So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    Different mounting points on the XMoto. Search ADV and you can find the specifics of converting the XMoto to XChallenge and vice versa.
  2. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Control levers for the BMW G650X series-

    Copied from XCh thread by gqelements


    If anyone is looking for levers replacement levers (brake, clutch) thought i'd share my experience.

    Bought a set of both (clutch / brake) in "V parts' brand from eBay Seller Moto Maneas (based in Greece). Price was less than half of OEM, delivered to Canada in under a week via standard shipping. Incredible! Clutch side (the only broken side in my case) bolted right on and the spare is now under my seat, just in case.

    What caught my eye was the list of what seemed as compatible models, listed bellow the x-challenge on the packaging. below is the typed out 'compatible' list, note that i have not tried it, just documenting what's on the package as hopefully it will help someone source another non-OEM alternative (although at the price at Moto Maneas, it almost does not make sense to look for this from other bikes):

    Clutch Package (used and verified to fit the G650x), listed Aprilia Tuono 125 03-04, MX125 Super Motard, RS50 Tuono (03 04), ETX 125, RS 125 (96-05) Pegasso 650 (97-00), Pegasso 650 I.E. (01-04), Yamaha TT 600 RR (98-02)

    Brake Package (not tested but looks the sames as the OEM currently on the bike) lists Moto Guzzi Breva 750 (03-07), Nevada 750S 750 (10-), Nevada Aquila Nera 750 (09-), Nevada Classic (09-), Nevada Classic 750, V7 Cafe Classic 750 (09-), V7 Classic

    Perhaps someone could/should add this to the first post that indexes all the compatibles and 'upgrades/etc'

    Hope this saves someone some $$$ and time.
    Attached Files:
  3. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Control levers for the BMW G650X series-

    Copied from XCh thread by jdwhite



    And if anybody is looking for style and want to spend (a lot) more money can also watch for these: (edited for XCo application)
    http://www.bs-motoparts.com/en/BMW/G_650_Xcountry/2009/2314/brake--and-clutch-levers-985.htm

    But read the post Pampax wrote about it first:
    http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/g650x-challenge-rs.664876/page-5.
    It seems that the clutch side may not be a direct fit. In his case a sleeve was the wrong size.
    I wrote them an email inquiring, but they only stated the fact that there were no complaints about that. Maybe because it´s easy enough to fix.
  4. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    That pampax thread is a good read.

    I made the mistake of creating an account with schefflemeier last night.... There goes next months paycheck! I had to buy some rear wheel spacers as I saw mine had considerable scoring when I took the rear wheel off.


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  5. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    Here's a couple of pictures from tonight's ride, the first decent weather in weeks!!

    [​IMG][​IMG]


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  6. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    Just been checking the valve clearances, looks like I'm in for some work.

    The intake was nice at 0.0030" / 0.0762mm

    But the exhaust was tight at 0.009" 0.2286 in mm (just below the 0.0010 / 0.254mm limit) - Bummer.

    One thing I found odd is that at TDC as indicated by the lines on the cam sprockets, the lobes all point outwards.

    I'm sure on all other bikes I've checked the clearances were done with the lobes pointing upright. The REPROM even shows the lobes pointing upright.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately the zip tie method doesn't work for removing the cams. As I got further I found that the cam chain is far too tight for that.
  7. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    You have it going correctly. There is a shortcut to remove the cam that involves pulling up on the tensioner and slipping the chain off the cam sprocket.

    The factory tended to set the exhaust valve under the decompression lever on the tight side to insure the lever would properly relieve the compression. If your bike is one that falls in the decomp lever recall (early run of the Chinese motors), now is a good time to replace that part. It's easy-peasy. I have some pics in an old posting.
  8. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Did you lock the crank ?
    Also: I'd say there's something wrong with your specs or you're mixing things up.

    Straight from my Reprom:

    Valve clearance, inlet valve
    engine cold max. 35 °C
    0.03...0.11 mm

    Valve clearance, exhaust valve
    engine cold max. 35 °C
    0.25...0.33 mm

    To get the cams out: Don't forget to take out the tensioner (big 24 mm bolthead at the rear left of the head hidden by the oil tank.) There's some spring tension !
  9. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    I did manage to remove the cams without messing with the chain tensioner. It required a bit more force and wriggling than I've seen on one of the youtube vids, but it worked.

