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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.
You'll need a fork seal driver. Either store bought or home made.
I will have the job done by a mechanic, I don't have the tools or space to work on this myself unfortunately. I'd love to. One day if I get a proper garage...
By the way, here is a small write-up I did on how to make your custom 11.5W oil (or whatever viscosity you want) here :
Because I don't want to buy the BMW oil (for availability reasons and also because I have no idea what it is (very little specs) and like to know what fluids I'm using)
Yes I have ordered the SKF KITG-45M-HD ("Heavy Duty" which I read is better for our bikes).
Looks like a solid plan ! I'll first get the SW-MOTECH crash bars as I need them anyway for upper protection.
And then see if I can get the Scheffelmeier plate, or I'll use the BMW crash bars instead.
Thanks for the pointer to the Scheffelmeier plate, I never seen it mentioned before.
BMW turns with the wind and I care very little what make they recommend as it changes depending on what global deals they are able to achieve. When I bought my bike BMW recommended Castrol. A few years later they recommended Mobil1 and I think they now recommend Shell. When I asked the local dealer to me about recommended coolant color a few years back they recommended yellow Motul (or at least that's what they used at that shop).
Just follow the specs they recommend and worry less about brand name (can mostly be found on crossroadz too).
I used Putoline GPR 6 3.5 shock oil (yes) in my WP forks since that oil had the highest viscosity index I could find. I started at 140mm air gap and added a touch later after test riding to ca 130mm and that meant that each leg took exactly 500ml. Very handy since the oil comes in 1000ml bottles.
This looks like an extremely thin oil, wouldn't it reduce the damping of the front suspension ?
Another question for everyone. I need to replace my front brake disc, which is wrapped. Because there is just one front brake disc, I assume it's heating more and more subject to wrapping, so I am considering using a floating disc, which are a bit less subject to wrapping. Is there any issue with that ? As the bike originally came with fixed rotors.
I am looking at this one :
Galfer Wave Rotor Front DF663FLW
With the associated pads :
Galfer HH Sintered Front Brake Pads FD172
(my other bike, S1000XR, has sintered brakes and I'm happy with the feeling and handling)
Maybe, not sure. It is thin. It is also designed to be used in a shock though, so can't be that bad in forks.
My understanding is that a high viscosity index means it works better with repeated suspension compressions with less foaming and pressure build up etc. I noticed last year I had a less (rarely any) pressure build up compared to someone I rode with that had the same forks. I could be wrong.
The air gap probably makes a larger difference in the stiffness/ softness as the air will compress while the oil don't.
You mean brake warps or wraps?
If you suspect warped disc because of pulsing in the lever check that the brake pad pin isn't notched and prevents the pads from moving freely to and in particular fro the disc.
Sorry I meant warping. English is not my native language and sometimes I do funny mistakes like this :)
I have a severe pulsation when braking especially at low speeds, enough to compress/decompress/compress/decompress the front fork.
The bike has a cheap chinese front rotor and it was used in the mountains by the previous owner so I suspect they didn't use engine braking enough and overheated the front disc. My assumption is that the rotor is warped, because this pulsation is speed-dependent (the lower the speed, the slower the wobble happens, and the more intense it is).
Because we have only a single front brake disc, I want to use only the highest quality components. I was tempted to use a chinese clone of the front brake disc ($60 on AliExpress.. vs $210+) but I won't do it, it's life saving equipment and a single point of failure
Plus I tend to ride the bike a bit harder than what it's supposed to be
My wife has the same Galfer disc. She's very happy with it.
I have a standard disc and it works fine for me.
Take off the disc and lay it on a flat surface, like a mirror or vindow pane to check if it's warped.
I've never used floating discs, but I use good quality ones from Armstrong.
I had what sounds like the exact same sensation and it turned out to be a notched brake pad sliding pin. I serviced the calipers with new seals too and cleaned everything real well.
I wish I could. I would technically but I don't have the space for it nor the tools (no stand). I'll have to bring it to a mechanic. But thanks for that, maybe I can avoid changing the disc.
[EDIT] Ended up changing the disc. The previous disc was indeed warped.
The Galfer wave rotor is worth its weight in gold! Put a disc guard around it so you don't bend it hitting rocks!
Great idea !
Do you know where to find a disc guard ? Anything specific for your bike or is it generic ? I found a few but it seems like they don't fit.
I had a small oil leak underneath the engine. I thought it was leftover oil from my oil hose leak, but no.
Turns out a few bolts were very loose (yellow arrows), one could be unscrewed by hand (red circle). Oil drops were visible from this screw.
I think over time and with vibrations, they get loose. I think I'll add split washers.
Picture with the lower plastic engine guard removed
You need to adapt a generic disc guard.
Don't use lock washers, just torque down the fastener per the Reprom.
Replace that shift lever for something that does bend when you drop the bike on it or you'll be looking at some VERY expensive repairs.
Wow ! You mean the left foot lever ? (not the clutch lever on the left hand)
On my picture above, it is folding, isn't it ? It has an axle
Just making sure I understand your suggestion properly so I can apply it.
I don't want to have to open my engine like this !
[EDIT] All answers to my questions HERE
While I can't remove the wheel, I just realized I can remove the brake caliper and inspect the pin.
What tools do I need to do that, beside standard metric tools ?
Is there anything I need to know beside standard disassembly/reassembly ?
I am aware sliding pins need silicone grease and that must not go on the pad or disc obviously.
Ummm....can't recall sizes exactly. 12,13 or 14mm on the two caliper bolts? Don't think it's as large as 15, and think it's larger than 10,11 though.
You'll need I use a pair of pliers to take the security "split pin" (it's called something else....the 'R' shaped piece of wire) out and a punch and hammer yo knock the pin loose/ out.
So I had my kickstand switch disabled yesterday.. with the help of friendly rock trying to surprise me at the bottom of the puddle. Spent about an hour at roadside cutting a bent out of shape piece of protective metal which was preventing kickstand to open while my /patient/ riding partner was holding bike. Good thing he had hecksaw in his toolkit as it wasn't even on my radar before yesterday
Anyone points me at kickstand switch how-tos? thx
Anyone need some rubbers?
I have an EBC front disk for sale from my spare parts bin. Quality brand at less than half the price of the fancy Galfer. It was never abused or crashed and almost new. LINKY