South America by Geezer

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by RexBuck, Oct 14, 2012.

  1. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Ride Report Index:
    March 3, 2017 - Well many thanks to Adventure Rider for providing a place to stash our Ride Reports. Unfortunately, they decided to change some software a couple of years ago that doesn't tolerate composing in MS Word and transferring the contents to the Forum pages. The result is what you are probably seeing now: A bunch of smiley faces and formatting code. Was supposed to be fixed but never was. I'll now start to manually fix it but, it'll take a while. Just finished my first Mexico Ride Report and that seemed to take me forever.


    Index for this Ride Report - click on the page number to be directed to the relevant page


    Oct 19 Entering Mexico - Post #29 - Go to page Two
    Oct 20 Highway 16 - Post 33 - Go to page Three
    Oct 21 & 22 #1 Basaeachi - Post 41 - Go to page Three

    Oct 21 & 22 #2 Creel - Post 49 - Go to page Four
    Oct 23 Almost Copper Canyon - Post 52 - Go to page Four
    Oct 24 On to Saltillo - Post 57 - Go to page Four
    Oct 25 Real de Catorce - Post 58 - Go to page Four
    Oct 26 Real de Catorrce - Post 68 - Go to page Five
    Oct 27 Leaving Real - Post 73 - Go to page Five
    Oct 28 The day I hoped would never end - Post 75 - Go to page Five
    Oct 29/30 San Miguel de Allende - Post 77 - Go to page Six
    Oct 31 to Nov 2 Guanajuato - Post 80 - Go to page Six
    Oct 31 to Nov 2 The City - Rivers and Tunnels - Go to page Six
    Oct 31 to Nov 2 Mexican History - Go to page Seven
    Nov 3 Cuota Hell - Go to page Seven
    Nov 4 Taxco - Go to page Seven
    Nov 5 Hiking Taxco - Go to page Seven
    Nov 6 – 8 Oaxaca - Go to page Seven
    Nov 9 -11 Zipolite - Go to page Seven
    Nov 12 Reluctantly leaving Zipolite - Go to page Seven
    Nov 13 Cañon de Sumidero and San Cristobal - Go to page Seven

    Nov 14 Into Guatemala - Go to page Seven

    Nov 14 – 17 San Pedro - Go to page Eight
    Nov 18 Antigua - Go to page Eight
    Nov 19 More Antigua - Go to page Eight

    Nov 21 To Copan Ruinas - Go to Page Eight
    Nov 22 Copan Ruins - Go to page Nine
    Nov 23 Into Honduras - Go to page Nine
    Nov 24 Last day in Honduras - Go to page Nine

    Nov 25 Into Nicaragua - Go to page Nine
    Nov 26-28 San Juan del Sur - Go to page Nine

    Costa Rica
    Nov 29 Into Costa Rica - Go to page Ten

    Nov 30 More Costa Rica
    Dec 1 Across Costa Rica Ten
    Dec 2 - 4 Puerto Viiejo Ten

    Dec 5 - Crossing into Panama Eleven
    Dec 6 - Panama City Eleven

    Dec 7 Over the Darien Gap Eleven
    Dec 8 – 9 Bogota Eleven
    Dec 10 Pick up bike day Twelve
    Dec 11 Manizales Twelve
    Dec 13 Into coffee country Twelve
    Dec 14 Medellin Thirteen
    Dec 18 Leaving Medellin Thirteen
    Dec 19 Bucaramanga Thirteen
    Dec 20 Chicamocha and Barichara Thirteen
    Dec 21 Zipaquira Thirteen
    Dec 22 - Armenia Thirteen
    Dec 23 To Cali Fourteen
    Dec 23 – Dec 28 Cali Fourteen
    Dec 28 Pasto Fourteen

    Dec 29 Into Ecuador
    Dec 30 To Quito Fourteen
    Dec 31 – 4 QuitoFifteen
    Jan 5 – 12 Galapagos Sixteen
    Jan 14 Amazon Rainforest Seventeen
    Jan 16 Baños Seventeen
    Jan 18 To Puerto Lopez Eighteen
    Jan 19 Puerto Lopez Eighteen
    Jan 19 - 26 Puerto Lopez and Mandála Eighteen
    Jan 26 Up the coast Eighteen
    Jan 29 to Jan 31 Last time in Quito Eighteen
    Feb 1 The trip resumes Eighteen
    Feb 2 Cuenca Nineteen
    Feb 3 Cuenca and Super Bowl Nineteen
    Feb 4 & 5 Last days in Ecuador Nineteen

