Stroking my Banshee for Kenny.

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Wildebeest90210, Jul 27, 2017.

  1. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    True that, but if you can hear a dry clutch over the wail of the exhausts then I'll have got something very wrong :D
    #81
  2. Bigbore4

    Bigbore4 Long timer

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    Ahh Grasshopper, you only hear it when she's pulled in.
    #82
  3. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    Yep, even then!
    #83
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  4. Bigbore4

    Bigbore4 Long timer

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    OK so now you are on the hook for High Def Audio. Keep it coming!
    #84
  5. larryboy

    larryboy Stable genius.

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    Flap disc on a grinder will clean that edge down fast to the point where you want to go slower with a file.
    #85
  6. dpforth

    dpforth no inline fours

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    Loud Clutches Save Lives
    #86
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  7. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    No pics on this page! I been doing some boring non-photogenic jobs but....
    New studs in the top crank case..

    IMG_2138.JPG


    A nice pic of my billet thermostat housing from MBD.

    IMG_2136.JPG


    Oil sealed up the crank and dropped it in to the cases. I'm waiting for titanium case bolts to arrive tomorrow before I close the cases, 53 fasteners in Ti ordered, I had to pour a large one :photogbefore hitting 'confirm' on the order....


    IMG_2129.JPG

    For Banshee/RZ/RD nerds, the pins in the outer races of the main bearings that usually locate in the cut outs front of the case on the standard RZ are replaced on the Hot rods crank by o' rings. They stop the outer race from spinning in the case and also centralise at the same time! Now where is that bored as f#ck emoji,...:snore
    #87
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  8. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    How is an O-ring going to stop the bearing from rotating ?
    On my '77 RD400 the pins went into the holes in the upper case half, as seen in the first pic of the above post.
    Where the o-rings go was a half circle circlip to prevent the bearing from moving side to side.
    I'd be freaking out about now putting your engine together.
    #88
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  9. waylongway

    waylongway madmax Supporter

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    :drink.......:cob........:knary

    :jjen........:bueller........:augie
    #89
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  10. more koolaid

    more koolaid Been here awhile

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    IMG_2129.JPG
    Looks like a gearheads wet dream
    #90
  11. Bigbore4

    Bigbore4 Long timer

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    <snip>
    And I suppose that the heathen you are you didn't put ice in it when you poured it? Good whiskey needs some ice and a tad of water to bring out the smooooooth.
    #91
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  12. nickguzzi

    nickguzzi Long timer

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    I think it's most likely whisky, not whiskey. Adding ice is a rare affectation here.
    #92
  13. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    This from FAQ on the Hot rods website...
    'The OEM PTO main bearing has a small set pin (actually a ball) that must be located in the proper location in the cases. Failure to locate this pin will force the bearing out of round when the cases are clamped. This is not an issue with the Hot Rods Banshee cranks. Hot Rods has eliminated these locating pins and replaced them with o-rings. These o-rings help keep the cases sealed around the entire surface of the bearing and keep the bearing from spinning.
    O-Rings are much better than set pins as the O-Ring will help stabilize the bearings in engine cases that are becoming worn.'

    The drive side does not have the o'ring but both gearbox and that side main have the half circlips for location. The crank and seals all fit perfectly and all feels good so it's all bolted up. I did though take heed of the loss of pin from that main and added a smear of Loctite 641.
    With the help of my titanium obsession.....


    IMG_2139.JPG


    My friends for this stage...

    IMG_2142.JPG

    All the bolts top and bottom have cast numbers for torque sequence, I forgot why I always was Yamaha :D

    IMG_2150.JPG

    And we are all together now :beer All topped off with some lovely flanged Ti nuts :dukegirl

    IMG_2154.JPG



    #93
  14. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    I have access to these scales (no it's not a meth lab) so I thought I'd weigh my pistons with a view to maybe static balancing them. I didn't expect them to need anything but I got 0.1544 gram difference so I weighed some ally swarf and found it to be a relatively large amount so I set about the heavy one with file and drill. Never done this before so why not give it a go.

    IMG_2156.JPG IMG_2157.JPG

    So I got it to here, scales set to measure difference. This will do I think, lets not get too OCD:loco.

    IMG_2165.JPG

    I started by filing off some little casting lugs by the wrist pin, you can just see inboard of the two pin lube holes. That removed practically nothing so I gradually drilled the two casting lumps where the two ring pegs are located and eventually got there, a little nerve wracking but good fun. Will it make any difference, maybe 0.0021 HP :lift

    IMG_2169.JPG
    #94
  15. waylongway

    waylongway madmax Supporter

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    #95
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  16. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    This is my new 5 axis milling facility. This roughed out and may be allowed in to the garage for hand finishing, that sounds wrong...happy finishing, no that's worse :fpalm



    IMG_2178.JPG

    And this my al fresco hole manufacturing plant.

    IMG_2179.JPG

    IMG_2180.JPG
    #96
  17. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    #97
  18. waylongway

    waylongway madmax Supporter

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    [​IMG]

    :tb
    #98
  19. Wildebeest90210

    Wildebeest90210 Long timer Supporter

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    Squish time, I'm going for 1.4mm as that's what I did on my last big 2T Husky with no probs for 97 octane pump and a quick google tells me this is probably good for this motor.

    Pistons in with base basket and cylinders nipped. No rings yet, also need to investigate the small end clearance, do I need thrust washers on the wrist pin?

    IMG_2183.JPG

    Heads on and nipped tight the solder goes in through the plug hole out to the squish band and the crank turned over TDC by hand. First pot with my solder twist gives between 1.21mm and 1.25 measured in a few places.

    IMG_2187.JPG

    Second one between 1.03 and 1.05

    IMG_2188.JPG

    So as you see from my squiggles on the bench I'll take the lowest one and then get the difference up to 1.4mm machined off the squish band in the domes. They are separate from the head to allow them to be swapped for a different size (mine are 21cc) and for ease of maintenance etc. I repeated the whole tightening and measuring process twice with the same results so happy to machine these measurements.

    IMG_2190.JPG
    #99
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  20. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer Supporter

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    I'm surprised by the large difference between the two. Is the error in the combustion chamber, or how the chamber sits in the head casting.
    I'd be curious to swap inserts left to right and remeasure the squish. If the squish remains the same then I'd suspect an error in the headcasting. If it moves with the insert then the error is in the insert.
    But is it in the combustion chamber side or the headcasting side ?

    Anyway, thanks for the step by step. Really enjoying this, and making me look on Craig's List for RDs and RZs.