South America: Until our Luck or Money Runs Out

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Charles Seguin, Aug 26, 2008.

  1. motorradrudi

    motorradrudi tourguide

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    Hy guys,

    so many beautiful pics, and a very good story!

    :clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

    Thank you very much and good luck for the further trip!

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    Beste greatings from Germany
    Rudi
  2. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    [quote='Flagger]I've been following this report since the beginning and have had a blast. Thanks for the pictures and your insights into a particularly wonderful experience.

    I wonder if some of these 'smog' pictures wouldn't be improved with a UV filter. It's prolly useless advice for someone who is in the heart of peru at the moment and wielding a camera that can't use a filter, but if this works it might help the next traveller.[/quote]

    Actually one of the great things about my camera is that it has a plastic extender that allows you to attach filters. So I have a UV filter... but the smog didn´t look like UV interference so I didn´t think to use it... although that makes perfect sense. I´ve got a polarizer as well.

    Hey Nina.. thanks for the compliment... it means a lot coming from you especially after looking at some of your pics which I like a lot better than mine. Maybe we can just trade at the end of the trip :lol3 .

    My memory for how places look sucks... so I like to take a lot of shots to remind myself of where I´ve been.

    You could be right... I still don´t fully understand how they use "ya" down here... it seems to change a lot in context as well. Maybe someone can enlighten us?

    I was going for the Abbey Road shot... I was just missing three people.

    Good to have you a long Rudi!
  3. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    So as I was writing that last post two cars got into an argument with their horns outside the internet cafe. If there is one thing that stands out so far about Peru (other than the Andes) its the horns. In every city there is a cacaphony of horns at all hours. People honk for no reason. They honk in patterns for no reason. They honk different patterns in response to other people´s honking in a pattern for no reason.

    Peru has blown Mexico out of the water for loudest country yet. Last night we stayed in a cheap hostal (in Peru Hostals are just cheap hotels) in Chimbote. Chimbote is Peru´s largest fishing port... there isn´t really much reason to stay there other than it was the end of the road for you on that particular day. Its noisy, smells like fish, but has good Chinese food. We have a running joke about what noise will wake us up multiple times overnight. In Ecuador it was choral music at 2 am. In Mexico it was a couple watching porn. Last night for Charles (luckily I slept through it for the first time all trip) it was porn followed by the guy next door screwing a whore.

    Anyways I´ve liked Peru so far. The people are nice enough and seem genuinely interested in what we are doing. Most of them speak Spanish we can understand. They also seem to enjoy the nightlife a bit more than the Ecuadorians, as things are open later here, and the streets are alive with people well into the night. Although Im not much of a party animal its nice to have stuff available if you get into a city after dark... or are just bored.
  4. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    :boid Chimbote:boid
    We stayed in a medium sized town along the PanAmerican called Chimbote last night. Everything started out ok, I ate some street food and played a few games of chess with some guys in the promenade until I was ready for bed.

    I went back to the hotel, which had seemed fine when we got it. When I got back there was a guy in the room across from us having a loud cell phone conversation, no big deal, it`s never quiet here anyways, I fall asleep. After about an hour of that he decides to crank up the pornography for a while and I wake up to that.... then that stops, I hear him leave, and I fall asleep. Next I wake up to him ringing the bell to get back into the hotel, apperantly he came back with a whore, so I hear them go at it for a while, then she leaves and I fall asleep again.

