South America: Until our Luck or Money Runs Out

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Charles Seguin, Aug 26, 2008.

  1. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    Stay tuned :ear , the best is yet to come.

    Bannana Man, would love to meet you for that beer but we will be in Patagonia by then if everything goes according to plan. We'll be sure to save some penguin jerky for you though, as I understand you missed them on your trip.

    As for advice from old men, we've been thriving on it.

    I'm going to do this post in multiple replies, and with no pics becuase I'm on dial-up here in Tucson. :cry

  2. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    Good advice, and well taken. I doubt you're as boring as my brother and I. I'd post a "thumbs up" emoticon but my dial-up connection is too slow to get at the additional emoticons window.:lol3

    NeoPodo: Hope to see you down there. We will be leaving for Mexico tomorrow. We will be taking a 2 week immersion course in Spanish in San Cristobal De Las Casas, you may catch up to us there (or you may have already overtaken us by then).

    We have some great pics to upload, but the computer I'm on is too slow to do so, and doesn't have USB connection anyways from the looks of it.

    We've been doing some great dirt roads. The road up to Chaco Canyon in New Mexico was all dirt, with a little sand at the end to wake you up :deal .
    The back way up Mount Lemmon into Tucson was more of a trail than a road. There were cows on the trail and a few washouts and puddles the size of the road, which gave it a real Mexican flavor. Joe's DR kept bottoming out on his luggage rack, so we are probably going to have to find a way to modify that...

    Two days ago we did a roadside repair on the side of the freeway just outside of Albuquerque, Joe's bike kept running out of gas, with plenty left in the tank. So we checked the plugs: fine, valves: fine, floats: fine, petcock: fine, :baldy then we called Klay and he mentioned a fuel filter right before the carb it was clogged with the same fine, red sand as the carburetor had been clogged with before we left the first time. So we cleaned that filter and its been running well ever since.


    Signing off for now. My brother may post our pictures later if he can find a suitable computer.
  3. Nata Harli

    Nata Harli Accidental Tourista

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    Well, if you would have shown up at FALARR this year you would have gotten to meet the famous Banananananaman. [​IMG]

    So consider this an invite to SALARR next year.
  4. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    Last night we sat on the patio watching a lightning storm in the distance while we smoked some cigars that my girlfriend, Rachel, was nice enough to send to Tucson. :jose

    Tonight we are in Guaymas, Mexico. We left Tucson around 6 am and were into Mexico before 8. We took the Mexican equivalent of superslab from Nogales to Guaymas. I think it was around 300 miles. The slab goes through the center of the towns it passes through where it is more like a city street and then becomes more like a divided highway once you get out of town. The riding is intense in the city, but people are aware and it makes you much more aware. I find that traffic behaves more naturally here than in the US.

    The town of Guaymas isn´t anything to scream about. We are going to explore the centro in a minute, but I don´t expect anything spectacular.

    All in all today was WAY easier than what I had been psyching myself up for all summer.

    Tomorrow we are going to head down the coast and start making our way to Copper Canyon.

  5. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer Supporter

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  6. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Chuck says I shouldn´t post ¨vacation pictures¨ I figure that if you are reading this you are probably interested in seeing the pics that have bikes and us in riding gear and the pics of us exploring the places we´ve ridden to, so I´ll post both and you folks can tell us if you like it or not.

    Shortly after we left Albuquerque my bike started dying repeatedly every quarter mile or so. So after it killed the third or so time we stopped and tore the bike apart trying to find out what was wrong. After checking the valves, the fuel line and playing with the petcock we called our stepdad Klay and he said there might be a small fuel filter in the metal section of hose coming out from the carb to meet the fuel line. Sure enough that little guy was clogged up. We cleaned it out with a needle, put the bike back together and she´s been purring ever since. So here´s me fiddling with something on the side of I-40.

    [​IMG]
  7. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Our first stop was Acoma Pueblo (Dan´s suggestion). We took the tour and I shot some pictures.

    This is the roadway that was built to the top of the mesa to accomodate several John Wayne movies.

