So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. Yukon Ho!

    Yukon Ho! We can go ANYWHERE! Supporter

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    Like others, after warping my front OEM rotor way too easily, I replaced with a Braking Wave (aka Galfer?) floating rotor. 8,000 miles later no warping. Happy braking.
  2. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    I should probably look into a new disc as mine has seen better days so will bear that in mind. On top of the rubbing noise I made the mistake of buying sintered pads and my front break squeals like a chorus little hamster devils every time I brake.

    I think the bmw is just upset because I got her a younger, orange, angry little sister
  3. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    :lol3

    The novelty of that will eventually wear off having to change the oil every time you look at it...

    :rofl
  4. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    Haha yeah i can imagine, I'm enjoying tinkering around with it and learning a bit more about bikes though, stuff I wouldn't do on the bm as it's way more complicated and my primary form of transport!
  5. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    If you have problems with the front brake binding then get the wheel up in the air and see what it is like turning it by hand. Should be able to more or less spin it by hand. If it really sticks you could take off the top cover of the reservoir and see if there is too much fluid in.
    Or press the lever whilst opening the bleed niple a bit and bleed some out.
    If you do that make sure you close the nipple before releasing the lever or it will suck air in, which you don't want.
  6. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    Ok that would make sense, I bled them recently when the last set of pads were low.

    I partially solved he problem today, I undid and re tightened the bolts for the front rotor as the first time I did them up I held the front break in (that's what I do with my mountain bike).
  7. The Spanish Biker

    The Spanish Biker The Essential Companion to Biking in Spain

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    Ha ha, seriously Erik, what is the cost of the fairing? Is it the same one that you made for that lovely Dutch girl a few years ago or is it a new project - can't see it on your web page.

    Simon
  8. Dorito

    Dorito Dreamer and Doer

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    Am I Sunflower Yellow? :D

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  9. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    On my way to work this morning :D

    [​IMG]
  10. purdsam

    purdsam Adventurer

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    Houston, TX
    Speaking of front brake issues, I took my X out of the garage for the 1st time in a couple months yesterday and noticed the front brake required a lot more force than usual to get stopping power. The travel on the lever is short and I tried to get the front abs to activate in my subdivision from rolling in neutral at 35mph and couldn't. Do I need to bleed the line? New fluid? Thanks in advance.
    --Sam
  11. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Have you tried riding it a bit with the front brake sligthly on ? To clean the rotor and pads. If that still doesn't work there might be one piston stuck.
    Take the caliper off it's mounting, Take the pads out, clean the pistons as good as you can with a soft small (tooth)brush and brake cleaner. Then carefully push the piston back in. ( there's a tool for that as you have to get it in evenly)
    Then clean some more and stick it back together, put the pads in and squeeze the brake a few times to set the pads on the rotor.

    Cheers, Ard
  12. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    Spare parts clearance.

    I have an almost new EBC front rotor MD650LS that I need to sell. $90 + $10 ship continental US. It only has about 200 miles on it and is almost like new, nothing wrong at all with it. PM me if interested.

    You won't find one cheaper anywhere...

    Why? Well I bought a 2nd set of wheels from Muddyrabbit awhile back and got this rotor but ended up getting one of the new contour rotors from the EBC rep directly at a good deal for helping them straighten out their part number confusion. It's really just a matter of looks, they both work the same.... See this thread for details about EBC front rotor part numbers.

    [​IMG]
  13. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    My fix for the oil return hose. This seems to have come up a lot for others recently as well. I figured I'd post how I fixed mine. No big deal.

    I think the covering on mine was worn by my pants and then cracked and made brittle by the heat. I wonder if everyone's is cracked beneath the cloth covering and if you haven't worn the cover to expose the rubber then you just don't see it. So maybe it should be replaced proactively?

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    My fix was a length of 0.25" (inside diameter) fuel hose and spring hose clamps from my local Ace hardware store. I then wrapped it with self-fusing silicone tape which is rated to 500 degrees, for a bit of protection from heat and rubbing. I personally chose spring hose clamps because this is not a high pressure line and they are removable in the field (as compared to pinch clamps):

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  14. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    I was repairing a problem with my Rekluse clutch so while I had it apart I decided to update my '07 with the new improved '09 clutch side cover with the steel reinforced hole. As it turns out, it is possible (probable?) that the worn side cover hole may have actually caused my Rekluse clutch issue. But the Rekluse is a secondary issue...

    All I wanted to do here was to show what I found when I replaced the side cover. Below is a summary, I have all the gory details described on my web page here:

    LINKY: Replace the '07 clutch side cover with improved '09 design

    First, is the throwout "rack" hole in YOUR cover worn? The best illustration is to show what I've found by inserting my throwout "rack" into my original '07 cover with 22,000 miles on it VS. a brand new '09 cover. You be the judge:

    <iframe src="//www.youtube.com/embed/z73h_QcsxEc?feature=player_embedded" allowfullscreen="" height="360" width="640" frameborder="0"></iframe>

    The often referred to PUMA US-22898888-02 as I understand it, was a means to address replacing parts that were destroyed in the clutch disengagement assembly, and included a rather long list of parts. However, it was not clear to me from others' posts that the original PUMA included the replacement of the actual clutch cover itself.

