Super Sherpa thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by AZstrommer, Sep 3, 2007.

  1. OU812

    OU812 Legend in my own Mind! Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    19,338
    Location:
    Sleepy Hollow IL
    I installed new ignition(tks to you here!)
    wheel bearings and tires on GF's Sherpa and she rode it 0 this season.
    I took it out to just get new fuel through it with SEAFOAM.
    Now I wish she sell it just to make room in my small storage area.

    Dayum girls! ;) 20191116_125557.jpg
  2. Bluesmudge

    Bluesmudge Been here awhile

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    Portland, OR
    In my research I couldn't find one that is an exact fit. A few will work but have slightly different shapes vs the stock screw and might create problems.
    My solution was to order a carburetor tool kit that comes with a stubby screwdriver designed to turn the mixture screw. Works great.

    Example:
    [​IMG]
    https://www.partzilla.com/product/aftermarket/3WDE-BIKEMASTER-18-0001
    gibbo-56 likes this.
  3. Notyourpop

    Notyourpop Been here awhile

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    n/w territories
    Being cheap, I took an electricians wiring nut (hope he don't need it) and a 1/4" flat tipped screwdriver bit. I heated the bit and melted it into the wiring nut to make a super short screwdriver to get to the air screw.
    gibbo-56, Bluesmudge and tlrmark like this.
  4. gibbo-56

    gibbo-56 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    Broome, West Oz
    Thanks Bluesmudge and Notyourpop appreciate your input, I had also compared the business ends of the screw and wasn’t game to try it. Of course if the carb was a little easier to get out it would help.
    Thanks again, Gibbo
  5. SloCalSpode

    SloCalSpode Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2007
    Oddometer:
    123
    I bought one of these and they seem to be an exact copy of the stock air screw tip.

    http://stenhouseracing.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1

    Seems on the web site they are "out of stock" maybe a few emails of calls might get them
    to restart production.
    The one I got works perfectly.
    Cheers, Jeff

  6. gibbo-56

    gibbo-56 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    33
    Location:
    Broome, West Oz
    Hi SloCal, tried everywhere for this part, no luck, it appears a special run for the KTM640, HOWEVER, whilst doing the research I discovered the KTM and the DR650 both used a BST40 carb. So now I know the BST40 screw suits our BST3? I went to the DR650 parts heaven, Procycle and bingo, they have two styles of the extended air screw available. So thanks for the tip that led me to the part.
    Cheers Gibbo
  7. NWRambler

    NWRambler Been here awhile

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    Jan 11, 2013
    Oddometer:
    254
    Location:
    Northwestest US
    JT sprockets #JTF569 fits the SS and a ton of other bikes. So presumably any sprocket off any of these bikes should work. Bunch of sizes too. The list of bikes is here:
    http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/sprocket/JTF569/
    Bluesmudge and tlrmark like this.
  8. jkam

    jkam Nomadic Man

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2001
    Oddometer:
    7,725
    Location:
    Somewhere out there
    Having rear brake issues with my 2003 Sherpa.
    Back in January had new pads installed front and rear.
    At the time, my rear brake had stopped working, again.
    No leaks and the shop bled them and all was good.
    This is like the second time this has happened.
    Rode bike around until March when it got put on my RV rack for about 6 weeks of traveling.
    Unloaded it and rear brake no longer worked.
    Rode around for a few months again with no rear brake until I got back to Tucson.
    Back to shop and no leaks and bled brakes and said all is good.

    Something isn't good. But what can it be without a visible leak anywhere?

