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Stupid trials question thread...

Discussion in 'Trials' started by Garthe, Nov 2, 2014.

  1. lineaway

    lineaway Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    12,402
    The Gasser has a unique clutch that does not allow much in the way of adjustment at the lever. Last month I rode a Pro with Amsoil in the tranny. It was very progressive. The Gasser is better with Atf in it for upper level riders which need the instant hit with the clutch on the big stuff.
  2. Hyperbolic22

    Hyperbolic22 Been here awhile

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    Nov 16, 2014
    Oddometer:
    105
    Location:
    Southern California
    I run Ford type F ATF in my Gasser. I love the feel of my clutch.
  3. no2tracks

    no2tracks Been here awhile

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    Jan 16, 2009
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    514
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    Co. Springs
    Exactly! I don't want the instant hit. I want more slippage between free spin and lock up.

    Bob, yours had constant drag and never released for a free spin while the lever was pulled back.
  4. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Oct 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,051
    Location:
    Minneapolis, Ks
    Yamalube's 0w-20 or 4-30, it is synthetic MOTOR oil, works great for most riders below experts or above, like Lineaway. OR even easier to buy is Mobil 1.
    I like it because you can ease the clutch out instead of that annoying clutch lurch you see new riders fight.
  5. slicktop

    slicktop Long timer

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    Is it necessary to run a motor oil rated for wet clutch?
  6. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Oct 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    uh, hard to see what your question is alluding to, but that is what I have been using every since it has been somewhat accepted that the BLUE GM AUTOTRAC II transmission fluid we were using, was causing issues with fiber parts of the clutch packs.

    If you think about it, being aware of the demands on the clutch and stuff, the oils used, make a difference... I call it more like one more possible "adjustment." When I started riding gasgas bikes, with my 1999 TXT (old stype engines) I swapped the oil for ATF-Type F, F because that is what I had bookoo bunches of... and used, a lesser amount than the manual suggested, as that information was given to me via the TECH GURU (Jon Stoodley, you see his tech stuff on gasgas website and tech pages). then we found out different values of the ATF made the clutch acti differently. when we quit the auto-trac stuff, I needed to find something that worked like it did, so did my friends in the trials community, and my best friend and mechanic suggested the Yamalube snowmobile engine oil (0-20w) synthetic oil, his son and he, liked the clutch feel, and well so did I.

    oil is NOT oil... on the opposite end, my friend had an early Sherco, sold it to get a PRO engined gasgas, decided he still had the bel-ray shit he was using in his sherco... changed the oil, and called me and said "something went terribly wrong with the clutch on this thing, could I help and see before we call my best friend and mechanic. I came over, and by deduction I found he'd used belray whatever it was, instead of what I and 99% of the gasgas "COMPETITORS" were recommending (yes there is a huge difference between some wrencher and competitors) had said he should use. I have to admit, I wouldn't have given it much thought, and tried it too, but wow... the clutch was just like it was belt drive like your garden tractor type cheapy sears lawnmower....

    so have fun, experiment, or just try some advice...

    LASTLY in the PRO ENGINE GASGAS, the MAIN CRANK BEARINGS ARE LUBED BY whatever you use in the transmission/clutch area, the clutch will give off DEBRIS. YOU will NEED TO CHANGE THIS VERY OFTEN. no more than 10 hours of riding time. I usually ride a lot, and change the oils just before the trials each month. when we ride more events per month, change more often you know.
  7. slicktop

    slicktop Long timer

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    :freaky
    Thats pretty much what i'm getting at.
    People use Rotella, considered a good oil.
    It was mentioned that mobile1 is good oil, and I agree.
    Would I cry over the fact that I could only find Napa 40w for my 2t Beta?
    Nope. unless theres a reason.
  8. Sting32

    Sting32 Trials Evangelist

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    Oct 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    I see that point now, but not at first read.

    I think the belray product used in the sherco was light gear oil? and yes, each bike has its own bunch of special interest information, tweeks and all that. I didn't (even tried to say at the end) experiment or take advice, have fun (not being snarky at all).

