South American Adventure - 2 up on a R100GS

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Flyingavanti, Sep 1, 2005.

  1. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    And then it happen!

    Our first FLAT tire of the trip, and I forgot to bring a spare!

    I had the wheel off in less than 3 minutes, and already had a Tricycle waiting to take Sandy and the wheel for repairs.

    While I guarded (rested) the bike.

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    Not a bad spot to have to wait for Sandy to return.
    The patch for the tube was $3.00 and the tricycle driver wanted $1.00.

    Gave him $3.00 and he was overjoyed!

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    My rest was coming to an end.....
    Total lost time was less than 30 minutes....

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    Once the wheel, and Sandy returned, it was less than 3 minutes before we were up and running again....

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    Hey.....
    John Deykes....

    This sign made me think of you........

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    Spent Wednesday night at the Mandala.

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    Sandy is in there somewhere!
    Our first night of the trip with Mosquito nets.....

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  2. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    The view from Mandala......

    We got an early start on Thursday the 29th of September, and headed to Salinas, Ecuador.

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    Past an evaporative sea water salt mine.....

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    Past the modern homes on the outskirts of Salinas....

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    and past some classic old homes and we finally arrive in......

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    Salinas, Ecuador.
    Still overcast, but the temperature is a perfect 75 degrees.

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    Salinas, in the other direction. Sure wish the sun would have been out, for better colors.

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    That's it for today..... Got to go through the pictures of the last few days. We are taking a vacation from our vacation. My Dad sent us a email and theatened us, if we did not take the time and see the Galapagos Islands while we are here. So tomorrow morning we are flying to the islands, then taking a small exploration boat around the islands for 4 days, then back to Guayaquil on Thursday, the 7th of October.
  3. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    LEARNED a MAJOR LESSON.................

    Yesterday was more exciting then expected! No pictures yet, but we were heading to a church, in a REAL bad part of town, with a shanty town behind the church. We needed to go up the hill, and shoot the picture angle down from the hill (a Then and Now Thing). As we walked pass the church, 4 old people yelled at us, then pointed in another direction. They were pointing to a path going the other way, and up to a tourist lighthouse. We proceed, and they yelled at us. We said we would go the other way in a few minutes. We walked about 300 yards pass the church and looked up a steep (40 degree staircase), through an area so bad you would not believe it if you saw it in a movie. I went and pulled the camera out, and about 10 people shook their fingers and then flagged us to get out as quickly as possible. THEY LOOKED PANICKED! As we turned around, one of the old guys had followed us, and grabbed our arms and dragged us out of the neighborhood as he made handsigns of guns and knives. He looked like a burn victim (at least 90% of a face was burnt and he no more than 4 teeth, and could barely walk). But he followed us, with concern for our safety. After this 10 minute experience, we were shaking on how close we came to a VERY dangerous encounter. The looks on the faces of the women, between 30 and 40 years old, we will remember for ever. It was pure fear for us, and they have to live in the enviroment daily!

    Guayaquil basically sucks. 13 million people live in Ecuador and 4 million live Guayaquil, which is a pit of hell. We have loved every corner of Ecuador with the exceptions of Esmeralda and Guayaquil.

    Learned a lesson, and now being EXTREMELY careful

    .................... Adios Dale and Sandy
  4. RichBomb

    RichBomb Curse of the Lono

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    Geez guys! Don't hype up your trip on the forums and then do something like fight a bandito or something!



    Ok, but no more wise guy stuff :umph
  5. Howler

    Howler Been here awhile

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    Awesome report! Be careful though! :huh
  6. Dreamtime

    Dreamtime Long Rider

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    Hi guys
    I was just thinking, that poor little donkey looks a lot like
    my 1200 on our Big Sur trip only he is standing up.
    I am enjoying your trip.
    Best wishes John
  7. gmccon

    gmccon Banned

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    Not to be nosey or too personal, but do you attend services at any of the churches you visit?

    greg
  8. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Not yet. Do you think it would be a good suggestion?

    Will be posting more pictures tonight...........
  9. gmccon

    gmccon Banned

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    I'm being too personal. Have fun. Thanks very much for your report and pictures, and please take care of your back. greg
  10. YOGOI

    YOGOI Prick

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    I dont think thats too personal of a guestion. I know in Mexico its ok and quite a way to really get a fill for their culture.
  11. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    On Friday, the 30th of September, we got an early start for the city of Guayaquil which is approximately 100 miles away. Ecuador's entire population is about 12,500,000. 4,000,000 people reside in Guayaquil, the largest town in Ecuador. There is a lot of competition between the largest city and Quito (population of 1,800,000), which is the capital.



    Bike is packed and we get a early start, prior to the traffic hitting the streets.

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    Time for a quick wash on our ride out of town.
    We were getting filthy just carrying the panniers to the room each night.

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    Typical street in the better areas of Guayaquil.

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    Old buildings tucked between the newer structures.

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    One of the many main boulevards.

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  12. gmccon

    gmccon Banned

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    I know they're not on any sort of mission, other than to experience all that a strange and beautiful land can offer, but his story about the apparent evil in Guayaquil and Esmeralda, "a pit in hell", as he said, scared me, frankly. I would have headed into the first church I saw. I'm concerned about his twisted back, too. But it's none of my business and I don't want to lay my religious 'trip' on anyone in a chat forum as otherwise interesting as this.

    greg
  13. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    I am sorry... I thought you meant it in jest, and my response was also in jest...