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    This is our tour guide, Fred, outside one of the Kiva´s. The ladders are painted white like the clouds and point to the sky to puncture them and bring rain.

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    The views from the top of the mesa were spectacular.

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  8. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Charles and I were feeling limber so we took the stairs down:


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    After we left the Pueblo we headed Northwestish towards Chaco Canyon. Here are some shots we took on the way:

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    We didn´t get to Chaco until after dark. We rode the entire twenty miles of dirt into the park in almost complete darkness. It was going fine until the road turned to sand just inside the park entrance and I abandoned ship after doing a 180 trying to gas it out of the slide. We didnt get any pictures because I was too tired and pissed off to drag out the camera. We would have been there at a decent time but we thought there would be gas in at least one of the towns that turned out to be nearly nonexistant res towns and there wasn´t. So Charles ran out of gas several times and it took forever to find the station in Crownpoint. Long story short we set up our tent at the Chaco Canyon campsite and went to bed at around 11PM.
  9. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    The next morning we hitchhiked to the ruins of Pueblo Bonito and walked around. Here are some shots of that:

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  10. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Here is a shot of my bike on the dirt road leaving the bike (no crashes on the way out during the day, odd really. :D )

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    From there we rode west and south into Arizona. This is Cedar Canyon (I think) near the end of the day.


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    There was a car at the bottom of the canyon but I couldn´t get a shot that showed the car with a sense of the height that it must have fallen into the canyon. If someone was in that car I highly doubt they made it out alive.

    By this time we were looking for places to stealth camp but couldn´t find any. It had started raining hard to the south of us so we continued down the road until we found a rest stop at the bottom of Salt River Canyon. We decided to stay there for the night. Highway patrol be damned.

    Here is our ¨campsite¨at dawn the next day

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    From there we continued South until we hit the trail that leads up the back (north side) of Mt. Lemmon. Here are some shots from about halfway up:

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    And here´s the view from the top:


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    I thought I uploaded a hastily shot picture from outside Guaymas today but I dont see it so thats it for now.
  11. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile Supporter

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    How you likin' the Distanza's ??
  12. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    I'll let you know when i get some miles on them.
  13. Django Loco

    Django Loco Banned

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    A great route up to Copper Canyon is to go south from Guaymas on Mex 15 to Ciudad Obregon. At the very north end of town, actually out of town, look for a main road (Mex 12) heading off Mex 15 East. May not be a sign. But ask, I think Santa Rosa is a town on this route. There is only ONE main road. Stay on it. This will take you to the intersection of Mex 16. Turn right here and continue all the way to Copper Canyon. Fun twisty roads the whole way.

    NOTE: There is a military check at the junction usually. They may ask for your papers. Have your tourist Permiso ready. Leave everything else put away until asked for them.

    You may be out of daylight or tired before Creel, so consider staying in motels before Baschiachic falls. (sp) on north side of road.

    Best of luck guys!
  14. moralesxr600

    moralesxr600 Nahuelbuta

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    I live in Concepción, Chile (search in googleearth). If you need anything, i can help you.

    Yo vivo en Concepción, Chile (busca en googleearth). Si necesitas alguna cosa, yo te puedo ayudar.
  15. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Damn I didn´t see this until after we left today. We rode through Ciudad Obregon and are now in El Fuerte we didn´t see a good way to get from Creel back towards the Culiacan/Mazatlan area so we went this way instead. We´ll see if we can see anything worthwhile tomorrow.

    Morales- Thanks for the heads up. We´ll remember that once we get towards Chile. Im sure we will be in contact.
  16. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    We went to bed pretty early last night so we were both up early in the morning. I wasn´t in any hurry to get going since it was so hot and humid outside so I flipped on the television and was watching the weather channel until it turned into a local broadcast showing a ton of flooding in the Los Mochis area. The guy was talking fast and the expert was on the phone so I couldnt understand exactly what happened, where and when, just that there was a huge amount of flooding in the Los Mochis area. So we discussed our options and decided to try and see if there was anything about it on the internet because we didnt want to get stuck in miles of traffic due to closed roads or something similar. It took a while to find a place that was open. An American was working but he wasn´t of much help, and I couldnt find anything about the flooding so we decided to wing it and head for El Fuerte.

