Sorting out my R90/6 (sprouty115)

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by sprouty115, Sep 13, 2017.

  1. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

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    I like the looks of the fairing, I will be interested if it makes a difference with wind management. Those S-type fairing just look perfect on an Airhead, does Flatracer offer a mounting kit or do you have to piece together a mounting kit?
  2. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    The faring kit comes with the fairing, windshield and dash, along with this hardware:
    1 - mounting hardware.jpg
    1 - bolts.jpg

    These are also available, but purchased separately:
    1 - trun signal stalks.jpg
    1 directionals.jpg
    1 headlight trim.jpg

    I will also add that I was surprised by the quality, especially the fairing, which is very solid!
    Jim K in PA, eight90eight and WRC51 like this.
  3. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    If you want just a little fairing the S is a nice way to go. You also get to say "My bike wears a bikini". Makes her sound sexy, no?

    Nice kit.
    WRC51 and sprouty115 like this.
  4. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Anyone like to offer their thoughts on a few more things I'm wondering about?

    1 - The tank is in pretty great shape for a 44+yo bike, but there is one small dent. It's about 3/4" in diameter and about 1/16" deep. Any possibility of getting it fixed without repainting the tank?
    20190516_182228.jpg

    20190516_181803.jpg

    2 - It seems to me the rear turn signal bracket is narrower than what I've seen on other bikes. Possibly cut down by the P.O.? Is that a common mod?
    20190516_182334.jpg

    3 - I'm a bit unsure about the routing of the clutch and brake cables.
    Brake - The best path for the brake seems to be down the center hole of the gauge bracket. But when I routed it there initially it took about 5 rides to wear through the plastic sheath of the cable. So I split a piece of hard nylon tubing and zip-tied it in place. It works, but...
    Clutch - The clutch has a similar problem, but not as bad. It seems to rub on the upper fork brace. So is routed correctly, or am I missing something?
    20190516_182249.jpg

    4 - Rust. I've been pretty good about cleaning the ferrous parts, and most of them look pretty good, but in New England it's a constant battle. any suggestions? Otherwise I'm considering a whipping up a home zinc plating kit (seriously).

    20190516_182348.jpg
  5. bleaknessengine

    bleaknessengine Been here awhile Supporter

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    on my old 90/6, i think my brake cable did not go through the hole but went down towards the left more, making the widest loop i could get it.
    i cut my rear signal stalk short like that to avoid problems with some panniers i had.
    you could maybe make an identical dent on the left side of the tank to balance it out?
    globalt38, Jim K in PA and sprouty115 like this.
  6. Jim K in PA

    Jim K in PA Long timer Supporter

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    Dent = earned scar. Entirely your call, but I wouldn't fix it.
    T/S stalks = cut down. I cut mine about the same. I don't care for the wide set signals, especially without panniers.
    Rust will sneak up on you. Changes to SS or plate the steel, but even the zinc will eventually corrode. Entropy sucks.
    sprouty115 likes this.
  7. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

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    I am in the process of changing bars and installing new cables on my 76 R90. My clutch cable actually went thru the hole in the instrument bracket I think these were the OG cables. Waiting on throttle and clutch cables from Bobs they are supposed to be here early next week, I got the MC cable from a different vendor it is supposed to be for shorter bars but is the same length as the one that I removed. The bike had US bars and I wanted a lower bar so I am not sure this is going to work as the cable going to the MC doesn't have a lot of flex because of the short run to the MC...if that makes sense. I cant tell from the photos if you are using the US bars or did you go with a different bar. EDIT I am in the process of reading your thread on about page 3 I think, thanks for taking the time to post all of this info up.
    sprouty115 likes this.
  8. aptbldr

    aptbldr easy rider

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    What about the paint-less dent fixers?
    Does /6 tank have a filler extension tube, like those of '84 era?
    That tube inhibits the use of the levers employed by the paint-less guys ... don't they?
    sprouty115 likes this.
  9. Disston

    Disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Talk to a paintless dent repair guy. The subject has come up but not often. I think it only works on modern cars with very thin skin but that's probably just an opinion.

