Sorting out my R90/6 (sprouty115)

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by sprouty115, Sep 13, 2017.

  1. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    They stretch pretty well, in my experience. Don't pull both sides out at the same time. Put one side on then pull the other out to fit. It's not bad. Make sure your cables and everything are run prior to fitting it.
    sprouty115 likes this.
  2. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    You know, I thought about it, and then it was getting late...

    I am going to try two different handlebars that I picked up so maybe I'll reconsider and do it then?
  3. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Thanks for that. I'm about to give it a go over the weekend - I'll post back how it goes...
  4. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    And it's on!

    20190523_175957.jpg

    But let me tell you - it took WAY more pulling than I ever imagined to get it to flex out and over that turn signal stalk...here is what I did.

    Step 1 - fit washer on left stalk, then lubricate the eccentric bushing and slide that on. Repeat for other side.

    Step 2 - tuck turn signal wires on both sides back into stalk then fit fairing on left stalk, and sort of align the rubber bushing with the fairing hole.

    Step 3 - grab the back edge of the right side of the fairing and somewhere under the front headlight and pull.

    Step 4 - increase pulling until you almost pull the bike over on its side. Stop just before that happens and think really hard about the fact that you almost pulled the bike over in your yard...

    Step 5 - go get 25yo son and say "sit on the bike and don't let it tip over when I pull on this fairing".

    Step 6 - commence to pulling but stop again as you start to pivot the bike on the center stand. Marvel at how much force it is taking to pull on this ridiculously strong fairing.

    Step 7 - tell son to REALLY hang on, then brace your knee on the front tire and pull with all your strength, this will barely get you to the edge of the fairing.

    Step 8 - repeat four more times.

    Step 9 - brace foot on tire and pull even harder and finally get the fairing over the stalk.

    Step 10 - spend 20 minutes poking at the eccentric rubber bushing trying to rotate it in the hole so both sides are in same alignment. Get them close enough and then give up, realizing you should have lined them up before you started.

    Step 11 - step back and consider for a minute that you have to take it back off, get it painted, then put it all back on. Reconsider whether or not a fully white fairing would look good on your bike. Decide that you're going to just leave it be for now...


    Btw - it didn't crack - this is one MF'ing tough fairing!
  5. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    I agree. I will eventually get it painted, but for now I'm going to enjoy it for a bit.
    20190524_155428.jpg

    Was pleasantly surprised to see that I could get to the headlight with it on (had to replace the turn signal relay and rotate the glass).

    20190524_155343.jpg

    Btw, I also have the rubber trim ring for the headlight but haven't put that on yet. Will probably not get installed until it gets painted if I have to take the fairing off to put it on.
    globalt38 and WRC51 like this.
  6. globalt38

    globalt38 "A Fist Full of Throttle" Super Supporter

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    Have to say though - it looks better than I thought it would white...
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  7. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

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    I am thinking that the US bars would be too high to fit with the fairing. Do you know what bars are on your bike? The fairing is looking great on your bike....
  8. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Yes, the US bars would look very odd and may not fit. Currently I have the Flanders Flat Sidecar bars. If they were about 2" higher I think they would be perfect, having said that, the more I ride the bike, the more I like them, so who knows...
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  9. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

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    Ha ha I have bought two pair of bars and neither is what I want. I have the US bars back on and they are really comfortable but as you said would not work with a fairing, I now have two new bars and cables to work with the lower setup, and of course new cables for the US bars...I am getting pretty good at changing bars and cables.
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  10. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Yup, and I have two more bars to try sitting on a shelf...
  11. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Just finished changing the oil, which turned into quite the adventure: https://advrider.com/f/threads/r90-6-fork-drain-nut-torque.1386527/

    Now I'm in Atlanta for a weekend trip to see friends, but of course I can't help thinking about my bike - so while I'm away maybe someone can help me understand what is going on with my levers/controls - there are different shaped levers on my bike. I did replace the left side (clutch because the perch was broken), but both are suppose to be R90 levers, so...

    20190614_110137.jpg

    20190614_110126.jpg

    Can anyone tell.me which one was/is correct for my bike (mfg date of 9/75)?

    I know it's a small detail, but I would prefer they match. Also I have to decide what to do with the raw metal perch so before I put any time in that, I should get the correct lever(s).

    Edit to add - I also just remembered I may have the wrong grips on there as well...
  12. nobbylon

    nobbylon Long timer

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    Grips are correct, left lever looks correct.
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  13. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    According to the fiche; the plain levers were used to 9/75, and the painted levers were used from 9/75... I've used rattle can epoxy paint on perches. Seems a bit more durable.
  14. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    So is painted the same as anodized? I may end up just matching the finish of the current lever to whatever matching shape lever I end up with.
  15. Big Bamboo

    Big Bamboo Aircooled & Sunbaked Supporter

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    No, it is not. It looks like the perches are not anodized, but the levers are. Anyone know for sure? I have a NOS /6 perch in my hand, and there are areas inside that didn't get any paint...
  16. nobbylon

    nobbylon Long timer

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    The right hand lever looks aftermarket. The blade should be more straight.
    Here’s my 75/6 with original levers.

    AFA98429-2AC1-40FB-9A0A-E6CB04F22476.png
  17. nobbylon

    nobbylon Long timer

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    Look under the lever and it should have the Magura emblem on it.

    5307499E-8CE2-40F3-8D16-1A548BF4D276.jpeg
  18. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    Ah! Will do.
  19. WRC51

    WRC51 Long timer

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    These are my 1976 (10/75) R90 controls that I believe are stock to the bike. The housings were painted black originally I repainted them black when I had them off. My levers look as though they were anodized black originally but it has worn but I can see traces of black on the levers and is now a silver shade .

    IMG_0866.JPG IMG_0867.JPG IMG_0870.JPG
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  20. sprouty115

    sprouty115 Long timer Supporter

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    So both levers are made by Magua.
    Brake:
    20190618_163250.jpg

    Clutch:
    20190618_163457.jpg

    Based on @nobbylon (matches my brake) and @WRC51's (matches my clutch) bikes it looks like both levers I have mounted are BMW but a change was made in '76.

    I also found the clutch lever that was originally mounted to the broken perch and it does match the other side:
    20190618_162957.jpg

    Obviously the next question might be - why not just mount the brake lever to the new perch. But it appears that there was a change to the pivot hole location, so it doesn't fit.

    Since that lever now seems like it was originally fitted to my bike, I went and found one on Ebay for a good price $34 and bought it.

    Screenshot_20190618-185456_Chrome.jpg

    And as I mentioned earlier, I know this is a small detail and may seem silly, but it matters to me...