCrash Buckle up SpankY!!

    Joined:
    May 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,252
    Location:
    Kelvinator Victoria
    Bugger!!! I SO want to do the Hay River road... stop teasing me!! Hurry up!:D:D
    #8
  9. MymoJoe

    MymoJoe Ride Ride Ride

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,523
    Location:
    Fernvale QLD not close enough to the desert
    :lurk more!!!
    #9
  10. LC8TY

    LC8TY must......find........fuel

    Joined:
    Dec 25, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,369
    Location:
    Carnarvon, Australia
    +1 :lol3
    #10
  11. Dr AT

    Dr AT Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,019
    Location:
    maffra, vic
    :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
    looking forward to this, and thanks for doing the research so I know what to expect next year.
    #11
  12. Oldfatbeerman

    Oldfatbeerman Enroute to a PUB

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,007
    Location:
    Lake Macquarie , NSW, Australia
    I am going to let Dan tell the whole story as I was only there for about 1/4 of it , I will post up the photos I took with a brief caption to let you all know where they were taken .

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    Awaiting Als arrival at the Port of Bourke Hotel Car park , 2 Shiney Pumpkins :lol3

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    While we Waited for Al , we went over the road and around the corner to have a look at the Wharf on the Darling River .

    [​IMG]

    Crossley Engine

    There is a display near the wharf of a working Crossley engine that has at various times been an electricity generating engine in Sydney , a power supply engine for an Allowrie butter factory at Coffs Harbour and did finish up on a property at Narromine I guess as a power supply engine for some time before being restored and put on display here at Bourke. It is a big fourstroke oil burner producing 124 bhp at 260 rpm .

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    Al and Dan on the Hungerford rd Nth West of Bourke

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    Dan On the Hungerford Rd , look how firm and smooth the road is here , definite evidence of recent rain and grading .

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    Dan is such a nice , considerate fellow , when we arrived at Noccundra Billabong to set up camp he thought the trees looked like they needed watering so he took it upon himself to do just that , the evidence above is conclusive . :lol3

    More to come Later
    Alan
    #12
  13. nevgriff64

    nevgriff64 .

    Joined:
    Nov 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    20,712
    Location:
    Melbourne Australia
    Always look forward to a ride report from you Danno.. :clap :clap :clap
    #13
  14. edgy

    edgy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    526
    Location:
    Gtown,SA
    Makes me wanna get out there!!
    #14
  15. Pickled Amnesiac

    Pickled Amnesiac ex Fishbulb....

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,251
    Location:
    Oberon.... home of the.... pinetree?
    at 830 in the morning??? you ARE hardcore!!! :rofl:rofl

    keep it coming Danno... im liking this!!!

    fish
    #15
  16. RockerC

    RockerC Fuck Piece & Quiet

    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    194
    Location:
    Lake Maquarie, East Coast Australia
    I was starting to think that all Aussie bikes had been put to bed for winter.

    This is looking great gents, I'm in

    Subscibed :thumb
    #16
  17. Oldfatbeerman

    Oldfatbeerman Enroute to a PUB

    Joined:
    Dec 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,007
    Location:
    Lake Macquarie , NSW, Australia
    In the Desert


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    Eyre Creek Bypass Track
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    Dan on the Eyre Ck Bypass Tk
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    When we got back to Birdsville these guys came into the camping area , later I got to talk to them , they had ridden KTM 530's and 450's from Birdsville across the French line to spectate at Finke on a supported ride ( supported by their Parents in the 4X4's ) but on the way across the F 250 truck had issues with the tray coming adrift from the chasis so they came back to Birdsville via Oodnadatta , Maree and Lyndhurst , which is for the most part a dirt super free way , boring as hell on those bikes I'd imagine , arses like stone too I'd think , glad it wasn't me:eek1.
    [​IMG]

    I was running short of time and had some issues to deal with so went home from Birdsville when we returned there , this above is Sturts Stony Desert Where the Walkers Crossing track goes through it ,THE most desolate and remote place I have experienced. Just small rocks and sand as far as the eye can see !

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    Same pic with less cropping.

    That's all I have .

    Cheers Alan
    #17
  18. pops

    pops Long timer

    Joined:
    May 15, 2007
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    1,890
    Location:
    Stirling North South Australia
    :clap
    #18
  19. DANNOj

    DANNOj Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,176
    Location:
    Perth, Australia
    Great thanks for filling in some time with your great shots Alan!

    Now where were we? Ah yes..... JUST about to head into the desert.

    We left the bakery and hit the 35km of dirt to get out to the start of the sand dunes. Tyres were dropped to about 12psi (oops! my front was already at 12psi -- I must remember to check them more reguarly :lol3)

    Excited? MY WORD! Just the thought of heading up that first dune gives me butterflies in the stomach!! Riding a fully loaded bike, unsupported through the Simpson Desert is one of the most favourite things in the world I like doing! Sand dune after sand dune - testing concentration, skill, fitness, courage (courgae to keep the throttle pinned coming up the dune despite your fear telling you to back off!).

    This was Big Red Sand Dune, the first of about 1100 if you were taking a route directly West:

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    [​IMG]

    Oh yeah!! We're here!! I was wetting myself with excitement....

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    That orange Pelican case on the back of my bag is the Sat Phone. We hired it from Birdsville Visitors centre -- they are an agent for Mt Dare Hotel, which is 550km on the other side of the desert. Why have I got it starpped to the back? Because I didn't know it was going to come with its own suitcase, and did not leave enough space for it anywhere else!

