Snow/winter riding information

Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by Dysco, Sep 21, 2004.

  1. NYKTM

    NYKTM Been here awhile

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    I guess can studs are cheaper but the rally studs 13mm are about 150 for two tires, they let me use the gun free.

    Drilling, studding is a painful adventure, dying after 40 studs really.

    Always better off buying the tires studded


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  2. Don Coyote

    Don Coyote Long timer

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    I meant to say i could only find the Altimax RT43 at first, not the Arctic with pockets pre-drilled. You ran the Arctic without studs in it?

    Do they not make CTs like a 195/55 [<edit:typo] or similar? I thought tall and thin was good as a snow tire...
  3. Don Coyote

    Don Coyote Long timer

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    I've seen some for half of that used (or might come across one at a garage sale, like the guy in the video last page, for $20). Are they pretty universal in operation? I might promote myself to a citizen...
  4. randyo

    randyo Long timer

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    tall and thin is good, a 195/50 is not taller than a 205/50, it's 10mm shorter that may be acceptable but doubt you'll fine one in a 17", especially in winter tread

    yes, I ran the rear without studs when I was running the car tire
  5. NYKTM

    NYKTM Been here awhile

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    You can dream about finding one at a yard sale lol you want......


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  6. Don Coyote

    Don Coyote Long timer

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    I know Dysco has promoted electric visors here and i finally decided to give one a try now that Scorpion makes them for the AT-950. I was comparing that helmet to the E1 last year but nixed it because the peak didn't actually keep sun off the visor and the visor had no anti-fogging to speak of. With the electric visor fogging shouldn't be an issue (actually it is frosting on the E1 and every other helmet i've tried that is the issue), plus the peak will at least keep the $100 visor from being scratched so easy while not on. Previous double-pane snowmobile visors pretty much turned opaque from scratches after a month or so.

    Anyway, anybody happen to know more details about how these operate? I found a thread on a snowmobile forum mentioning these visors in general use 1.5 amps. At close to 20W, it would be nice to be able to turn it off while riding in case my other heated gear is straining the VR. I asked Mike at Warm & Safe about adapting it for use with one of his controllers. At first he said he knew nothing about the design, then i sent him a picture and he said it was designed for full power only and not to connect it to his equipment. I certainly have less experience dealing with electrical equipment like this, but don't see what there could be about this visor that would harm it or prevent it from functioning if run through a potentiometer. Could someone explain it further? Has anyone tried anything other than a straight hookup with one?