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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by Artboy57, Feb 27, 2006.
that's a big honkin' horn! Very well installed with that makeshift bracket.
It kinda looks larger in red and in the photos than it is ... it is the standard Stebel Nautilus before the introduction of the compact version. Great piece of kit, fits great and fooking LOUD! (especially necessary in the Third World!)
I have both the compact and the big one, but figured there was no room for the big one under there.. I guess there is! I'll keep this in mind should I need to replace it some day! Thanks for posting!
Hey AFekete, I just ordered the Nautilus and install kit for it for my new 1200 GS Adventure. I've seen in a couple of posts that your taking off for a while, have you left yet. :) Just curious on when I can expect the package (in case you did leave already, in which case, no reply means not for a while...). Any chance you can have a quick peek and make sure I ordered the right stuff to? I'm a bit retarded that way and murphys law says even though its an easy ass order, I've probably gotten something wrong. I'm the king of that.
Andrew won't be responding to you here. Call him directly or maybe try emailing. He's stated that responding to threads here is too time consuming and can't do it on a regular basis.
I saw his number on the other page but didn't want to be to big a pain in the ass.
Ok - generally my newly fitted Stebel works great but it has twice switched out/fault coded while riding ... not sure if this is because of too long or repeated use. Resets fine. I powered it direct from battery and it is switched through supplied relay from OEM horn button. I recall somewhere someone suggesting an inline resistor was necessary but I thought that the relay eliminated this need? I have gone back and resecured the ground wire incase this was not the best connection. Suggestions?
Thats what I was afraid of. The relay draw is too low so the computer thinks there is a problem with the horn. The best solution IMO is to find a relay that uses trigger power that is the same draw as the stock horn and then takes the excess power from the battery. That way the computer would be fooled. Problem is that there is no such relay. Does it only do it when you hold it on? Have you gotten a fault on start up?
No such relay, as it would be called a load resistor.
I suggest leaving the stocker connected as well, if there's room. That way you have a backup and no faults.
FWIW, I have computed and posted before as to what type of resistor is needed for headlight related faults. The same could also be done on the horn circuit.
Someone was looking for the wiring directions, you need a magnifying glass to see them so here is a scanned version.
Seems to work fine for about 6 hoots then if used for either long hoot or multiple repeats seems to trip fault. I guess I should maybe just wire the OEM back in as a backup and for the resistance for the CANBUS as suggested here by drdata ... hopefully it will not then register too much resisitance and also shut down. Will have to look at the ADV Workshop loom - wonder how it differs from what I did?
Instead of wiring in the old horn, why not just wire in a 12v light bulb, like a #1156 - in parallel with the new horn control relay coil? The resulting current would be closer to the original horn's. Same principle as the LED brake light - resistors are wired in parallel with the LED's to increase the load current, thereby fooling the ABS control.
Maybe drdata or someone else who is electricly advantaged can work out what sizwe inline resistor would work?
What size fuse is in line with the horn? On my 2000 GS it's 7.5 amp. I never measured the horn current (would be easy to do with a multimeter), but I would try a 5 or 6 ohm, 20 watt resistor in parallel (not in series/inline) with your relay coil. This would draw around 2 amps, which would be a big jump over the < 100ma the relay coil draws.
I've not had any trouble tooting my horn on my 12GS using the ADVworkshop wiring kit. The wiring however, is not as I would have wired it using the relay. There is a piggy back attachment that hooks up 2 inputs onto 1 terminal on the relay. Plus, there's a clever little pin that slides into the OEM harness so you don't need to cut it.
You might want to wire it the way the advworkshop kit suggests wiring it. Unfortunately, I don't have that list in front of me right now.. maybe someone has it handy and wants to post it.
I wired my Stebel according to the instructions in the mounting kit. On at least one occasion, the horn stopped working after 6-10 toots. After re-starting the bike it worked fine. I haven't attempted to recreate the problem.
I was also told by the service tech that I was getting horn faults. They assumed it was drawing too much power. After I explained how it was wired, they reluctantly agreed that it could be due to too low a draw.
This is exactly what mine is doing.
Please ley me have the directions as to which 2 onto 1 piggy back it is, when you get a chance. I have cut into the OEM harness, no worries with little pin connectors with me there.
Note: Its a resistor in parallel, not in-line.
Here is the link to post on taillight and led modules inducing similar faults.
I can't recall how much current the OEM horn drew. Gonna go see if I can find it.
Update: The markings on the OEM horn are too cryptic for me to ferret out today. I am running a Fiam freeway blaster in place of OEM horn, and its rated @ 5A. More OEM-ish looking disk horns are rated at 4A, and small compact disk horns are listed but w/o a current rating at:
Given this, I tend to think that the that the OEM horn came in between 2-3 A. I do not believe the current sense is that accurate, in that it probably looks for a gross open/short type condition. As such a current draw over 1A but =< than 5 A will be enough to keep the bikes computer happy. This means a resistor arrangement similar to that speced out for the brake light should also work in the horn application, because it yields ~ 1.75 A @ 12V.
I must admit the idea of the light bulb as load resistor is intriguing. Primarily because their easy to find and test with. I would be concerned about the stray light/heat, long-term reliability, and wonder if the fact that the bulb's resistance grows from 0 (short) to whatever its run-time current rating equates to as the filament heats, might cause faults to register. Light bulbs are sometimes used as a type of self-regulating fuse by TV repair techs, because with no short the bulb is more or less absent from the circuit, but as current increases (short is present) the bulb begins to represent more and more resistance. Its possible that the transit high-current draw as the bulb is lighting might trip a fault, but I suspect some level of debounce protection (tolerance for transient spikes) is built into the check circuitry.
I'm going to have to get one ... been following this thread with intent to buy.