    [​IMG]

    I roared over the next dune and parked to wait for the others. OFBM made a quick call on the UHF radio that he was stuck. The dunes do not go straight over -- they often turn at the top, and can snake around a couple of times, make it VERY difficutly to turn the direction of our fully loaded bikes (remember that bit I was saying about needing to keep the throttle on -- that keeps the front wheel light, and moving -- no throttle, no go!!).

    I waited for a bit.....

    [​IMG]

    And then Al came, so we walked back up to see if we could help....

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    Oops!! So close to the top....

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    OFBM has dug himself a hole!!

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    We had a quick group chat on the best way to tackle the sand -- and it wasn't long before OFBM had mastered the technique, commenting that it may have been 20 years since having ridden the real soft dunes like this. Sand legs - CHECK. Here we go again....

    [​IMG]

    We knocked over another 20km or so, with only a couple of little lay-downs, and before long we got to the Eyre Creek Flood-plain. There has been a lot of rain in the last months up in the North of Australia, and the water flows south through the desert, through Eyre Creek, which flows into the Warburton Creek, which flows into Lake Eyre. Lake Eyre is a huge inland lake in South Australia, which is usually just a dry Salt Pan. This season it has reached 68% of its capacity. It covers over 9000 square kilomtres!

    Greenery abound....

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    I wanted to ride out and take a photo of the bike on this, but I visions of getting bogged down to the axles, and three mud-caked riders taking hours to extricate it!!

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    This track wound its way North for 30km, because Eyre Creek itself is too deep to cross as the normal place. Fantastic riding, and it was something else to be in the middle of the Australia Desert, yet surrounded by some much greenery. Check out the contrast of the red dunes behind the green trees and grass.....

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    This is Adventure riding folks!! It doesn't get much better....

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    The flood-plain is not between only two dunes, it spreads for a few, and we had to cross a couple before getting to the Eyre Creek crossing....

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    There it is -- EYRE CREEK....

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    It was fairly fast flowing, and over 40m wide in some areas....

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    And then we came to the shallower area where we can cross....

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    At its deapest point, the water was well over my knees -- in fact it was half way up my thigh a couple of times (note: I am a short guy!)....

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    After reading about OziMick drowning his 640 here a few weeks earlier, we opted to dismount, and push the bikes accross. We were too far from home to be taking any risks! After this we crossed another dune, and there was more water on the other side that we had to skirt around.

    These photos do not do this area justice. The sight was simply spectacular. To be riding through here was a feeling I cannot describe....

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    The boys agreed!!

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    The track was so fun to ride. We barely got out of second gear as it twisted and turned its way South-west, making its way back to the main QAA line that would take us out to Poeppel's corner.....

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    After a while we left the rich greenery behind, and the track opened up to some higher-speed twin sand ruts. In fact it was barely sand -- more like a coarse bull-dust. Maximim concentration was needed to keep the bike moving in these ruts. Generally third gear, 3/4 throttle, and standing on the pegs the whole time so you could weight the bike through the corners.

    I was having a ball!! And so was Al, until he rode through this deep, powdery section of dust, and eventually lost so much speed that the little DR was bellied out -- bogged and going nowhere!! (we alll had a laugh :rofl)

    [​IMG]

    As you can see I was on camera duty....

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    Another few km's on, Alan had a big stack -- he lost the front wheel in the sand and went for a face plant. Here are some photos reattaching the screen to his helmet after picking the bike up -- see him smirking....

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    Before long we were back on the main track. It was about 45km from the creek crossing back to the track....

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    We were straight back into the dune crossing. You do start to get a bit of a groove out here -- dune after dune, up and down -- you get plenty of practice to fine-tune your technique!

    Oh hang on?

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    What are they doing back there?

    Oops-a-daisy.... the little blue DR has stopped again!!

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    I walked back to get some pics.... we all love pics afterall!!

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    The easiest way to get it unstuck is to lay it all the way over on its side, fill in the wheel hole with sand, start her up, and have two people push it over the crest.

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    And off we go again....

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    We pushed on for another hour with little hassle. The dunes had become closer together, and often instead of having a firm dirt base between them, it was a winding sandy twin-track. I love this stage of the QAA line, because of the challenge of having to pick your way up and around the dunes, as opposed to a full-throttle straight run.

    It was around here that we met Hein on his 990 travelling East. Hein is "Gimme2" from this board. I was aware that he was going to be around the area, but was still excited to see him right here, aboard his massive tanker!! What a task! He had travelled the French Line, which we did last year. I bet it was no walk in the park keeping that hugh Kato moving!

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    "ONWARDS" he points.... "THIS WAY!!"

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    We pushed on ourselves. It was getting late, and a couple of soft dunes caught us by surprise. I stopped to help OFBM pick his 640 up after losing the front on the down side of this soft one....

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    I was ahead, and waited for 15 mins while the boys struggled a couple of dunes back. We all decided to call it a day. 200km had taken us over six hours.

    I love the long shadows and dark colours of the afternoon sun....

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    Camp for the night....

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    It had been one of the best days riding I've had in ages. I was on top of the world! We collected some fire wood, set up tents, and settled in for the night. The temperature dropped to around zero during the night.

    To be continued....
    #19
  20. ADV-Wes

    ADV-Wes I'm not lost....yet.

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    177
    Location:
    NE Victoria (Aus).
    Awesome report mate.:thumbup

    :lurk
    I have GOT to get out there!!!!:tb Anyone got a late model 640adv for sale??!!


    Wes.
    #20