    I wake up this morning in a foul mood and head out for some breakfast. Along the way I am accosted by a bum asking for change. He`s one of the real aggresive beggars that are common down here and he puts me on edge, so I give him a sole (about $.30) to leave me alone. Just as I am handing him the coin I feel two hands grabbing me from behind. I reel around and take a step back all the while shouting obscenties in English. When I turn around there`s another guy in front of me. I couldnt really read his expression and wasn`t sure if he was scared or confused. He says something in Spanish, I see that the bum has left and the situation is no longer threatening. I call him some choice names in English and he scampers off. I have no idea what the whole thing was about.... I originally thought they were trying to attack me, but the bum didn`t seem to have anything to do with the other guy and it`s really not that hard to grab someone from behind with the element of surprise... so I can`t figure it out. At the time I would`ve liked to take a swing at him, but unfortunately, being a foreigner here in Peru, I thought better of it. I realize now, too late, that the correct thing to do would`ve been to spit on him.
  5. moralesxr600

    moralesxr600 Nahuelbuta

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    "CRISTO YA VIENE", significa CRISTO VIENE.
    El "YA" significa que CRISTO viene sí o sí, tarde o temprano.

    In english: "YA" in this context means "soon or later"; CRISTO YA VIENE means CRISTO will come soon or later; but he will come.

    Hey guys, Do you come to Chile?
  6. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    Yeah, I`m sure we´ll come to Chile. Not sure how far down we`ll get.
  7. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    We aren´t sure if we will be going that far south in Chile or not. Trying to figure out if we do Bolivia or not and go from there.
  8. moralesxr600

    moralesxr600 Nahuelbuta

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    Ok J. and Charles. If you come; welcome.
    In this chilean forum, there are a lot of threads about chilean bikers. Also you can practice your spanish.
    http://www.adach.cl/sitio/default.asp?CAT_ID=2
    There is some bikers who can help you a lot, if you come to Chile.
  9. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    So this morning we figured we´d take a short ride to Caraz in the Cordillera Blanca and then see about doing a smaller ride in the afternoon after we found a place to stay. Boy were we wrong about the short part.

    Our map showed the route as being 120kms of paved secondary highway. When we pulled off onto the road, after asking the national police (who said it was paved) sure enough it was paved. However after two or three small towns the road turned to dirt. Then it turned to one lane dirt. We started climbing...

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    Innocent grades at first... but then we started doing switchbacks straight up the side of a mountain.

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    By this time we had already asked four or five different people if this was the road to Caraz... Si! Si! they said... well they didn´t say anything about the unmarked intersection just up ahead. We went straight, after consulting the map which wasn´t any help.

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    After a little while we decided to ask Tiger for directions... he didn´t know... but Barney did! Keep going straight!

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    Joking aside... we didn´t stay long after asking a guy for directions but it looked like this was a children´s event put on by some sort of non-profit group. They had music and microphones and were getting the kids to dance and it looked like they were having a lot of fun. Early Christmas present for some deserving kids up in the mountains.

    After a while we came to another bigger town which was on our map. We stopped for some snacks and asked directions. The guy told us we were almost there... just another hour and a half... and 2,000 meters farther up :eek1 .

    So we started climbing.

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    And climbed...

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    We got to the top over an hour later. 13,500 feet.

    This is the road down...

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    Down around the bend...

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    Im happy to be here

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    Chuck plays it cool

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    We asked this guy for directions. Where is Caraz?? He pointed down and to his right. Right there he says...

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    There are some very VERY tall mountains here. I just hope we get a break in the weather tomorrow and the next day so we can see them.

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  10. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    Yeah the Peruvian pedestrians and drivers are the worst yet. There are millions of tuk-tuks, little taxis that are basically a motorcycle converted to a trike with a bench in back for passengers, that are apperantly exempt from exercising common sense. The pedestrians are very "brave" here. People honk so much its really starting to get on my nerves in a way that it never did in Mexico. But all the weird driving is at low speeds, and really more annoying than dangerous.

    Sounds like Don and Marty had quite a bit of bad luck in Peru. It`s been a mixed bag for me so far. Ugly (along the PanAmericana), but very interesting, with plenty of nice people and a few total assholes. I`m sure Cusco will be back to the devil we know (backpackers) :lol3
  11. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer Supporter

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    Wow! What a route through the mountains!
  12. Neubz

    Neubz Been here awhile

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    What's the determining factor about whether or not you will go to Bolivia?
  13. britman

    britman Britman

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  14. britman

    britman Britman

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    North metro Atlanta
  15. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Two days ago. Sounds interesting... though we kind of got our fill of ruins in Central America.