    And we are being much more careful!
  14. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    The Malecon, along the river, was built in 2000 and was about 1 1/2 miles long.

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    It was always overcast in Guayaquil, and again the colors of the building did not stand out.

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    Guayaquil is a very old city, but fires have burnt the city to the ground many times. Most of the older building are from the mid to late 1800's.

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    This old structure was very typical of what Guayaquil looked like in the 1800's.

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  15. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Simon Bolivar and Jose de San Martim met in Guayaquil in 1822 to discuss the independence of South America.

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    Nice palms...



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    A famous writer, Paul Theroux, wrote in a book titled "The Old Patagonian Express" that "Visitors to Guayaquil are urged to raise their eyes, for on a clear day it is possible to see the snowy hood of Mount Chimborazo from the humid streets of this stinking city; and if you look down, all you see is rats". Today the same is still true, but we never saw the snow capped peaks.
  16. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    We boarded a 1 1/2 hour cruise on the Rio Guayas.

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    We took a $5.00 cruise up the river.
    The poverty was astounding!

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    And these were not untypical riverfront neighborhoods.

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    Part of the reason we took the cruise was to try and find a church called "The Church of St. Thomas". Notice the river in the background.
    The guide books and people we asked did not know of an "Thomas church.

    This pictures was from a book by James Fitzpatrick called "Fireside Travels in South America", and printed in 1948.

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    Based on the picture above, if it still exists, it should be visible from the river, so that was the main purpose of the river cruise.
    As we cruised by the older section of town, lo and behold, there it was.

    It is now called "San Vicente Church", and is, in fact, the oldest church in Guayaquil.

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    A close up from the book... And a Close up from my photo...​

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    We had found the correct church. Getting close ups of the church should now be easy... Right!... WRONG...
  17. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Notice the neighborhood we would have to visit, to get a picture from the backside of the church.

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    The front of the church, today.... And this is the best picture we could obtain.....See below...


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    As we passed the front of this church, which was in a REALLY bad part of town. Behind the church was a hill side shanty. We needed to go up the hill, and shoot the picture angle down from the hill (a Then and Now Thing). As we walked pass the church, 4 old people yelled at us, then pointed in another direction. They were pointing to a path going the other way, and up to a tourist lighthouse. We proceed, and they yelled at us. We said we would go the other way in a few minutes. We walked about 300 yards pass the church and looked up a steep (40 degree staircase), through an area so bad you would not believe it if you saw it in a movie. I went and pulled the camera out, and about 10 people shook their fingers and then flagged us to get out as quickly as possible. THEY LOOKED PANICKED! As we turned around, one of the old guys had followed us, and grabbed our arms and dragged us out of the neighborhood as he made hand signs of guns and knives. He looked like a burn victim (at least 90% of a face was burnt and he no more than 4 teeth, and could barely walk). But he followed us, with concern for our safety. After this 10 minute experience, we were shaking on how close we came to a VERY dangerous encounter. The looks on the faces of the women, between 30 and 40 years old, we will remember for ever. It was pure fear for us, and they have to live in the environment daily!

    Guayaquil basically sucks. 13 million people live in Ecuador and 4 million live Guayaquil, which is a pit of hell. We have loved every corner of Ecuador with the exceptions of Esmeralda and Guayaquil









    Again, as stated earlier, Ecuador is GREAT, but there are a few spots that are not attractive.
    We want to be thorough and post pictures of the good and the bad.

    The current score is about 95% GREAT and 5% BAD!

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    View of the malecon area (newer area), from the boat.

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    Try and get permission to drive a commercial boat in the U.S.!

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    The Ecuadorian staff was very friendly.

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    Old building from the boat.

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  18. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    The knoll where the old church was located.

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    A nicer neighborhood in Guayaquil.

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    We stumbled on a firefighters museum, and as my brother is a fire captain, and I believe Yogoi also fights fires..... we made a short visit.

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    The musuem was located in the old "Pump House" which was a major improvement to Guayaquil, helping it fight fires in a city that has had so many bad fires in the past.

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    It was very moving to visit a museum of fire fighters, in Ecuador, and see at least 40 displays of newspapers from all over the world covering the tragic events of 911.....

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  19. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    Visited Parque Bolivar.

    It should be renamed "Iguana Park".

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    Some of the Iguanas were at least 5 feet long.

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    Iguanas, just passing the time.....

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    Some builds are classics, others are modern and some are almost "South Beach Art Deco".

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    A classic....

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    The changes as you walk the streets is unbelievable.
    A brand new art museum in the foreground.

    Shanty town on the hill.


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    This was a door to a "Tony Roma's".
    I guess customers need to be reminded to leave their guns outside......

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    This building, built in 1907, was built and designed by the same Eiffel that designed the big tower in Paris.

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  20. Flyingavanti

    Flyingavanti With the Redhead on Back!

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    This picture is from a 1954 book by Sydney Clark entitled "All the Best in South America".

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    With the new Malecon of 2000, this is the best we could do....

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    Many poor live in Guayaquil, with a FEW isolated spot of wealth, which has to be protected by gates and police.

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    Neighborhoods like this are few and far between.

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