Kenya's Suguta Valley eluded me for 5 years. It was my white whale. Shortly after I arrived in Kenya and began ogling her topography on Google Earth, I stumbled upon a small dot in the middle of an expanse of sandy gray. Zooming in, I could make out rolling dunes and the black dot became a dark volcanic cone jutting out of it all. Up the valley were other unique features, a volcanic cone like a tan castle and several crescent moons topped by Lake Logipi at the northern end of the Valley. Googling photos of the place, you come up with all manner of stunning images, all of which taken from someone on a posh helicopter tour. I became obsessed with riding there. Above: The Black Cone from above (credit: Jamie Gaymer) Above: The dunes from the Black Cone (credit: Jamie Gaymer) Problem is, Suguta Valley is notoriously one of the hottest places in Kenya, both in terms of temperature and tribal banditry. Talking of temperature, most of the year, the place is a murderous 50C/120F which had stopped me because during the relatively cool time of the year I am usually busy. On the tribal front, the Turkana, who argue they have ownership (if you can call it that) to the place, raid and are raided by the Pokot from the West and South and the Samburu from the East, making the Valley a hotbed of concern as it is on the edge of these tribal lines and a perfect place for bandits to hide out. AK-47s are everywhere, and it would be nice not to be on the muzzle end of one. The place was loaded with uncertainty. Sometimes, you just have to go. August is a cool month in Kenya and I had two XRR rider friends who were also dying to take on the challenge. I had been given tracks from a friend (thanks, Vincent) and had spent hours looking myself on Google Earth and the web, even finding and reading a PhD thesis on the tribal situation and calling the author for advice (thanks, Willis). So, we went for it. Above: And we made it. Above: Quick teaser Hang in there while I pull together the rest of the story.