Source for Switched Power Under the Seat 1100GS

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Y E T I, Dec 31, 2011.

  1. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    I have searched and searched and can't find the answer.

    I am installing a fuseblock on my 1997 R1100GS. It's mounted on the airbox cover. I need a source for switched power near there to tap into.

    The is a plug with three wires going into it just behind the fusebox. (A dianostic plug?) Are any of the three wires going into that plug only hot when the key is turned on? Is there a better option?

    Thanks in advance.
    #1
  2. bdarling

    bdarling Weather Man

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    I took the lazy man's approach and used the heated grip lead when I installed my 12V socket. In my case, I wasn't worried about over-taxing the load relief circuit with one 12V socket, but you may want to find a better source. At any rate, when I was looking for switched leads, I discovered that the fuse box is a real PITA to get into, so I followed the harness up to the steering head.

    The Clymer manual wiring diagrams indicate that there should be a solid green wire going into the load relief relay that's switched and unfused. There's also a dark green on light green wire coming off the relay that may be a better candidate. Others more informed than myself may weigh in.

    -B
    #2
  3. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    I don't have heated grips. So where is the heated grip lead? If it wasn't for my complete inability to find a f'ing switched hot wire I would be riding right now. :becca
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  4. bdarling

    bdarling Weather Man

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    If you want to do this the "right" way, you can use the dark green/light green wire coming out of the load relief relay. Like I said before, it's a pain to get under the fuse box, but it's the first relay above the big yellow relay in the attached picture. Make sure you've got the right relay by trying the turn signals after you pull the relay. They shouldn't work.

    If you want to cheat, you could always use the headlight lead, but you risk blowing the headlight fuse if you go farkle-mad on your new fuse block.

    -Blake

    Attached Files:

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  5. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    or mebby use the alternator idiot light wire to run a relay & let the relay power the new fuse box. the new box would only power up when the alternator is producing.

    in the Hall of wisdom there is a "how to" on the ABS low voltage problem... should work for other things as well... just a thought

    http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/ABS_Low_Voltage_Fix.htm
    #5
  6. dwestmodesto

    dwestmodesto Been here awhile

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    I tapped into the rear running light. I ran a wire from there up to the fuse box. I have used it as switched power for all my other relays as well.
    Installing a fuse block now...5 years later..lol.
    Dave

    #6
  7. dfwscotty

    dfwscotty Long timer

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    Yup, go back to the tail/license plate light and backtrack it to the area where you want to tap into it.
    #7
  8. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    Thanks guys. I'll look into those ideas today. To get out for a ride I crimped a spade on the wire and plugged it into an empty fuse slot. It's temporary but it worked. :ricky
    #8
  9. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool Supporter

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    The headlight circuit is NOT fused. :eek1 A BMW dumbass move.
    This can, and has been be a problem resulting in burned wiring harnesses on some oilheads.
    There are also similar unfused circuits on F650's AMHIK
    I added fuses on the load relief circuit (20A) and on the Ignition switch circuit (10A) on my 1150
    If you tap onto any of those wires be sure to fuse it accordingly.
    #9
  10. Y E T I

    Y E T I Unpossible

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    Allright, What I ended up doing was lengthening the trigger wire to reach back to where I could pick up the tail light wire for the trigger. Works perfectly! Thanks for all the ideas. :bow
    #10