    Feb 6 On to Peru
    Feb 7 To Jaen Nineteen
    Feb 8 Rio Utcubamba Nineteen
    Feb 9 - 11 Kuelap Twenty
    Feb 9 - 11 Gocta Waterfalls Twenty
    Feb 12 Back to Jaen Twenty
    Feb 13 Chiclayo Twenty
    Feb 14 - 16 Huanchaco Twenty One
    Feb 17 Cañon del Pato Twenty One
    Feb 18 - 20 Huaraz Twenty Two
    Feb 21 To the Coast and Huacho Twenty Two
    Feb 22 – 25 Lima, Huacachina and Nazca Twenty Three
    Feb 26 On the way to Cusco Twenty Three
    Feb 27 & 28 The ride to Cusco . . . but first, lets ride to Abancay??? Twenty Four
    Mar 1 & 2 Cusco Twenty Four
    Mar 3 - On to Machu Pichu Twenty Four
    March 4 Machu Pichu Twenty Four
    March 5 Ollyantombo and Maras Twenty Five
    March 6 Heading to(wards) Colca Canyon Twenty Five
    Mar 7 Finally to Chivay Twenty Six
    Mar 8 Colca Canyon and Arequipa Twenty Six
    Mar 9 - 10 Arequipa Twenty Seven
    Mar 11 To Puno Twenty Seven
    Mar 12 Lake Titicaca Twenty Seven

    Mar 13 to La Paz and Bolivia
    Twenty Seven
    Mar 14 La Paz Twenty Seven

    Mar 15 to Chile
    Twenty Seven
    Mar 16 Arica Twenty Seven
    Mar 17 Iquique Twenty Seven
    Mar 19 Antofagasta Twenty Eight
    Mar 20 San Pedro de Atacama Twenty Eight

    Mar 21 Jammin the Jama - to Argentina
    Twenty Eight
    Mar 23 Tafi del Valle Twenty Nine
    Mar 24 Catamarca Thirty
    Mar 25 – 27 Braving the flatlands to Buenos Aires Thirty
    March 28 – Apr 5 Buenos Aires ThirtyThirty One

    Apr 6 – 15 Home
    Thirty One

    You could have followed along by following my up to date position generated by my SPOT. The map now provides a good picture of a summary and detailed positions of my trip. Go here to see the SPOT MAP

    First Post:

    My quest to avoid flakes

    After a successful three month trip around Mexico last winter, the old bug to ultimately travel through South America resurfaced and, here we are.

    Taking a few steps back in time, here is a bit of background leading up to this trip.

    For a number of years I have had a lot of fun exploring the paved roads of North America on my Harley (Yah, I know).

    Always looking for new places to go, a couple of years ago, I thought “Why not ride that big ol red Hog down to Mexico and meet my wife there for a little lollygagging on a beach?” What a great time and, fantastic riding.

    But, after that trip I knew that a travelling bike that could accommodate topes (speed bumps), gravel and crappy roads with a bit more class would make sense. So, with a lot of research, wringing of hands and gnashing of teeth, I settled on a BMW 800GS as the ideal traveling bike for me.

    I have the right bike and I’ve dipped my toe in the water of adventure riding so the next step was to put two toes in the water. It started to come together when I retired almost a year ago and I was able to convince my wife that it would be a good idea for me to spend the first 3 months of my retirement wandering around Mexico on my new bike. Had a fabulous time sampling the beauty and culture of the many diverse parts of Mexico and my wife was able to join me for part of it. Mexico by Geezer

    After returning in the Spring and assimilating myself back into “normal” life, the idea of a longer trip to South America resurrected itself. A casual discussion with my wife received a reserved agreement so, I decided I had better “make hay while the sun shines” and get planning before she realized what she had agreed to and changes her mind.

    Having said that I “got planning” . . . well, there has been a lot of bike preparation, getting more gadgets but actual trip planning has been incredibly sketchy . . . for me.

    In the past, my road trips on the Harley tended to have the entire trip researched and planned down to the exact roads to take and the specific places I want to see before I left home. Some people (like me) rely heavily on a trip laid out turn for turn on their GPS while others like to wave paper maps in the wind to figure out where they are and where to go, while others have no maps, no GPS and no clue . . . they just point and go and see what happens. I envy that.

    This time my planning has consisted of getting some paper and GPS maps . . . determining that I want to go south until somewhere in Argentina, have my wife join me in the middle and then fly back to the US. That’s about it. That’s the RexBuck equivalent of point and go. Purists will scoff . . .

    I’ll be relying on my lady friend, my BMW 800GS, a pretty tough old broad complete with dings, scratches and the bottom layer of grim and bug shit – the rest being removed in my half-assed attempt to wash her. Here she is ready to go

    And saying goodbye to her buddies who get to stay home and freeze their mufflers off for the winter.

    Oh, for those of you who do not experience snow in the winter, those machines to the right of her buddies are called snow blowers and are a product of the devil . . . their use should be avoided whenever possible. Remember, one snow flake is a beautiful thing but many together are best avoided. Ergo, the subtitle for this post.