    My camera tends to wash pictures out if I dont expose at least a little for the highlights. That and the press halfway down for metering and focus part of my shoot botton doesn´t work. So I can´t meter off one point and shoot off another. Kind of annoying.
  16. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Before last night it was whether or not we could find a good route out of the country.

    After looking at maps last night we´ve got a basic idea of the route for the rest of our trip.

    From Lima we will go south and then east to Arequipa and Lake Titicaca, cross over into Bolivia and head south to the Salar de Uyuni. Then we will backtrack north a little and leave Bolivia for Arica Chile. From there we will ride to San Pedro de Atacama, cross over into Argentina and then blast down Ruta 40 to the lakes district. We will evaluate the time and money aspects of things in Bariloche or thereabouts, and probably (the way its looking) head back to Buenos Aires and fly home.

    Yes that means no Tierra del Fuego. The prospect of battling the Patagonian winds on bikes this small while running dangerously low on funds isn´t all that appealing right now. As much as we would both like to go all the way down.
  17. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Yesterday I talked with the guy that runs the hostal we are staying at, and he told me we should ride up past these two lakes just outside Caraz. I told myself I was going to remember their names but I don´t. Fail I know.

    So we planned to get up this morning and head up that way after breakfast.

    Scenery from Caraz. This is (I believe) the Cordillera Negra, what we rode over yesterday.

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    This guy was driving his tuk tuk too fast! I didn´t think that was possible...

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    The thing was fine... except for a broken windshield. Most of them around here seem to use plastic if anything at all however.

    Sunday is market day. The streets were packed. Something you rarely see in the states.

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    I walked back to the hostal and found Chuck conversing with the owner lady. We talked to her for a while and then hit the road. Yesterday the owner was telling me about the seasons. Apparently during the dry season (our summer) its totally clear here every day. You can see 20k foot tall peaks for miles. Whether we would see anything at all was going to be totally up to chance.

    When I saw these two I was giddy.

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    I saw this canyon while we were descending into the valley yesterday and had a sneaking suspicion I would be riding into it today. Sure enough I did.

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    This is the view on the way out to Caraz. The walls are probably 1k feet tall in places. And it never gets much wider than you see here.

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  18. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Right before you ascend into the canyon you enter the Huscauran National Park. The ranger there wanted to charge us 25 bucks for an adventure tourism pass. I assured him we were just regular tourists, and weren´t going to do any camping... although once we saw the campsite it certainly looked like a good idea.

    Anyways once you get into the canyon it opens up a bit and you see the first of the two lakes.

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    Charles doesn´t know about this whole "picture" thing...

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    I, on the other hand need to keep the girlfriend happy. She´s going to be here soon!

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    Yeah my shirt is a little dirty. So sue me. :deal Smells worse than it looks... ask Chuck :lol3 .

    Snowcapped peaks were poking out from the clouds on either side of the lake.

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    We stopped for some pictures and ended up talking to a Peruvian guy who suggested we go up the pass... its only 45 minutes he said. Good idea we thought.

    So we started climbing...
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    And climbing...

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  19. Eduardo

    Eduardo Eduardo

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    Hola Amigos, Stunning mountain photos!

    "Why does a virtuous man take delight in landscapes?
    Because, the din of the dusty world and the locked-in-ness of human
    habitations are what human nature abhors: While on the contrary...
    haze, mist, and the haunting spirits of the mountains are what
    human nature seeks and yet can rarely find". Kuo His - 11th Century

    Here's one for asking travel advice: "Unusual travel suggestions are
    dancing lessons from God" . Kurt Vonnegut
    :norton
    Take care, keep warm, and enjoy! Saludos, Ed
  20. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    More shots coming as soon as Smugmug decides to stop slacking.