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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by fast1075, Aug 11, 2018.
At lunch I worked on the temporary fuel tank.
Helps with wheelies too!
Put some beer labels and show it off.
Got me a small clam shell Weber Bar-B that looks something like that.
Starts hard sometimes in the wind.
It's fun when the fumes build up too much and goes BOOM...when it does fire off.....just sayin.. so you know if you hear a BOOM...
Had an idea. If I make a spacer that fits under the reed cage with a port in it, it should see crankcase pressure. I have a company a few blocks away that does precision water jet work. I'll stop by and find out how much for them to make one. All I need for a template is a reed cage gasket, and I have one of those.
If I had a mill, I would do it myself. But no mill.
dont necessarily need a mill...... need a flat plate about 1/2" thick, a set of transfer punches, a bunch of drilled holes and a file. a vixen if you wanna take off the material nice n smooth. bonus would be a bandsaw, and or a scroll saw, would save time swinging a file.
but yes, in the intake tract on the port side of the reed valve should have enough pulse.
How di it work before you got this scooter ?
I built it from parts from two completely different scooters. The scooter the engine came from had the gas tank mounted under a cowl behind the seat. The frame I used had a GY6 50cc 4 stroke motor. The pulse pump worked fine with the 4 stroke 50 with the tank in the floor board.
I got the temporary test tank hooked up today. It is amazing how an engine can run when it gets enough fuel. Sounds sweet when it gets on the pipe. Cruises nicely at "around town" speeds. I installed a nice phone holder and used a "speedometer" app. I wound it up for s short distance. Went 42 mph. The CVT definitely needs some tuning. The carb is working ok. Want to make sure it is "safe rich".
Headlights quit working. Hope it didn't lose the stator. Definitely going to figure out the fuel pump thing. Not going to leave that top box on it. But for sure, the gas tank does not have a venting problem, it was all along non functional fuel pump(s). I ordered a 3" x 1/2" x 12" piece of T-6061 from McMaster Carr to build a reed block spacer to see if I can get the pulse pump to work right.
I had located a speedometer set in MPH. Came in yesterday. Today I installed it. Of course the wires had to be repinned. The only one in the right place was ground. I was afraid the tall bar risers would be too tall for the stock type speedo kit. Looks good to me. Raining on and off today, so my test ride was short. It is semi-accurate (ish). Will need a slightly shorter speedo cable at some point.
MotoGP race weekend, so I might fiddle with it some more after the race. Getting there slowly. I bought some new clips and screws for the body work. Thinking about buffing the existing finish and use some strategically placed decals for the "survivor" look. The new phone holder works great. I will add a USB power supply.
After the race (Go Rins!) I stuck the battery box back on and went for some more miles. 20 miles this time before I had to dodge a thunderstorm (spring in Flatistan). Runs better and better. This time I closely compared my new speedometer to my GPS. For all practical purposes it is dead nuts on. On a level spot with no head wind it went 44 mph. Goes back on the table tomorrow to get some maintenance and work on the CVT. I ordered a new belt and a set of 4g Dr Pulley sliders. That should help it off the line quite a bit. It doesn't suck taking off, but better will be better.
I have all the black plastics off, so they get attention before they go back on.
Pulled the CVT apart today. Better than I had expected. The belt was an odd combination of utterly worn out yet in no observable danger of breaking. The parts were not nearly as grungy as expected. Variator has some wear, but it is getting reused. The belt was so worn that it hadn't been anywhere near the top of the variator face in a long time. It already had 4 gram rollers, not badly worn.
The belt was supposed to be 16.4 mm wide. Barely made 13. It was floppy loose. I wet sanded the variator faces and buffed the boss to a nice finish. Belt and sliders come in tomorrow. The bare bones concept shines with ease of service. I had the thing apart in maybe 5 minutes, going slow. The cover wasn't even stuck.
Still all up in the air over the fuel issue. The plug is the light chocolate color I was looking for. I have a spare reed block and manifold coming so I can examine the vacuum port idea without possibly ruining the operational parts. Electric is also an idea if I can find a pump small enough, without excessive fuel pressure. Any ideas? I had thought of a Honda Ruckus pump, but it isn't straight forward electrically.
i have/had a gilera runner 180, (it tried to kill one to many times) it had a very tall tank then ended under the floor boards, it used a small head tanker above the carb and that was feed by a pump.
Can't remember where the vacuum feed was tho, sorry! still that layout ought to work with a very small electric pump.
Digging a little deeper into the CVT. Someone had worked on tuning it in the past. The driven face/clutch has a "red" (stronger than stock) spring to help take-off. My parts will not make it today due to a routing error. But should be here tomorrow. It is resting comfortably on the bench for now.
After further consideration, I am going to solve the fuel issue by using a K&N Model 81-0400 electric fuel pump, rated at 1-2 psi. I should have it in and tested by this weekend.
To freshen the black plastics....Black Kiwi will buff to a nice lustre and re-black them pretty well
As in KIWI shoe polish?
yep...it really does work great...
also cheep furniture polish....
My newest fuel pump came in today! I still plan on solving the "how to make the pulse pump work on my engine" thing. Just Because! I figured out a place on the reed cage to drill a port, which has to match up to a threaded hole in the manifold so a fitting can screw in. I hit rubber when I drilled on a stock manifold. However, an aftermarket manifold is entirely aluminum. So, one of these days I will run across one and try it. I have some 1/16' pipe fittings and a 1/16th" taper pipe tap (left over from my nitrous oxide dragbike days) that should fit in the area needed. No crankcase shenanigans required.
Anyway, it gets the K&N pump. I will power it from my tail light circuit.
Mounted the fuel pump. Just need to pick up some fittings, and wire it up. Fuel tank is back where it belongs. The fuel gauge even works now !