    As I post this I’ve started the trip having worked my way down to California to visit my Dad, my Son and his wife and get some new suspenders for my lady friend.

    More on all of this and stuff I’ve done to my bike later.
    Gregory Balcius likes this.
  2. Parcero

    Parcero Mundial Supporter

    Aug 7, 2008
    Chicago physically, Colombia en mi mente.
    There should be a stickied post for reports on how to gain approval from, or a least break the news to, wives of riders who plan to take off on an adventure. Sometimes that's the hardest part of planning, and maybe even the trip. For me, the "once-in-a-lifetime opportunity" line has worked well. I just don't know how many more times she'll believe that line.

    Sounds like a great trip! Perhaps our paths will cross on my way back north in 2013. Subscribed!
  3. Da Boss

    Da Boss n00b

    Oct 3, 2012
    Beautiful BC Canada
    Have a great time Steve
    Stay upright and be safe.
    Look forward to future posts.
  4. _cy_

    _cy_ Long timer

    Sep 25, 2011
    Tulsa, Oklahoma
    good luck on your trip!!
  5. Johnnydarock

    Johnnydarock Been here awhile

    May 6, 2009
    Redondo Beach CA
    I enjoyed your last ride report and I'm looking forward to following you all the way to the bottom.

    Ride safe and take it all in!

  6. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Thanks Parcero, hopefully we will run into each other along the way.

    No brilliant ideas in the "asking the wife dept" other than having one that is very tolerant and is good at the rolling of the eyes thing and shrugging her shoulders everytime we come up with some new idea.

    Thanks for that Mario - also, congrats on the new GS.

    And, welcome to the forum. :freaky

    Thanks cy

    Thanks for that Johnny and I appreciate you coming along again.
  7. holckster

    holckster dougholck Supporter

    Jun 29, 2006
    Lodi, Ca
    Enjoyed learning about your trip over breakfast this morning, thanks for making the effort to look me up and for stopping by to say hello.

    Great memories of our dinner in Oaxaca.

    Looking forward to your RR.

    Safe Travels
  8. Vernonpedro

    Vernonpedro Gravelrash

    Feb 13, 2012
    Okanagan Valley, BC
    Remember, take the time for lots of photos along with your great discriptions (the "verbage"), and stop to smell the roses - like you won't !!! Stay safe, Stevo - shiny side up, gooey side down. See you in the spring. Mi esposa will be contacting tu esposa (or words to that effect).
    Pedro :freaky
  9. EmilianoXR650L

    EmilianoXR650L Been here awhile

    Jun 23, 2010
    Playa Azul & Zihuatanejo
    Estaremos pendientes de tu ruta !!!!!!!:clap
  10. flamescountry

    flamescountry n00b

    Oct 14, 2012
    bc, canada
    the answer to the wife question is to have me around to spend too much time with her while you are gone. wasn't hard to convince her to let you go. safe LONG trip Steve
  11. GuateRider

    GuateRider Long timer

    Jan 2, 2008
    Antigua , Guatemala
    Sounds like a great adventure , ride safe and maybe our path will cross somewhere down the road !
  12. Redhed

    Redhed Lost on the Island

    Jun 29, 2009
    NorthWest Vancouver Island
    Another BC Boy seeking the sun...I am currently in Antigua, trying to figure out the difference between estoy and ser:rofl.
    Riding Blondy, the first F800 series. Had a great time in Baja and Mexico. Highly recommend San Juan de Laguna de Attilan if you have time. Guatemala is great. Perhaps our paths will cross. Subscribed..:clap
  13. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    It was great seeing you again Holckster. And, thanks for the road tips down the foothills.

    By the way, ate some of that jerky from that sausage shop in your town. Really good!
  14. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Thanks buddy, I appreciate that. Will try to keep my verbosity under control . . . :evil

    See you in the Spring
  15. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    If you ever figure out that esoy / ser thing, let me know. That is one of the many parts of the language I struggle with.

    Hoping to hang around Attilan a bit - is that where you are taking Spanish classes?

    Thanks for joining in
  16. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Thanks GuateRider. Holckster mentioned that he had a great time with you. Maybe we will be able to meet up down the road.
  17. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Yah, yah . . . I know your wife will keep that under control :lol3

    Thanks for the well wishes Billy and welcome to the forum
  18. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Gracias Emiliano
  19. Sleddog

    Sleddog Ridin, again:)

    Jul 5, 2010
    SE South Dakota
    Well, I'm back for this years adventure......:clap Looking forward to not getting much done at work.......again!

    Be Safe,

  20. RexBuck

    RexBuck Long timer

    May 5, 2010
    Interior BC, Canada
    Great to have you along again. I have so many people to thank for messing up my work day, I guess it's payback. I highly recommend retirement.