    I had a 2.70 and 2.65 in the exhaust side. In my haste I forgot which was which. Normally I place them on a sheet a paper with a diagram, but I was distracted.

    I picked up a 2.60 from a Yamaha dealer (BMW don't open on Mondays), and figured I'd use that, and the 2.65 and that should give me 0.28mm clearance. Not quite. Need to take the 2.65 out again and get another 2.60- the left side exhaust had tightened up more than though.

    By tomorrow I should be an expert :)
  10. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    The XMotos run different size rotors and the fork tube ends are different for the calipers.
  11. leafman60

    leafman60 Long timer

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    Yes, cold clearances are -

    Inlet = .03 -.11 MM

    Exhaust = .25 - .33 MM
  12. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    Yeah. BMW decided to open today, put two 2.60mm shims in the exhaust side to give me .28 mm and .30 mm.

    The inlet side was good already at .07 mm on both.

    Of course I put everything back together and the thing doesn't start. Engine seems to turn over a bit strange. On the starter it does two rotations then stops then two again, almost like there is low battery, except I've got a fresh Odyssey PC310 in.

    Will have to remove the airbox cover and investigate again tomorrow. Not sure what it is.

    Cam chain was zip tied tight to the cogs, so I don't think that moved at all.
    New plugs inserted and coils put back and connected. White coil on the outside
    All connectors were reconnected.
  13. BikerBobber

    BikerBobber Trying to get lost

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    Hope you turned it over by hand before pushing the button. ....

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  14. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    No why? I already had the spark plugs in.
  15. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Did you lock the crank before taking it apart ? Did the markings line up properly ?
  16. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    No I didn't lock the crank I used this technique i.e zip tie the cam chain to the cam gears.



    Yeah all the marking line up in that the lines on the cam gears both line up nicely.

    Could be something as simple as a cross-threaded plug, or one of the caps not on right. At least I hope.
  17. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    I think they're getting at the crank having moved whilst the cams were out, so although the marks line up at on the cam gears the crank and therefore piston may not be in the right place. Turning it over by hand first is a fail safe way of checking, if you hit the button and the valves are in the wrong place at the wrong time then it could get expensive...


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  18. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    Maybe. I don't see how it's possible given that the plugs were and the bike was in gear. The timing chain was still attached to everything and tensioned. Still could be worth a check if have problems tomorrow.

    Now how do you find TDC without using the cam gear markings? These bikes don't have a TDC marker down on the crankshaft bolt do they?
  19. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    I put together links to lots of valve check / adjustment tips here: LINKY
  20. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    Finally got to do some camping trips here in Colorado, so here's some pics...

    First trip was attending the Horizons Unlimited travelers meetup near Breckenridge, CO.

    The night before the meetup started I camped a night solo on Georgia Pass at 11,500 feet, a very easy road up from the south side:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Side trip up higher than the pass.
    [​IMG]

    At the meetup I went up some challenging passes with a couple other riders.
    First was Webster Pass, it had a rough but not steep shelf road up to a snowdrift right before the top. The steep road in the distance is past the top of the pass and is one way going downhill actually, I did not do it:
    [​IMG] [​IMG]

    Next was Mosquito Pass, the second highest pass in Colorado at 13,186 feet. It is known to be very rocky and tough. I can do rocky and I can do steep, and I can do loose rock. However when all 3 occur at the same time, well I opted to turn around as this hill was very loose. If I can't ride up it standing on my pegs then the chance of breaking something goes up dramatically. There was not a single line on this hill that was not loose... We had to help a fellow rider when he got stuck with street tires - he was a wild man!
    [​IMG]

    After the rally on the way home I rode up towards Rollinsville Pass above the Moffat Tunnel where the train goes to Winter Park:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I figured out I could put my empty MoJavi bag on first then put my Great Basin bag over it, in this way I could have my MoJavi bag available for day rides after I arrived at base camp and removed the GB bag. Plus it made my toolkit always readily accessible. Worked great actually.