South I say... Argentina

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by battdoc, Sep 15, 2018.

  1. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    I woke up around 6:30 this morning and took a walk around the block to test my ankles and knees. A bit sore but ready to hit the road out of Cusco tomorrow. After breakfast, I decided to go for a little ride to see Cristo Blanko. Jason decided to stay in to catch up with his e-mails and stuff.
    It was a nice little stroll to a vista point. I wanted to check out Saqsaywaman archaeological sight but the entrance fee was 70 Sols. Decided not to go inside.
    P1050246.JPG P1050243.JPG P1050249.JPG P1050244.JPG
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  2. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    I want to come back with my boys and hike both of the mountains. For now this will have to do.
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  3. Rubinski

    Rubinski Been here awhile

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    Great pics Battdoc. By the way, how many Soles to a Dollar?
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  4. holckster

    holckster dougholck Supporter

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    Just make sure to order RARE, Argentina cooks seem to like to ruin meat by overcooking.
    You can always send it back for alittle more flame but once its shoe leather you're done.
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  5. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    3.32 Soles.
  6. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    We left Cusco on Saturday in great spirits and headed to Puno. A lot of traffic and speed bumps, but we were moving along well. Rolled through chilly temperatures, then warm and back to chilly. We were about 20 miles away from Puno and the disaster struck:

    An asshole Peruvian driver took all the happiness away. Jason was ahead of me, a pickup driver coming from the opposite direction tried to overtake another vehicle and then backed out. But then he flashed his lights and went for it. Jason slammed his brakes, I grabbed mine but did not have enough distance between us. We collided, Jason went down on the highway and I went airborne and ended up in a ditch. My bike rolled several times and ended up in the ditch a feww feet away from me. When my body came to a stop, all I can think was, hope Jason is not hurt. Then I saw him running to me as I was just lying there. I told him that I’m okay, just give me a minute.

    That idiot never stopped to see if we were okay, a police vehicle went by and never stopped. People went around Jason’s bike honking, but no one stopped. Once I got my senses back together, I started waving at vehicles to stop and help us. Finally a car stopped and a couple of guys helped us get our bikes upright.

    The whole thing is a blur to me. I only remember tumbling around and see my bike go by me.

    My whole life flashed in front of my eyes and mind was scrambled:

    What if Jason was badly injured, how would I ever redeem myself.

    What if I had sustained a debilitating injury.

    Is my trip over.

    I’m glad that I invested in Revit suit, it saved my ass. Where I landed, just a few feet away there was a pile of glass.

    We both took a sigh of relief that we are not killed and still walking around. We turned out attention to our bikes. Jason’s rear was tweaked and right side bag lost its seems. His luggage rack is sheared off. My bike won’t cut off power, after playing with all the switches I had to disconnect the battery. Then wouldn’t start. Both side upper crash bars got shoved into the plastics, windshield is tilted to one side, both mirrors are missing, handlebars are bent, top case is all mangled up. Left side hand guard is broken off. Rear rack is tweaked, may be the sub-frame is bent as well.

    We had to get to Puno and re-assess everything. We started flagging pickups and finally a fellow stopped, but he had a short bed that can only fit Jason’s bike. We were trying to come up with a plan of loading Jason’s bike and flag another truck for mine. Then I gave my bike a try, and it fired up. I took a little spin to test things out. It felt okay to ride. In the meantime another pickup stopped and helped us get Jason’s bike on the pickup. We loaded Jason’s bags and pieces from my bike in the other pick up. I followed them to our hotel in Puno. The pickup owner both did not accept a payment for helping us. Their act restored some faith back towards Peruvian people.

    We got in our hotel, parked our bikes and went out to grab a bite. I popped a couple of Aleves to help me sleep. My right shoulder and right hip was very stiff. Banged up body at 12600 feet, was feeling the effects of altitude.

    Life in Peru is incredible in many different way; joy of riding the most beautiful roads on the planet, breathtaking views, yet can be very frustrating at the same time. People cutting you off constantly, pushing you off the road with absolute no regard for life.
  7. wrussell61

    wrussell61 Card Carrying Cult Member

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    Wow! :yikes Glad you guys are physically OK. Keep us posted...
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  8. anotherbmw

    anotherbmw Been here awhile

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    Glad you aren’t seriously hurt....hope you’ll be rolling again soon.
  9. Rubinski