    My point is that if you don't have any destroyed parts (trashed teeth on the throwout "rack" or the operating shaft "pinion" or worn clutch discs, etc, then WHAT exactly is required to be replaced?
    I'm not a person to cut corners but I know my clutch disks are fine and most of the other parts were NOT available in the US anywhere, and I was trying to get my clutch back together quickly. Plus many of the part numbers have changed on the '09 (vs. the '07) yet it is clear at least some of these parts have not changed (like the needle bearings), so what parts are mandatory? Here is what I decided:

    In my case all I wanted to replace/fix was the minimal amount to get the new clutch cover installed. At a minimum you need 4 parts: the cover, the cover gasket, and 2 needle bearings to press into the new cover. The other parts can be transferred over to the new cover (also wise to buy a new operating shaft seal, ordered from Germany, but you could reuse your old one).

    These first 2 parts I was able to source from US dealers:
    11147700331 The '09 XCountry cover $162
    11147700194 Cover gasket (or you could try to pry the rubber gasket from your old cover if desperate)

    The next 2 parts are the needle bearings, but I was NOT able to source at any BMW dealer in the US... Luckily tbarstow pointed out to me that these are common metric sizes (shown on the fiche) and are able to be sourced anywhere, in fact I was able to even source the exact same INA brand needle bearings at Amazon for $5 each:

    HK0808 -- size: 8x12x8mm (Amazon.com)
    HK1210 -- size: 12x16x10mm (Amazon.com)

    Old '07 cover on left, new '09 cover on right:

    [​IMG]

    The HK1210 bearing from INA in my original '07 cover:

    [​IMG]

    Installation:
    I used another trick from Tim, I froze the 2 new bearings in the cover for a few hours, then I took the new cover and ran hot tap water over it on the OUTSIDE of the cover in the areas where the bearings will be installed.
    Then to install the center bearing I used a proper sized socket and the operating shaft, and then tapped it in smoothly, making sure it bottomed:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    The only step where I had an issue was installing the circlip onto the slot in the Operating Shaft. There was not enough clearance near the circlip to install it.

    The cover has a milled out area near where the circlip is located on the shaft, but the groove on the shaft for the circlip was not exposed enough to allow the circlip to easily be installed. I decided the shaft could be seated a little further into the hole so I ended up carefully grinding a tiny bit off of the bottom edge of the Operating Shaft until I could install the circlip correctly. Just be sure you don't grind too much off and make sure that the pinion gear teeth still don't touch the top surface of the center bearing so they don't interfere.
    The first picture shows after I ground some material off of the bottom of the Operating Shaft, and the 2nd pic shows the circlip successfully installed:

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    (I wonder if an '09 Operating Shaft would fit better than reusing my '07 shaft?)

    Install the shaft seal and the cover is ready to install. The torque on the cover bolts is 10 Nm (88 in lbs).

    Install the Clutch Release Fork Lever and clutch cable and adjust the cable tension. It is best to have the Lever be as close to 90 degrees perpendicular to the cable as possible for maximum throw range to disengage the clutch. Meaning it will be close to interfering with the clutch housing cover but not quite.
  15. plumber mike

    plumber mike Highdive Deepened

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    Matt- that thing is falling apart:rofl J/K

    I sold my X to a local gal:cry:clap

    .....nothing else will compare, except the smile from a young boy who now has a bike of his very own and a wife who has a title to a fine luxury suv.

    I have a little dough left to find a cheap dirt bike to follow around on:ear:earThat x held its value nicely, despite my every effort to bastardize it.

    I'll stick around and hopefully offer assistance, probably not up to the level of Snooker, but I did get fairly intimate with my X.
  16. jeventures

    jeventures DEVR Adventures

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    +1

    I bought this bike for 70% commuting and 30% dual sport camping. Best urban assault I've owned so far.
  17. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    Hi Mikey, good to hear from you. Just like Drone and Geoffster, you can't resist following along with the exploits of the good ol' X bike, even when you don't own one anymore! :lol3 :lol3:freaky

    Did you keep your Action Packer box so you can strap it onto your next bike?

    [​IMG]

    :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl :rofl
  18. plumber mike

    plumber mike Highdive Deepened

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    :lol3:lol3:lol3
    Oh how I must have embarrassed you.
    .........they are not just for KLR's anymore.

    It's not that I didn't love,love,love my X. I almost backed out of the sale, but the gal was so excited and I knew I wanted to get my whole family on two wheels. (Speaking of.......you have any 50cc or OSETs collecting dust?) XR bits too as long as I'm asking:wink:






    I have a 26mm socket that Drone gave me......I'd like to pay it forward. If someone needs it, hit me up.


    I'll get some current pics of my action packer full of Bavarian bits in case someone has need.

    Who knows? I could pull a Geoffster and get another one down the road
  19. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Last week in Spain :D

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  20. Johnnyboxer

    Johnnyboxer Long timer

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    Like it:clap