    We left Guaymas and headed southwestish on the cuota towards Ciudad Obregon. Everything seemed normal so I forgot about the flooding for a bit. We got lost trying to take the free road around the city, and ended up back on the Cuota after we talked to some safety guys on the edge of town. From there we kept riding, stoping only for water and a single taco in Navojoa. It was too hot to eat much more. The roads were pretty good, although not as good as yesterday. The scenery was largely unchanging, pretty much all of Mexico has looked something like this so far:

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    Rolling green hills/mountains with vegetation more or less like you see here on the sides of the road. This is pretty much the only worthwhile picture I have of the terrain here so far, I think mostly because Ive been too busy adjusting to Mexico and speaking Spanish again. Despite that I found Sonora to be very beautiful and drastically different than what I had imagined.
  17. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Outside and around Navajoa I began to remember the flooding again as there was large amounts of standing water at times on either side of the road, however there was nothing major as of yet. I was beginning to think that maybe the useless American guy at the internet cafe was right and the storm footage was from a week ago. However after Navajoa things changed dramatically. We were forced to take detours at least three times as many bridges over the normally small or dry streams in the area had been washed out and large chunks of pavement were now creating rapids in the water. At that point I was glad we hadn´t left early because we probably would have been stuck in large amounts of traffic as the authorities sorted things out. By the time we got there in the early to late afternoon things were flowing smoothly. I didnt get any shots of the destruction on the cuotas because there was never a good place to stop. But I did snap these on the way to El Fuerte.

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    Above is one of the bridges on the way to El Fuerte. :eek1 . I was surprised it was still standing considering the height and force with which the water was flowing, and given the destruction we witnessed earlier today.
  18. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    When we got to El Fuerte we stopped at a couple of hotels that were too expensive for our budget before two guys in a truck asked me if we were looking for a hotel. I think Im getting my Spanish skills back (and I think they were good at speaking Spanish a gringo could understand) because I could understand everything he said. That was a relief after a day of hardly understanding most of the people who were talking to me. Anyways I said yes, they said to follow them and led us to a place that looked rather seedy at first, but is actualy a very nice place once you get inside the courtyard. The rest of the pics I took today are of the hotel, and the plaza in El Fuerte.

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    Well thats it for now. Hopefully there will be another installment tomorrow.


    :robin :jose
  19. Charles Seguin

    Charles Seguin Noob4Life

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    I can´t stress enough how easy it has been to ride down here. It´s not as easy as in the States, but it´s hardly what I was prepared for. It reminds of the hooligan runs I used to do in Minneapolis with my buddies before we got too smart (scared) for that... only here the other drivers are expecting it and are paying attention.

    I´ve also been surprised at how cheap and easy it is to get good internet connections here.

    The bikes are running great and we are in good spirits. Going to Copper Canyon tomorrow.
    :jose
  20. j_seguin

    j_seguin Been here awhile

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    Well we figured out a great, scenic route to Copper Canyon. We paid for another night at our hotel and were going to leave in the morning for a days ride without the bother of all our extraneous gear. The only problem was the route we chose takes an ENTIRE day if you are quick, and two days if you arent. We didnt leave immediately in the morning so we were only a quarter of the way, at most, to the Canyon when we turned around at 2PM. When we asked the guy at the hotel what the road we were planning on taking was like he said it was a big mining road and would be just fine to ride. It was fine to ride, and the passenger trucks shuttling people inbetween towns were driving on it, but it wasnt quite what we imagined. In most places we could only go 15mph or less. Needless to say progress was slow. The scenery, however, speaks for itself.

    Here is Charles on the paved portion of the road

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    Here is a portion of the gravel section of the road

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    My bike feeling nice and light

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    My bike feeling not so nice and not so light:

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    Oh noes the Policia!!

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