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Discussion in 'The Garage' started by trscott, Nov 4, 2007.
Are we pushing amps to the limit on this wire? Over a half inch segment? If so, we have a problem!
It may depend on whether it's carrying AC or DC current.
I believe you're thinking of high frequency (RF). Litz Wire has been around for many years. The big difference is that the strands are insulated from each other. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire
My inner elbows have scars ...
There's a bar in North Lawrence that was built with welded steel beams. Where they added stiffening plates at the beam joins, it's really obvious that whoever welded it wasn't very good at welding with the stick pointed up.
I just bumped into this thread. I couldn't read much past the OP post, but for me, that post was GREAT!
Most of us buy various GPS and other power outlet products. Some of us have no clue how to splice wire, and default to Home Depot crimp things.
I finally bought a soldering iron and tried to do better with that. It actually worked, even though I didn't know what I was doing.
But thanks to the original post, I know much better now. I may redo all my crimp things.
'May' is the operative word.
Here is a question that hasn't been touched on yet:
What kind of solder should I use for different connections? I watched a youtube video where someone mentioned acid solder or something along those lines. Can someone please enlighten me?
Use Resin core solder for normal copper wire solder joints, acid core will cause corrosion. Cheers Peter.
Acid core solder is for plumbing.
It should NEVER be used on electrical, anything.
Got it. Well at least I know what it's used for. Thanks again
Just wanted to add my thanks to the OP.
I love step by step guides like this - they take a seemingly daunting task and break it down into simple steps that an idiot like myself can follow.
Huzzah that man!
I replaced the stator on my DL-1000. I soldered the wires and used heat shrink over the joints.To give it an extra bit of protection I wrapped electrical tape and painted liquided electric tape over the whole splice.
The electrical system has been working good ever since and that included me changing out the rotor.
Learned the hard way on that one. I was building a test board with some 3.3V logic and used acid core on a pinch. The board ended in the trash, the cross talk and leakage to ground was un-fixable.
Thanks for the tutorial and the discussion. Incredibly helpful. On my 2004 GSA I soldered the connections and they've been rock solid. On the 2014 GSA though I'm using a PDM60 and placing it in the back of the bike as others have done. In talking with the PDM60 folks they recommend 8AWG marine wire to extend the 12 (I believe) attached to the PDM60.
There is a significant difference in wire diameter and this will make for quite a soldered splice. I would appreciate the thoughts of the experts here. I've been googling the threads here and looking at different crimp connectors but haven't found a great answer. I've seen step down connectors from Ancor but they go from 10-12 not down to 8. Excuse the lack of knowledge on this. I've looked at wiring charts and it sounds like i could go 10 for the length of the rungs instead of 8 which would simplify things a bit...
Thanks in advance for advice...
Here's an 8:
On the other side, if your wire gauge is too small to fill the connector, you can strip double the length and fold it in half, then put that in the connector. If that's too big, get a short length of a smaller gauge, strip both ends and insert both ends in the connector (leaving a loop outside) along with your main conductor.
Perfect. Thanks troidus...