So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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    try scrubbing it with a stiff bristle brush and a solution of dish soap and white vinegar. That should eat through a lot of the corrosion (which is most likely alkaline in nature).
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  2. NSFW

    NSFW basecamp4adv Super Supporter

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  3. K12Pilot

    K12Pilot Without a Care

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    possibly this weekend ))

    other than a good bath and a scrubbing fuel flush and maybe a quick push of the button to see if it’ll run as is. I probably won’t get to this until next year for the spring I have too many bikes on tables right now that I need to do some serious work to
  4. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    I have one; not touratech generic the one you find on fleeBay/Amazon for $15-25. Does it work? Well sort of.. it takes wind off the chest but it isn't sufficiently high there's enough getting in under helmet and I am 5'5". Stock windscreen is too short for spoiler make real difference and it is too flimsy it will crack soon as you get off smooth pavement you would need to take top part off.

    Anyone knows if R1200R has the same hole spacing? I need sturdier taller windshield.
  5. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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    Probably will need a battery too. Batteries Plus carries a couple in the proper size. I would think that an oil change would also be a good idea.
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  6. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Mighty Max Battery 12V 8.6AH 190CCA Gel Battery Replaces BMW G650X HP4 S1000R S1000XR Brand Product
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FY28XJW/
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  7. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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  8. K12Pilot

    K12Pilot Without a Care

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    Ohh, the battery is the easy part ;).. Ima go through every system & component, all fluids. The fuel system should be pretty rank by now (
  9. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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    That's what I'm doing with my barn find too. I got it running first and now doing all the rest working my way front to back.
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  10. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    The 2009 X-Country seat height is listed as 800/825mm with 800 in lower position.. so how do you put it in lower portion?
  11. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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    There was a ride-height adjustment on the 2007 and 2008 (black models) but I'm not sure that it was carried over to the 2009.
    (2007-2009) NOT FOR VEHICLES WITH LOWERING (CODE: X499A) :
    01 33 53 7 696 859 SPRING STRUT, REAR - L=337MM 6.98 1 $1160.42[​IMG]

    (2008-2009) FOR VEHICLES WITH LOWERING (CODE: X499A) :
    01 33 53 7 716 848 STRUT, LOW, REAR - L=320MM 7.34 1 $1160.42[​IMG]

    Shorten the rear shock: Place a milk crate or some support under the engine. Remove the bolt that secures the lower shock eye to the swingarm and pull the shock free. Shorten the shock by loosening the locknut and threading the lower eye all the way in. Make sure the lower eye is parallel to the upper eye and tighten the locknut. Reinstall the bolt securing the lower eye to the swingarm and retorque it to 85nm.

    Note - it might not be necessary to remove the bolt - I haven't done this myself so I'm not sure. Loosen the lock nut and turn the height adjustment nut - then tighten the lock nut. The threaded portion of the shock mount is below the damping adjustment knob. This adjustment has nothing to do with the shock preload.

    ride height adjuster.PNG
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  12. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    @cpallen thnx! just stepped out and looked my '09 has adjustment and it looks like it was in lower position at some point and forks were lowered to match rear drop but then bike was put back in high position. Not that I need it but nice to know in case if I give to daughter at some point.
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  13. King Rat

    King Rat Been here awhile

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    Not been on this page for a bit. I am a bit of a X Country fan having discovered them. i don't thrash it and tend to use the torque to gain more miles out of the tank. I am running 16t front 47t rear sprockets and she pulls like a train having removed the catalytic exhaust, shed 18lbs (8.3kgs) of weight and fitted the stainless Scorpion can, which allows the motor to breathe and the exhaust runs much cooler - it is allowed to flow! most I have got is 92mpg loaded with gear, that was down through the small lanes on the Welsh borders. I had a job in Hereford and went down the back lanes rather than the boring multilane highways - who the hell does that on a motorcycle? :D

    I can get 130 miles before the light comes on even on high speed cruising at a steady 75-77mph. That extra tooth makes a big difference to giving her longer legs. If you need the ability to pull up a steep gradient, just go down a gear and run up, it isn't going to be for very long.

    The longest day I have done was this April just gone, 769 miles, again mostly backlanes looking for treasure hunt clues and taking pictures of them. It is an event that takes place each April in the Southwest of England run by the Somerset IAM (Institute of Advanced Motorcyclists). I set off from home about 05.30, arrived at the start reception about 08.40 and got signed in, received my route card and instructions with the clues on... off I set. This requires old fashioned map reading, if you try to use a Sat Nav, you will get taken all over the place, most of it doesn't have mobile phone signal coverage either! It is designed to test proper navigational skill, not who can spend the most money on fancy gadgets and knows how to push the buttons! the route takes you all over Exmoor, Dartmoor, Bodminmoor and down to Lands Ends. Then back to the start reception to sign in - I got back at 23.20, received my certificate then had another 40 mile ride to my bed for the night! The bike sang like a bird and the fuel economy was great.

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    I am thinking of going back and doing it again this year. It will be a different route.
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  14. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    @King Rat you had me going for a moment with 92mpg until I realized that you are Brit and it's imperial gallon still impressive.

    So on the way home in traffic last night bike started stalling died on me at least a dozen times. Was fine before that. What could cause it?
  15. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    It doesn't; it can't.

    They use air temp sensor trick to fool ECU into thinking it's cooler and make it give more fuel. This only works during transitions or while warming up when system is in open loop mode. As soon as it gets into close loop ECU will use oxygen sensor to adjust mixture back to normal
  16. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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  17. ERU

    ERU Adventurer

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  18. CarstenB

    CarstenB Been here awhile

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  19. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    K12, was the bike fully submerged in salt / sea water? I repaired a bike (not an X) that had been submerged for a few hours. Time submerged has a bearing but here's what was required on my project.

    The engine oil was drained immediately after retrieval as was the fuel system. Cylinder was flushed and fogged. Bike was washed with clean water and put away for a short time before additional repairs. Upon rebuild I found no water in the forks or wheel bearings due to good seals. While water did get into the suspension linkage and steering stem these were also fine as the grease prevented any damage. All bearings were replaced regardless since the bike was disassembled.The carburetor did develop some internal corrosion which was cleaned.

    The electrical system suffered the most damage. Any connector pin or wire that had constant battery power was seriously corroded or destroyed. No doubt due to the conductive nature of the water and electrolysis. Cdi, starter and stator were fine, starter relay, RR and signal relay had to be replaced. While I cleaned and tried to save the switches I eventually replaced all of them as they were intermittent and unreliable.

    My advice is to look very carefully at all of the electrical connectors and wiring harness first. This will likely be you biggest repair item cost. You can use generic K&S switches for the handlebar. The ecu, fi components, harness or connectors and dash are harder to source and potentially cost prohibitive.

    Bearings, seals and mechanical components are relatively inexpensive and easy to fix. Unless there is internal engine damage this is not to difficult a project. Mostly time but you'll have to decide how much money it's going to take and if it will be worth it to you in the end.

    And please don't think I'm trying to dissuade you. My wife will be happy to confirm how I'm more than willing to put way to much money into a project that is worthwhile to me even if not to anybody else.
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  20. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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