So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    BMW ones are single lip rubber without spring and cost much more. The ones in pic (National/Timken) nitrile, double lip spring loaded..

    @tbarstow Agree if pump is leaking you are better off replacing shaft; if shaft is worn new seals won't last. Mine are not leaking replacing them as preventive maintenance step.
  2. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,752
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ

    Yes, there are a number of things that Hans and Franz messed up like this on the X bikes.

    Either deal with the 1/8th turn to get the bolt out or cut the steering lock bracket off of the frame.
  3. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    How do you remove left side engine cover on 650x to avoid frame getting in the way? IMG_20191205_140310.jpg
  4. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,752
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ
    Unfortunately you have to remove that piece of the frame to access the engine cover.
  5. Red Sand

    Red Sand Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    391
    Location:
    Atlanta area
    Mega-thanks!

    Mine arrived today - won't be able to install it for a week, or so because work is crazy right now

    Ride safe, ride often, enjoy!
    :)
    scorpion exhaust, 01.jpg
    NSFW and Zeus99 like this.
  6. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    Bummer.. not looking forward to doing it; if I can't press out that hollow pin on water pump rotor will just leave seals as is until they are actually leaking.
  7. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,668
    Location:
    Panora, IA
    Removing left frame endpiece.PNG
    cyclopathic likes this.
  8. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    Do you have one for other side (sorry got confused with #1)?

    (Also is there a PDF for download? thx)
  9. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,752
    Location:
    Mesa, AZ
    Buying the Reprom is worth it if you are going to do the maintenance on an X yourself.
    cyclopathic likes this.
  10. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    So I took a look and in order to get to this point (as in pic) you have to unbolt swingarm.. what kind of yahoo designed this???

    Regardless I was able to drive pin holding pump rotor and replace seals. They didn't leak and at 11.5yo/22k the coolant seal was fine and the engine side was wooden; would have gone trouble free for a good while. Will see how long replacement will last.
  11. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,668
    Location:
    Panora, IA
    Sorry I couldn't get back to you with the picture of the other side. @tbarstow is correct that is from the BMW G650X Rep ROM, which I am not sure is still available. Luckily I had made a copy of the DVD before I sold my X Challenge last year. It's pretty easy to make pdfs and screenshots of the steps and individual details. Here are the steps listed. Each item is linked to a detail.

    Replacing drive gear for water pump.PNG

    It's pretty useful for me even though the info is pretty scattered - you definitely need a Windows computer/laptop, and maybe printer too in the workshop if you want to follow along in the documentation. I'm not and never have been an automotive mechanic in any way, shape, or form so I have to follow the steps. I also have an old copy of the 'Honda Common Service Manual' which covers motorcycle theory and some specifics in a generic fashion. Using this method is not as good as some You Tube videos (or a @JVB Productions DVD) but it works for me. As my hero Dirty Harry once said - "a man has to know his limitations" and so I probably would no longer attempt to do what you are doing. I haven't even changed my own oil on my GSA yet. I don't have a garage right now and my bikes and tools are at my sister's house for the winter which is an hour away. It's taken me a month just to change tires and rear brake pads on my new-to-to me X Country.
    Red Sand and cyclopathic like this.
  12. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,668
    Location:
    Panora, IA
    I had some free time yesterday to work on the X Country. I put the wheels with the new Mitas E-07s back on, and replaced the rear disc pads. Along the way i cleaned up the wheel spacers, which showed a little wear grooving but no gouging or anything like that. I will order some for the next tire change. I'm not sure if I should use the OEM aluminum parts, or the stainless steel Scheffelmeier Metall parts. Also cleaned up the rear hub cush drive and rubbers. I have some new ones, but again - the existing parts showed some wear on the cross-pieces and on the face of the casting but it was all smooth so I'll save the new rubbers for the next tire change. Sprockets and chain looked fine, maybe even new - there is a 14t front (Steel SuperSprox) that I need to look closer at when I change the oil just to make sure I don't have problems down the road. I have a 15t sprocket from an X Challenge on order, plus the original OEM 16t that came with the bike. The 14t should work out fine for my intended purpose which is not going to be cross country (get it :jack?) touring.

    The biggest change that I made was to reset the suspension to the high position. I didn't actually measure them, but the front fork tubes must have been dropped 1-1/2 to 2" inches. The fork caps were almost touching the handle bars, all the way down to the limit of the taper on the tubes. The Rep ROM specs 3 mm and so that is where I set them (1st index line down from the cap). I also turned up the shock length. I couldn't find much documentation on this and I was afraid that I might unscrew the eye completely so I only moved it around 3/4", which might even be too far. Not my picture, but about like this:

    RearShock Adjustment 02.jpg

    It now leans waaaay over on the side stand. I can touch both sides on the balls of my feet, lower than my lowered X Challenge was. I am not ready to attack the steering head and swing arm bearings. Maybe next winter. Next up instead will be fluids (brake and oil, maybe antifreeze) - spark plugs - air filter, and checking the idle air actuator. Doesn't seem to want to idle cold. Then I have some accessories to install. It's going to be a long winter.
    Red Sand, Zeus99 and cyclopathic like this.
  13. Red Sand

    Red Sand Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    391
    Location:
    Atlanta area
    Sounds like a lot of fun tinkering with the machine!

    I too have a few projects but I plan on riding mine on "good days" (when I'm not working and when the weather is bearable)

    Ride safe, ride often, enjoy!
    cpallen likes this.
  14. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,668
    Location:
    Panora, IA
    I have a couple of other bikes to ride on the odd nice winter day. Although I have a lot still to do on the X Country, it is at least now safe to ride!
  15. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    Checked valve clearance.. could not be better intake .06/.08 exhaust 0.30/0.28mm. Put iridium plugs

    Discovered gremlins: main ignition coil was loose on spark plug no contact; had to shim it with beer can strip.
    Dutchgit and cpallen like this.
  16. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,804
    Location:
    Герма́ния
    I had that too. The steel spring clip inside it rusts away over time.
    I've used some copper wire strands.
    cyclopathic likes this.
  17. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    I just did this:



    No need to remove anything I used bungee to hold water pump lid away. The tricky part was to drive pin out and flush/fill up coolant after; you have to warm engine up and top off to purge air. Also when you drive internal seal in make sure it's deep enough and weeping hole isn't covered.
    Glidedon and DGR like this.
  18. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 26, 2003
    Oddometer:
    1,668
    Location:
    Panora, IA
    Riveting video! Thanks for posting!
  19. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    As was mentioned in posts earlier for complete fix you want to replace seals and shaft and it's better to get Viton seals as they won't harden from temperature as fast as rubber. I got nitrile seals (National $4 at Advance autoparts) and shaft had some minor wear so considered full disassembly unnecessary. Shaft would run $30 on fleeBay and rebuild kit is $70 and a friend of mine carried a set with him on South America trip
  20. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,157
    DGR likes this.