    Air getting into the master cylinder somehow.
  9. NWRambler

    NWRambler Been here awhile

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    When you say the brakes don't work, do you mean the pads don't move? Or they feel too soft? Or they simply fail to slow the bike? Different implications for each.
  10. jkam

    jkam Nomadic Man

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    The pads don't slow the bike down. Air in the lines, every time.
    No visible leak, so how is air getting into the system?
  11. MikeS

    MikeS Fur shur! Vamos! Supporter

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2003
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    South of the Border on the Minnesota Riviera
    Assuming your brakes were fine before installing new pads, except of course for needing pads:

    Did you clean the perimeter of the pucks when you installed new pads? Procedure: With pads removed, apply brake pedal/lever enough to expose the sides of the pucks. Don't do it so much that you punch the pucks out of the casting. Spray brake cleaning fluid on to the sides of the pucks to remove the crud. Use brake cleaning fluid! A tooth brush works for scrubbing, but don't use anything abrasive that will scratch the pucks. Clean it so there are no stray specks of crud. Don't damage the rubber seal at the base of the pucks. I've had your problem when I don't clean the pucks, and cleaning the pucks usually works for me; next step would be new rubber seals.
  12. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    You have a strange situation. Here is what I believe caused it. As your brake pads wear, the rear brake pistons are pushed out further and further. As the pistons move outwards, brake fluid is pulled from the master cylinder. The removed fluid, is replaced by air. That air should be on top of the rubber bladder, which is on top of the fluid. The bladder separates the fluid from the air. If when you had the pads first replaced, there was not sufficient fluid in the master cylinder, then there would have been air below the bladder. As your fluid was displaced from the master cylinder, eventually air was pushed into your line instead of fluid. This is assuming 2 things, significant wear of the pads and insufficient fluid in the master cylinder.
  13. NWRambler

    NWRambler Been here awhile

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    I think Windborne is spot on.
  14. jkam

    jkam Nomadic Man

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    This is the third time this has happened.
    First time, rear brake just stopped working. Pedal to the floor.
    Bled brakes and they were OK for years.
    Next time, the pads were replaced both front and rear, rear needed bled again.
    This time, bike was ridden for a few months after bled, then put on my RV rack for a few months.
    Removed bike from rack with no rear brake. Bled brake and all is good.
    Shop that did some of the work thinks it might be from bouncing around on the rack, letting air in somehow.
    I don't get it.
    Caliper looks fine, no unusual wear on the piston and seals seem intact.
    I picked it up from the shop yesterday and will see how it goes this time.
  15. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    The air can only get in if it is below the diaghram in the master cylinder. That's the purpose of the diaghram. Imagine the bouncing that a MX bike gets, far worse than any motorhome will give it. I suppose you could have a tear or hole in the diaghram letting air through. easy to check. Also easy to check the fluid level.
  16. jkam

    jkam Nomadic Man

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    I will look at the diaphragm for tears. That seems the only logical answer.

    Thanks.
  17. Chrisbarnes1

    Chrisbarnes1 Long timer Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,165
    Location:
    Market Deeping, Lincs UK
    high guys--I'm in the UK (not a market for the sherpa so mine's an import)-after a dunking in a river my stock display is missing some digits. I've had it apart and even took the LCD screen off the circuit board and stripped it and made sure all was dry and clean--still the same when reassembled. I can live with it but if someone has a working stock display hanging about and is willing to part with it then please let me know. I could probably get a genuine replacement but it would cost more than the bike! Apart from some leaky valve stem seals (and I have all the parts to do the job) which creates a smoke cloud occasionally on start up its been a great little workhorse--I'll do the stem seals when I'm not using it--once started it runs well and doesn't use oil. I also have a pumper carb off a Honda CB250RS single which I'm going to try when I take it apart.
  18. Windborne11

    Windborne11 Been here awhile

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    Aug 23, 2018
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    East of the West Coast
    https://www.kijiji.ca/v-motorcycle-other/ottawa/kawasaki-sherpa-250-parts-for-sale/1448657348 Parting out SS.
  19. Mr. Ray

    Mr. Ray Glistening Shaft Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Slower, Not Slowest.
    Anyone have experience with the koubalink lowering links? My girlfriend is 5'1" and can technically touch the ground on the Sherpa, but flatfoot might be better.

    Thanks for any feedback
  20. V0R2G0

    V0R2G0 Been here awhile

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    May 30, 2016
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    Vancouver Island