    Rubinski Been here awhile

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    Dumb Ass Idiot for sure!! Its sad but I have seen this too many times in Mexico as well. I was driving my car in a Mexican city and a 12 year old boy ran in front of me. He tried to put his arm out to stop my car (I was doing 15-20 per hour (the speed limit) and broke it in two places. I stopped to render aid and took the child in my car to the Red Cross because he did not want to go to the hospital. The cops tried to take my car and Lucky for me I have family there. I was taken to the police station and made to wait with others. When they found out I was an office in the U.S. Army, I was moved to a separate room and treated quite different. But not only that helped, my uncle came with his Lawyer and I was released to my uncle. My uncle scolded me and gave me an ass chewing for even stopping and rendering aid. Told me people's lives are ruined when they stop and render aid to someone they hit. He said that I should have kept going (needless to say, I totally disagreed with him). The next day I made front lines in the local news paper, "North American renders Aid to child hit by car." In the U.S. we don't think twice rendering aid! Yes once in a while you have an asshole like this Peruvian driver do the same thing, but for the most part, we value human life!!! I am glad you are alright my friend! Don't let this ruin or end your entire trip, although I understand if you decide to end it!! My prayers go out to you and the rest of your trip!!!
    Keep us that are following you posted...
    yokesman likes this.
  10. holckster

    holckster dougholck Supporter

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  11. holckster

    holckster dougholck Supporter

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    Just got word from battdoc both motos are in rideable condition and they are on the move.
    In Copacobana now and onto La Paz tomorrow.
    They are in good spirits.
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  12. ADVer

    ADVer Been here awhile

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    Good to hear that they weren’t injured and are on the road again!!
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  13. tferguson

    tferguson Been here awhile

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    Well, I'll try my recollection of it. A pickup collectivo was coming the opposite direction, took a peek around a car to try passing, saw me, and went back to his side. Then decided "fuck it", with about 4 car lengths from me. Flashed his lights and went for it. I already rolled off the throttle, and lightly tapped the brakes when he first thought about it. Full brakes to avoid the head on collision as I tried to get to the right towards the narrow shoulder. Caught a glimpse in the right mirror briefly, and then I was down. Other than the the moron in the pickup, the thing that pissed me off the most is a couple of cars went around me while the bike is still on top of me in the middle of the road. I got out from under, ran over to check on @battdoc and everyone is honking as they go by. And not a little blip. They felt terribly inconvenienced that they had to let off the gas for 3 seconds as they watch 2 bikers recovering from an accident. Then the police just rolled on by with my bike on the shoulder, and battdocs still in the ditch.
    Just North of Juliaca, we were also pulled over and they tried to get money from us on the side of the road.
    Once finally leaving Puno, a mother and young child were crossing the road, so obviously I waited, and the collectivo behind me is raging on the horn behind me. 30 seconds later, riding in the middle of my lane, another collectivo rips by me in town, misses me by 6", honks at me, and gives me the finger. The lack of compassion behind the wheel is mind boggling. The other countries have been a little crazy in their own rights, but the lack of sympathy towards your fellow man is quite disheartening.
    Ok, rant over.

    It's unfair to judge an entire country based on the actions of a select few. The pickup that helped lift me bike into the truck, and drive me to Puno, then refusing payment helped brighten that day. The hotel owners were super friendly and accommodating as we played with the bikes in their restaurant (would recommend them at Quechuas Inka Palace). Then the border crossing at Yunguyo was a breeze.
    Peru has had the best scenery so far of the entire trip. Some unreal roads and mountains stretching endlessly down the horizon and upwards. The Andes have been stunning.

    Bits have been rewelded. I got a new muffler bracket sorted out today in Copacabana. Boots are pretty scuffed, and my pants have some battle scars. But soreness is going away. Just need a new rear tire in La Paz and I'll be set for a while.
    powderzone, aesull, 'Bob' and 8 others like this.
  14. TeeTwo

    TeeTwo Adventurer

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    Pleased you both got up, battered but not broken. Onward with better fortune. Thanks for the RR, taking notes.

    Ciao. T2
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  15. Turkeycreek

    Turkeycreek Gringo Viejo

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    A bit more drama than one would want. Glad you are OK.
  16. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    We are okay, bikes are somewhat mended. A little more attention is needed, hopefully we can do that in La Paz and move on.
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  17. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    Thanks Doug.
  18. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    Definitely more than I want be a part of, but we are putting it behind us and move on. Thanks for checking on me.
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  19. Turkeycreek

    Turkeycreek Gringo Viejo

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    As we used to say "who's tougher than you?"
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  20. battdoc

    battdoc Old Enough

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    His act is not a reflection of Peruvian people in general, but I do have to say that they behave differently when they grab the wheel.