So we've all heard/seen the 650 xchallenge...let's see your XCOUNTRY!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Olas, Dec 3, 2007.

  1. cpallen

    cpallen Nearly Adventurer

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    I have heard of situations where a crack develops in the hall-effect crank position sensor, which causes an intermittent failure with warm/hot engine. Not sure if this would even apply to the G650X motor. The reprom says resistance of the ignition inductive trigger should be 190 - 300 Ω. IDK where you would measure it.
  2. tbarstow

    tbarstow Two-wheelin' Fool Super Supporter

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    Have you checked the guts of the ignition switch? The solder joints get cooked from the current draw through the switch.

    The easiest way to check this is by popping the headlight cowl off, unplugging the ignition switch, and inserting a jumper in the connector.
    Zeus99 and Dutchgit like this.
  3. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    So I have replaced OEM sprocket with JT (JTF402.16) and there was no noticeable difference in fore/aft wobble between it and used OEM it replaced. JT appears to move more when not fixed because the ends of slits are beveled so it does wobble from side to side more when not fixed.

    I'm guessing there was a bad batch or perhaps the difference between different year shafts..
    Gravel Seeker likes this.
  4. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    The lack of spark indicates the BMSCII is not powered up & as others have stated, most likely due to he side stand switch not providing earth to the Motronic Relay to power the BMSCII

    I have not had the opportunity to play with the X to confirm it but the indication that the BMSCII is not powered up is that the coolant temp lamp in the dash does not light when ignition is turned on, this is as per the GS. Checking for the momentary operation of the lamp avoids wasting time flattening the battery trying to start.

    Wiring diagrams show the operation is as per the GS & it is safe to connect all 3 wires at the side stand switch as all it does is either provide earth to power the Motronic Relay or send the earth return wire of the Motronic Relay to the Neutral Switch to get earth from there when the bike is in neutral. The clutch switch over rides the Side STand & Neutral switches to provide earth to the Motronic Relay

    The Kill Switch wiring is also as per the GS & it is on the power side of the Motronic Relay so it cuts power to the relay when in off position
    Zeus99, Gravel Seeker and Dutchgit like this.
  5. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    When bike is ready to start the fuel pump will prime up; you can hear it when you flip kickstand up.

    @Zeus99 clean contacts on kickstand that maybe enough.. or try jump wire. Other common place is clutch switch I had it act up on me last ride; it fixed itself by pressing clutch and wiggling lever a few dozen times.
    Zeus99 likes this.
  6. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    My prime suspect is the side stand switch.
    I took it apart and I can see that the little metal thingy that is rotating with the side stand used to make the connection between different wires is sitting on a rubber ring that is totally worn out in some places and the rotating metal thingy that is sitting on top of it is far from straight, it's all wavy.

    It seems to me the because of the combination of the two the side stand switch is losing connection.
    I noticed that sometimes it's not enough for the switch to be in the right position because I still wouldn't hear the fuel pump starting. Sometimes I needed to press on the switch by hand to get the contact.

    Also, I was measuring if I have electricity coming to the direct coil with the switch in up position with a multimeter, and I had.
    But later when trying again I couldn't replicate. My suspicion is again on the side stand switch.

    One other thing I find strange and don't know if it's normal.
    When I connect the battery on a voltmeter it's showing around 13V, but when I connect it to the bike, the dashboard voltmeter is showing only 11.9-12V.
  7. Zeus99

    Zeus99 Been here awhile

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    Thanks Wayne, that's a great breakdown!
    BTW, the coolant temp light turns on when I turn the ignition.
  8. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    The voltmeter on the dash is not known for its accuracy !
    cyclopathic likes this.
  9. Gravel Seeker

    Gravel Seeker Old, growing older.

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    If nothing else, jump the switch to confirm it's faulty. Unless you are really afraid of riding off with the stand down just bypass it permanently and save yourself the agony.

    My Touratech IMO computer always displayed exactly 1,0V lower than measured on the battery regardless if engine was running or not. Not a problem as long as you know it's a feature and not a fault :D
  10. WayneC

    WayneC Long timer

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    Thanks for confirming BMW configured the Coolant Lamp to operate as per the 650GS, the fact the Coolant Lamp comes on with ignition tells you the BMSCII is powered up so the side stand switch would be out of the list of culprits causing your problem

    Simple fault finding without diagnostics to confirm a side stand switch fault can be taken further, when ignition is turned on & Coolant Lamp does not come on, turn off ignition, pull clutch in & turn ignition on, if the Coolant Lamp then lights a fault in side stand/neutral switch or diodes is confirmed
    cyclopathic and Dutchgit like this.
  11. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    Thanks WayneC ! That's really helpful !

    Cheers, Ard
  12. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Yeah the switch is a culprit.

    As for battery check it with hand voltmeter; dashboard is known outlier.. if you see similar behavior on voltmeter and battery was charged it is dead you need new one.
  13. snooker

    snooker AttitudeIsEverything

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    Just a heads up...

    I finally decided to part out my XCountry so I'll be posting a thread on it in a few days, details there. Please don't PM me and ask for any info just yet but I do have some goodies people will want. Thanks for your support.
  14. Dutchgit

    Dutchgit Completely clogless

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    End of an era Matt. Did you get closer to a decision on what next ?

    Cheers, Ard
  15. computer_freak

    computer_freak Been here awhile

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    Just fitted it. Ordered without the logo as I prefer a clean look. Custom engraving was not a problem.

    Plexiglass/acrylic, not polycarbonate so not advisable for the hardcore enduro rider. But plexiglass will let more light through and is easier to clean. Which fits my use perfectly.

    IMG_0647.jpeg
    IMG_0629.jpeg
  16. skybo1

    skybo1 Been here awhile

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    any of you ever try putting a Givi PL188 rack on an X country or Challenge- its designed for a F650GS or G650GS.
    I can modify slightly.

    OIP.jpg Givi_PL188_BMW_F650GS_G650GS_Pannier_Telaietti.jpg
  17. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Does anyone know what is the width of rear rim? Specs list front as 2.50"-19" but it has 2.15" stamped on rim. Rear is listed as 3.00"-17" BTW
  18. computer_freak

    computer_freak Been here awhile

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    @cyclopathic If you need me to measure anything just let me know.
  19. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Thanks I just don't wanna take MotoZ GPS off still have a few K left on it.
  20. cyclopathic

    cyclopathic Long timer

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    Finally got kickstand switch fixed.

    The switch had an unfortunate encounter with rock and as a result alignment tab on switch sheared and it was misaligned relative to kickstand position. As a result bike would randomly die while moving; would not shut engine on kickstand down, randomly refuse to start, etc.

    You need 8mm socket to remove switch, clean it, realign and screw back.
    DGR likes this.