Suggestions for a dragging LC4 clutch?

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by boyscout, May 24, 2007.

  1. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    The clutch on my 2002 LC4 Adventure has dragged for awhile now. It has a little over 13k miles on it. If I adjust the play in the cable to 5mm as the manual states, when warm, it pushes the bike forward and neutral is difficult to find at a stop.

    I recently installed a new clutch cable and had to spin the adjuster barrel almost half way out from the get go. I've adjusted the lever arm at the bottom of the cable to take up as much slack as possible. This seems a little weird to me, although I have very little experience with wet clutch bikes.

    Does this sound like worn out or warped clutch disks? If so should I just replace all the disks or measure them and replace those that are out of spec? I'm outfitting this bike for a long trip and want to err on the side of precaution.
    #1
  2. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    What kind of oil you got in there and how old is it?

    First... check these adjustments.

    [​IMG]

    The check these specs.

    [​IMG]

    Then do what ever it takes to make it right.

    c
    #2
  3. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    Rock Oil S4. About 600 miles since I changed it.

    The slot on my release shaft is well past parallel to the case seam. I guess I'll find out why this weekend.

    Thanks for the info.
    #3
  4. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    Well... Rock Synthisis 4 is good stuff, so that shouldn't be an issue. Not overfilled I would assume.

    If not the plates themselves, items 1, 2, 3 and 5 are all subject to wear. Another possibility is the drive plates (7) hanging up in grooves they developed in the basket (10).
    Although not easy to do... the plates can be warpped.

    Best 'O luck sorting it out.

    C
    #4
  5. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    Not currently :D

    I bought the bike used with very low miles. It was set up for a magazine test. They put about a thousand, I would assume, very hard miles on the bike. The clutch has always been a blunt instrument on it. I kind of assumed that's just the way they are, but maybe it's just been poorly adjusted or toast for as long as I've had it.
    #5
  6. gaspipe

    gaspipe Wandering Soul

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    Creeper is, as usual, on top of this like a chicken on a June bug. The LC4 clutch is a robust SOB.

    Soo000ooo.....pop that clutch cover off and have a look at the clutch basket. Mayhap you've got some wear and the friction plate 'fingers' are hanging up. You might be able to clean it up with some, uhh, precision filing. Less likely are the drive plates wearing the inner hub, but that's also somethign to look at when you have the clutch pack out.

    If that clutch basket looks at all wonky, and needs to be pulled, it's a good time to change that mainshaft bearing. Just sayin'.....

    Good luck.
    #6
  7. creeper

    creeper Still alive...

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    Think I'll run with that for awhile... beats runnin' with scissors. :smooch
    #7
  8. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    I've read the thread on that twice now. Just ordered all the parts today. I was going to start trying to track down a puller kit tomorrow.

    Ordered up the parts to rebuild the water pump too. They're backordered on a washer and a circlip (3 and 10 on the parts diagram) but I don't see why I can't reuse those.

    I'm hoping to get the clutch, the main bearing and the water pump done while my wheels are off in Colorado getting some much needed TLC. :deal
    #8
  9. todd83-900t

    todd83-900t Been here awhile

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    I'd recommend measuring the disks for warpage:

    Thread on warped disks


    Here's one metric for clutch drag. With the bike idling (1st gear & warm) and the clutch depressed, push the bike backwards with your feet while you're sitting on it. Repeat the experiment with the engine off. The forces should be approximately equal.

    force (idling) ~= force (off)
    #9
  10. boyscout

    boyscout sittin' down

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    So I finally got around to working on this. I'm actually pretty amazed at how good of shape the plates and basket are in. Everything measured out to spec and no warpage.

    There was way too much play in the pushrod. Once I set that correctly everything got a lot easier to adjust. I bet it has been this way since I bought the bike and has been the cause of my excessive clutch cable breakage.

    In addition it turns out the lever arm which rotates the clutch release shaft slips. Not sure which is worn the shaft or the lever but I think I am going to replace both.

    Thanks for the help.
    #10
  11. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Cheers all!

    Long time since last post! Been doin' some ridin'....which is not so bad....:D

    Long story short; changed both friction and steel plates and the springs too.
    Have the aftermarket Magura hydro clutch assembly.
    On the last ride I noticed the clutch is slipping but only at really high revs (7-8trpm) so I took the cover off and messed with the pushrod (#2 in creeper's post) setup and now I can't shift into second because it's not disengaging allmost at all.....

    :D


    So now....as I'm not so sure I'm understanding the instructions in the manual right....first you hold the clutch release shaft parallel to the casing then you screw it the pushrod in until it touches the clutch release shaft, you turn it back a bit and you should be ok....am I right??

    If I set it up like that the Magura "pull rod" is a bit short and I have to really force it to fit the nipple of the "pull rod" in the designated place (so now maybe it's not engaging fully-some tension could be on the springs?). But I should be able to adjust that by moving the clutch release lever a bit closer.....

    What I'm right about and what I'm wrong about? Advice? Pointers? Fool proof tutorial?

    Thanks!

    M.
    #11
  12. makazica

    makazica Been here awhile

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    Ignore the above post.
    I'm 99% sure everything is fine with the clutch, it seems that the aftermarket Magura hydro clutch setup is shot....

    M.
    #12
  13. Flyingbogey

    Flyingbogey n00b

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    Has anyone experience of removing the needle roller bearings (part 5) without splitting the engine cases?
    #13