    I'd leave it anyway. Original paint. Dent not big enough to force loosing that.
    sprouty115 likes this.
  10. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    View attachment 1686374
    Here's a pic from the owners manual. Note: there's a clip inside the left headlight bracket for the grommet on the brake cable: cable routing.jpg I'd keep the dent and go stainless.
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  11. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Ok, yesterday was beautiful out and so I bailed on the fixing-things plan and went for a 100-mile ride. We've had so much rain for the last two months that I just had to get out.

    20190518_125625.jpg

    While I was riding around enjoying it all I had to time to think a bit, so I decided to take the advice above and leave the dent as-is.

    I also think, after reading all the comments, that I should do a dry-run fitting the fairing, then decide on bars, then sort out cables (in that order).

    And yes, Jim entropy does suck. So I think I'll try the home galvanizing and see how that goes. Though I have to say I'm pretty curious about the baked linseed oil technique...
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  12. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    I had a couple of free hours today so i thought I might see how far I could get with the fairing.

    I knew I needed to install the longer turn signal stalks and I know that involves pulling quite a bit off the bike, but I did it before and I documented the steps so it all went pretty smoothly, including torquing the upper support bracket nuts and the steering stem nut.

    So after an hour or so, I was at this point:
    20190519_144546.jpg

    According to the directions I am supposed to slide the fairing onto the left side stalk.
    20190519_144533.jpg

    Then stretch the fairing open and slip it over the right stalk.

    20190519_144528.jpg

    Except that something doesn't seem right...
    20190519_144546.jpg

    Because, I would have to pull the bottom of the fairing more than - 2"!

    Since that did not seem like it was going to happen without me damaging something, I decided I should send the pics to Flatracer and see what they say...
  13. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

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    sprouty115 the dry fitting for the fairing is a good idea. I wanted lower bars so ordered a set and the shorter cables, I thought I had ordered a set that came on the S90s but the ones I received were way to narrow. So I decided to stick with the US bars ...but I had to order stock length cables. Live and learn. Your bike is looking great.
    sprouty115 likes this.
  14. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    Yes, it is scary to spread it that far! I think you need to fit the eccentric rubber pieces before installation too... zw30.JPG
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  15. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Ah yes, I just checked the installation guide again and installing the eccentric bushing was part of the fairing prep. Thanks, I missed that.
    Screenshot_20190519-161219_Drive.jpg

    Also, you may be right (about how much it has to flex), but I just sent an email to Flatracer to make sure I hear it from them.
  16. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    I think what I'm figuring out is that you just need to sort out the cables by getting whatever works with the bars you want to use.
    WRC51 likes this.
  17. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    While I wait for a response from Flatracer, I had a thought - maybe the fairing has taken a "set"?
    If so, then it might be better to gently ease it back a bit wider, rather than all at once.

    It goes to about 12 3/8" with as much force as feel comfortable applying right now. Let's see how it feels in a few days. If it relaxes a bit then I'll add another paint stick...
    20190519_180536.jpg
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  18. aptbldr

    aptbldr easy rider

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    Consider putting the jigged fairing in a sunny window or in a box with a space heater.
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  19. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Flatracer got back to me this morning - they say it's fine...

    "Our fairing is slightly thicker and stronger than the original (which cracked and got damaged easily) but also quite flexible. You will have no problems spreading the lower ends to fit over the stalks, however, do it gently and slowly and try to spread the load with your hands over the greatest area possible.
    I recently did this on my own 1983 BMW R80 and yes, you had to apply a bit of strength but it went in fine."

    Ok, so with some pre-stretching and a bit of heat I'll give it a go today or tomorrow - fingers-crossed...
  20. Bigger Al

    Bigger Al Still a stupid tire guy Supporter

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    I've always found that stretching the fairing is just fine, and that it needs to keep it's original shape to fit properly. The only things holding the lower portion firmly in place are the turn signal bodies, and they sometimes don't grip with the authority it takes to keep the fairing from rattling. YMMV.
    sprouty115 likes this.