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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.
Yes, baking in an oven will help mitigate it.
Mechanical removal of the zince plating is way less harmful, as you're not making a cloud of vapor to breathe.
Good articles, but also understand that hydrogen embrittlement is a diffusion based process that requires time and a high concentration of hydrogen. You then have to have something impart enough energy to make hydride compounds with the base material.
Parts that are quickly dropped in an acid bath to strip zinc won't diffuse enough hydrogen into them. Plating takes hours, as does pickling.
When you compare the diameter of a hydrogen atoms to the interstitial spacing of iron atoms, hydrogen will go wherever it wants, it just needs to have enough energy to do so.
I have under my seat:
- 8mm + 10mm wrench
- 13mm combination wrench
- Torx T10, T25, T30
- Hex 3mm, 4mm, 5mm, 6mm
- Philips screwdriver
- Spark plug tool
- Knippex 86 03 150 wrench
Those are the sizes I have come across so far. Should be good for road-side repair.
For holiday trips I also take the following in a small bag:
- 1/4" mini ratchet with 100mm extension
- 7mm, 8mm, 10mm and 13mm sockets (you need a 1/4" 7mm with extension for air filter access)
- Leatherman Surge
- Tire pressure tool
- 90 degree valve stem extension
- 2 of each type of fuse
- Microfiber cloth
And of course WD40 and duct tape.
Just got a 2009 x country for my wife and she loves it! I do have a question she was riding it back to our house and my wife was going 65 ish for about 45 mins. It was also like 90 degrees outside. When we get it in the garage it looked like it had leaked a little oil. I'm guessing it's just from the motor being really hot. It doesn't leak after it cools down. Thoughts?
Where's the leak? The oil return to the tank might need an upgrade after 11 years.
It appears to only be on the left side and it looks like it runs down the exposed piece of frame. I haven't taken any of the plastics off yet.
As man said there is a return hose to oil tank right above
We talking about this kinda cloth looking one? It is damp so I'm guessing this is where it is coming from
That is correct. That's a rubber hose with a cover on it. Looks like yours needs to be replaced.
Yep I agree. Not being familiar with these is this something that's best to get from BMW or will an auto parts store have something I could just cut to length?
I think we're looking for part #7 correct?
Fuel line will work just fine.
And make sure that it doesn't touch anything on its route.
I put some spiral wrap around mine to make sure.
Well the old hose was pretty cracked on the oil container side. 25 dollars later and it's fixed!
Happy you got it fixed, I had this exact same issue. I detailed the process here, just a few pages behind :
I am considering ordering a very high quality hose and quality clamps so that I never have to do this again (the seller of my bike did give me a box of parts a few days after I fixed this and surprise, there was a piece of new BMW hose inside, so I'm pretty sure it's been already repaired at some point before) :
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/strato111.php STRATOFLEX 111-4 hose
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/breezelinerhexscrews.php 9406H clamp with protection for the tube
Quick question everyone. I want to do a valve check. BMW quotes 3 hours for this. Is this reasonable ? Looks like a lot...
That is reasonable. You have to dig into the engine and get everything else out of the way to do it.
Another question : I can't figure out if we have tubeless or tubed tires.
I think my current tires are tubeless. However spoked wheels generally come with tubed tires. I just bought the bike and didn't touch the tires yet, so I'm not sure what's inside.
Do our rims have the safety lip that allows for safe installation of tubeless tires ?
Are they airtight at the spokes ?
Tubes on our XCo's and XChallenges. There is no proper way of making them tubeless.