    By all means I dont take advice on my gasgas from the beta guys, but when I have a beta I am working on, I do ask the beta guys. Most, like you have either tried something and found out the "hard way" or trial and error.

    neat thing about trials, there is more information available and it is more or less available in relatively few places to hunt for it, aka few websites, importers and or dealers... since 90% of the dealers are "competitors" instead of just bags of money and HR management, that is just used to make more bags of money, most of us learn to accel our own results...

    have fun.
  9. 1962siia

    1962siia Been here awhile

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    Nov 22, 2014
    Oddometer:
    214
    Location:
    Rohnert Park, Ca
    Noob sag question

    So I was able to get the rear sag set where I wanted it (2.25") but with the front preload fully cranked down I'm still off by a little over 1/4". I've contacted cannon racecraft and they can make some springs for a totally reasonable price but in the mean time would folks suggest I just ride the thing as is or whip up a spacer for the fork spring? If the spacer route, is there any way to guesstimate the size of the spacer needed? The bike is a 2007 scorpa sy250fr with 38mm paioli forks with the left side spring / right side cartridge. I came up with my sag numbers by using .333 x 170mm (rear travel) and .166 x 180mm (front travel).

    This is the first time I've set up a trials bike so feel free to advise me! Also I'm 6'2" about 195 with gear. Going to be ordering some rox risers for the bars next as I suspect I'm too hunched over with the stock set up. Thanks adv, you guys are a wealth of knowledge!
  10. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    In case you havent been informed, suspention on a trials bike is softer than any enduro/MX bike.

    On that note, the best starting point would be to set both front and rear to be as close to the same as possible so they work together and re-work in the future after you have had some time to learn riding technique with some other riders.

    As for risers, if you want to compete, don't use them ever... If you are to hunched over get a set of high bend trials bars instead. You will have a much better experience, and have much better controle, leverage, and avoide hitting the bars on hips or legs etc.

    Hope this helps
  11. 1962siia

    1962siia Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info. I read in a couple places that sag for a trials bike rear should be approx 1/3 of the rear travel and the front should be about 1/6 of the front travel so started there, although the front is a bit more than that completely maxed on preload. I'll look into higher bars too. Thanks again.
  12. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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  13. 1962siia

    1962siia Been here awhile

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  14. Ontario GS

    Ontario GS Budding Adv. Traveler

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    Feb 2, 2004
    Oddometer:
    434
    Location:
    Peterborough, ON, CA
    I went and checked out 2 bikes yesterday at a dealer, there was a 2009 Sherco 290 with the front forks removed as the front seals kept leaking. They advised they are replacing the front tubes (female) as they were "out of round" and were awaiting parts. The bike looked in good shape otherwise, normal rub-wear, etc., the skidplate had a few normal nicks & scraps but, nothing out of the ordinary.

    In my mind the forks would have to take a supreme beating to miss-shape the tubes but, wondered what others thought.
  15. DerViking

    DerViking Shred

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    I would assume bad manufacturer. I can't think of a scenario where riding would cause that.
  16. 1962siia

    1962siia Been here awhile

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    So there is a 9" space between my foot peg and the shift lever. With my size 46 euro boot I can shift if my heel is on the peg but otherwise my foot doesn't reach. I normally ride on the balls of my feet or just slightly behind them so shifting required major foot movement. Is this normal or should I be looking for a shorter shift lever or do I need to change where I put my feet on the pegs? Thx.
  17. jonnyc21

    jonnyc21 Trials Ninja

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    This is normal, when in compition you pick your gear and ride the section. The long lever prevents an accidental gear change. If you do want to change you find a slow spot or stop and balance (depending on the rules your riding - stop/no-stop).

    Some who trail ride only have shortened or changed levers but I do both trails and trials riding and have found that sticking with stock seems to work just fine for the way I ride.
  18. thetable

    thetable Long timer

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    I just take my foot off the peg to shift. Nothing worse than bumping into neutral.
  19. 1962siia

    1962siia Been here awhile

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    Nov 22, 2014
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    Do you guys run an odo or hours meter? Thinking it might be a good idea for maintenance purposes. If so any recommendations on a type or brand? Thx.
  20. broncobowsher

    broncobowsher Long timer

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    I don't.

    But an easy way to track it is fuel used. I have a special fuel can just for the bike.