Stebel R1200GS horn kit review

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Artboy57, Feb 27, 2006.

  1. DangerMoney

    DangerMoney Loud Helmets Save Lives

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    Gents,
    I received my Stebel and AW R1200GS installation kit, am in the process of installing it and am stumped by where the relay is supposed to be mounted. In step 8 of the AW instructions it says:
    On top of my battery is the metal bracket which holds the battery captive and attached to the trailing edge of the air box with 1 screw. One inch above that is a second screw which is also screwed into the trailing edge of the air box and is holding a PIAA relay for the lights which were on the bike when I purchased it from the previous owner. There is no "T shaped bracket". Perhaps it was removed when the PIAA relay was installed.

    Does anyone have a picture of the horn relay on the T-shaped bracket?
    TIA
  2. JimVonBaden

    JimVonBaden "Cool" Aid! Supporter

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    There really is no wrong place to put it unless it gets in the way of reassembly. You can put the relay under the side panel, or on that same screw if it fits. It is essentially waterproof, so be creative, just make sure the terminals are generally pointing down, or it is in a location where it wont get wet.

    Jim :brow
  3. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    On my second installation, I followed the intructions to a T, and I strapped it with zip ties to the metal bracket that holds the owner's manual above the battery. No issues.
  4. dwf

    dwf 2007 R1200GS Adventure

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    Mission accomplished!! Just finished installing it. I just followed the instructions and it works great. It took me about two hours. Thanks all for your help.
  5. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    GB,

    I sprung and purchased the kit to finally install the horn that has been lying around the house for 6 months. I agree with your comment about the wires being a bit short. :bluduh

    Also, in other posts that I have read it is recommended to use 12 ga and some say 10 ga although that would seem to be overkill. The wire supplied looks like it may be 16 ga or maybe even 18 ga.

    I am leaning towards 12 ga? What say you? :ear
  6. dwf

    dwf 2007 R1200GS Adventure

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    Just use what is in the kit. Plenty of wire and it's the right size.
  7. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    I have everything installed according to the instructions from AW. I draw the power from my Centech fusebaox which goes directly to the battery. When I hit the horn button the horn sounds for about a second and then shuts off. Hit the button again and it sounds for one second and shuts off.

    The power is obviously getting to the horn but why would it shut off after a second. My neighbour has the same horn on his RT and his will sound as long as he pushes the button.

    Any ideas?[​IMG]

    Bob
  8. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    The length of wire supplied that goes to the horn, can reach all the way back to the area above the battery compartment, where the relay will reside. From there, go straight to the battery. Don't worry, you won't be able to toot your horn with the key turned off.

    Why are you drawing power from the centech fusebox? How did you get a 12 gauge wire into the centech fuesbox too? from the relay, you go to the battery, with the supplied inline ATO fuse holder. The supplied ATO fuseholder is on a 12 gauge lead. The +ve lead goes to the battery and the negative to a solid ground, anywhere you can find it on the frame.

    It should work perfectly.
  9. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    GB,

    Normally I get wiring done right the first time and for some reason I am having a problem with this one. So here goes on my set-up.

    1. In a previous post I asked about the guage wire to use and the response was the wire supplied with the kit was fine so that is what I used, which I believe is 14ga. There is no indication on the wire itself but my wire cutter fit perfectly at that GA.

    2. My Centech is attached directly to the battery using 10 ga. The + and - terminals on the Centech for hooking accessories will take up to 12 ga no problem. I already have an accessory plug connected with the 12 ga so I know that works fine.

    Anyway back to my install:

    - I followed the instructions to a letter that I received from AW along with the kit. The difference, that I can see, between AW's instructions and Big Dom's is in AW's the brown wire is not used. Big Dom has the brown wire going to #85. But I followed AW from the instruction sheet.
    a) the pin goes to the green wire, which goes to terminal 86.
    b) horn + goes to 87
    c) horn - goes to 85 (on piggyback)
    d) battery + goes to 30. Here I use the + on Centech to 30.
    e) battery - goes to 85 (on piggyback). Here I use the - on Centech to 85.

    Since 14 ga wire was being used for all the connections I also used 14 ga from the Centech to the relay. I have a 15 amp fuse in the Centech.

    I even tried anoth relay thinking maybe my relay is defective. Same thing.

    In previous posts it was said that the CANBUS is an issue but since I am going directly to the Battery/Centech I believe this should be ok.
  10. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    Some have found a 20 amp fuse works better. The way the AWS kit wants you to wire the relay is not how I'd wired mine on my other bike, so I followed the instructions exactly. Be sure the piggyback is on tightly.

    Have you tried bypassing the centech and going straight from the relay to the battery? Did you hook up the "pin" into the bike's horn harness correctly (i.e. the right hole). It's gotta work, I've wired two 12GS's with the AWS kit and both worked right the first time. We've gotta solve this mystery.
  11. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the support GB.

