So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    That's where I found the Youtube video. I've used your site a lot over the past year.

    I don't think there is anything on finding TDC without using the cam gear marks though. That would allow me to double check the alignment.

    It does turn over by hand without the plugs in but not that easily at least not when spinning the rear wheel (though it wasn't easy before I touched anything).

    In a high gear spinning the rear wheel it's easy until the lobes point upwards then the decompression lever locks. Unlocking and everything moves again. Stiff at first then falls round easily, until the next stroke. Pretty much the same as in the video here:
  2. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    I think your best bet is to take it apart again and to lock the crank first.
    Take off the valve cover, take out a spark plug, take out the soft plug on the right hand engine cover so you can crank the engine by using an Allen key. Find TDC, lock the crank by taking out the bolt circled in this picture. It has an M8 thread.

    [​IMG]

    Set TDC as best you can and look through the hole using a light to see a slot in the crankshaft gently moving the crank with the Allen key. (Yes that's a bit akward as that's on the other side...)
    Now find or make an M8 bolt with a pointy tip on it and thread it in the hole where the other one came out, locking the crank at TDC. Just do it up finger tight.

    The slot is circled in this picture to give you an idea of what it looks like.

    [​IMG]

    Now set the timing as per Reprom or as described elsewhere.

    NOTE: Don't forget to take out the locking bolt when you've set the timing !

    You'll have found TDC when the crank is at the locking position and the lobes of the cams are pointing outward.
  3. c-m

    c-m Long timer

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    Sure enough the timing was out by maybe 1 tooth.

    I used dutchgit's method to find TDC and set the cams. I used the bolt from the subframe to lock TDC.

    Fired up instantly once I'd finished.

    No telling if there is any lasting damage. Hopefully not. I did take the buckets and shims off and have a look, but you can't really inspect the valve stem from there.
    Dutchgit likes this.
  4. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    Good man glad it's fixed!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    Two days ago I was reunited with my bike after 2.5 months of abstinence.
    Man, it was gruesome!

    This was taken on the first ride...
    The photo looks totally natural but it was actually tuned up a bit by a friend. I don't know if you can spot it....




    [​IMG]

    Could you help me ease my mind?...
    I noticed the other day that the front end seems very light and if I wobble the bars lightly it's very very easy to create wheel wobble.
    There is also a slight wobble by hand movement while shifting gears.
    But otherwise it runs fine.
    So I don't know if this is normal and just my paranoia or should I do something about it?
    Dutchgit likes this.
  6. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    How worn is your front tire?
  7. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    It has couple of thousands of km but the knobs are still quite "meaty".
    I'd say it isn't even half way worn out.
  8. ModMan

    ModMan Been here awhile

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    Has anyone put LED indicators on the bike and have a recommendation for them? A rear lens is broken on mine so half tempted to go LED. I realise the relay is in the instrument panel so I will need a resistor(s) but it's more of a case of finding ones that look decent and fit well. E-marked or equivalent would be good too in order to keep the local MOT man happy just in case.

    I put a Mitas E-09 on mine and found similar results. Only about about 70mph though does it get a little concerning. On road tyres it was fine.

    Suspension was done by Hyperpro a week or two before I fitted the tyres so assume it was just the knobblies. I even searched here on ADVRider and found people reporting the same so I have just lived with it.
  9. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    Great picture.

    Is the front tire properly inflated?
  10. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    Yup....

    I guess I'm going to do the same as ModMan did and just live with it :)
  11. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    I'd make sure your handlebar bolts fully tightened too.
  12. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    I'd take the pressure in the tire down a bit. I run mine quite soft. Don't know what pressures though as I just press them with my fingers and judge it by that.
  13. mikecbrxx

    mikecbrxx Been here awhile

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    Look at the Rizoma ones. Expensive but they look good and come with resistors. I fitted them to mine and found i only needed 1 resistor each side for things to work properly...instead of 1 on each indicator.
  14. ModMan

    ModMan Been here awhile

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    Thanks Mike - I saw them on a BMW and they look very nice. Not cheap like you say bit perhaps worth it.
  15. Alt_Red

    Alt_Red Adventurer

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    So I found out at the weekend that it's not my helmet that's noisy. I stood up at 65ish and it was dead quiet sat down behind my screen and it's horribly noisy.

    So I did some research on the adv forum of course found this thread and got to work!

    http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/windscreen-disgust-again.210188/page-81

    First I did a bit of drawing:

    [​IMG]

    Then once I was happy I got the dremmel out:

    [​IMG]

    I've never mastered the use of the dremmel before but managed to work quite well with it. Finished the cut edge off with a file then some coarse sand paper before moving onto wet and dry.

    [​IMG]

    Once I was finished I sized it up before then cutting out a 'naca' shaped hole for a carbon fibre duct:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Again finishing it with a file and a few grades of sandpaper[​IMG]

    I finished the cutting this morning before work and have yet to mount it properly or test it.

    Also the mounting surface for the carbon fibre duct is flat whereas the screen is curved so I've got to remake the cf bit, that's not a problem as it didn't turn out perfect anyway.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  16. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    Great job!

    What was the original screen?

    Do post how you like it now.
  17. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    Today I discovered this leak.....

    [​IMG]

    I just had a new radiator and coolant installed...
    Is this some normal drip that just accumulates on the skid plate or am I losing coolant?
  18. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    You are losing coolant. Check the weep hole for coolant, then check the coolant overflow and hose connections.
  19. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    See if it's bled properly. If there is still air in the cooling system it can overheat/overpressure.
    Undo the litle bolt on the right side of the head, take off the radiator cap and fill untill coolant comes out where the bolt was, do the bolt back up and close the radiator cap, then fill the expansion tank to the "max" level.

    Squeeze the hoses every now and then while filling the radiator.

    Go for a ride checking for fluid every now and then. If you're lucky, the drip has stopped.
    If not you need a new waterpump kit.

    Oh and change that gear lever or you'll need an engine strip down if you drop it on that. Get a cheap steel one from a Yamaha XT500/600 or such.
  20. keepshoveling

    keepshoveling DNF

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    Seconding this - went for a ride this weekend on some big (for me anyway) rocks and had I not replaced the gear lever I would have been walking and swearing and swearing and walking and then just swearing forever and ever, amen.
    Dutchgit likes this.