    My mission today is to rewire everything. I am off to CDN Tire to get some new quick connects. Will let you know how it works out.

    Bob
  12. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    Well I have tried a number of thing with no luck.
    1. Wired the horn directly to the battery and the horn works quite well.
    2. Checked all the wires and everything looks great.
    3. Hooked it up directly to the battery instead of my Centech and same problem.
    4. I tried something different. When I turned on the ignition I hit the horn button immediately and the horn blasted perfectly. Then as soon as the diagnostics were completed the horn cut out and back to the same issue.

    The only wire I have not looked at is the pin because I would have to remove the heat shrink. But, since the horn button activates the horn I would think that it is ok.

    I am truely at a loss here.:bluduh
    HELP!!

    Bob
  13. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    You are sure that you have wired the leads to the relay exactly as it is shown in the wiring diagram from AWS? There are 2 leads that must be piggy backed onto 1 terminal of the relay. If you wire it the way it is shown on the Stebel box, it won't work properly on this bike.

    Also, are you sure you put the pin in the correct hole in the bike's horn connector? I just had a look at mine, but due to the heat shrinking, I can't tell which of the 2 wires I have put the pin into.. you're sure you've put it in the right one?

    If you've done it all correctly and you still can't get it to work, I'm totally stumped..
  14. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    Still no luck. Checked the pin and it is going to the green wire so it's getting the signal. I tried, no fuse, 15 amp fuse and 20 amp fuse. No luck.

    The instructions I received from AW was text only with no pictures. I checked the wireing 3 or 4 times and it is fine. My son also checked it and it is exactly according to the instructions.

    Again, when I turn the key and press the horn button immediately, it works ok until the diagnostics kick in, then it shuts down. So this must be a Canbus issue.

    I thought this set up would bypass the Canbus. It doesn't appear to. So how do I bypass the Canbus
    I am also stumped:bluduh

    GB, where in Toronto are you?

    This is what the text instructions say:
    #3. Install supplied wire with pin into the side of the plug with the green wire.
    #4, Install pre-assempled wire with flag connector and red band onto (+) terminal of horn.
    #5. Install remaining pre-assempled wire onto (-) terminal of horn.
    #9. The wire with red band from horn will go to #87 terminal on relay.
    #10. The wire from (-) side of horn will go to #85 terminal on relay using the piggyback connector
    #12. ......... run a wire from terminal #30 through the supplied inline fuse onto the positive side of battery.
    #13. .......... from piggyback connector on #85 terminal to negative side of battery.

    I have done this so often that I now have it memorized.

    Bob
  15. GPM

    GPM Adventurer

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    Don't know if this will be of any help or not. I have mine wired the same, through a Centech. I haven't tried an extended honk, but what I have seen is repeated honks and the horn stops working. If I cycle the ignition, the horn resumes working.

    When the bike is serviced, a horn fault shows up. It's reporting too low of a draw. I'm guessing that my repeated honks sets the code over and over and at some point the system shuts the horn down. Your long honk may be having the same effect. Remember you are interfacing with the Canbus through that pin connection and it is only seeing the relay, not the expected stock horn.

    My electrical knowledge is limited at best, so the above is really just a wild guess. But, I'm sticking with it.
  16. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    Bob,

    Before you do anything else, canbus will not reset itself until you fire the engine up and if the fault is cleared, it will clear itself (reset). Have you been just honking when the engine off?

    Now that you've checked everything, it's hooked up to the battery, start the engine and hit the horn and see if it's cleared or not.

    i'm in the east end, just north of the beaches.
  17. CaptTurbo

    CaptTurbo Long timer

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    I have these horns mounted on a '93PD and a '03 R1150 soI didn't have the Canbus issues to worry about but a thought occurs to me that maybe you could somehow wire the OEM horn to run as well in a way that the Canbus will see the draw. Does this seem plausible?
  18. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    You can't bypass the can if you want to use the existing horn switch. If you install your own horn switch and leave the meep meep on, then you can bypass the canbus...

    Don't give up just yet though.. it's worked for everyone else.

    Now that you're sure it's wired correctly, start the bike and see if the fault is cleared.
  19. GB

    GB . Administrator Super Moderator Super Supporter

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    No can do, the wiring kit supplied with this horn for the 12GS, uses the original horn harness to activate the horn.
  20. TheDuke

    TheDuke Been here awhile

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    GB,

    The mystery continues. I started the engine, let it run for a minute, hit the horn button and still the same old problem. A short blast of a second and then cut off.

    The OEM plug has both a green and brown wire. I beleive the brown wire is the ground. Should it be connected to a ground. I am grasping at straws now. I don't think it has to be since the signal gets grounded through the relay.

    I believe BigDom has that brown wire going to terminal #85 on the relay which is the ground. I don't think I should have to do this. One of the reasons I went with the kit was to avoid cutting into the OEM wires.

    Are the instructions from AW accurate[​IMG]

    Bob