Super Tenere Gear Coupling Keeps Wearing Out. Fixed....

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Bigguy136, Dec 29, 2019.

  1. Bigguy136

    Bigguy136 Been here awhile

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    I have about 65,000 miles on my 2014 Super Tenere. At 32,000 miles, I went thru my bike because I went to Inuvik, Canada with a fair amount of mud and wanted to be sure all was good.
    I saw some oil in the area when I pulled the rear end off. I saw the seal cut thru the Coupling, Gear 23P-46123-00-00 so I bought a new one (seal looked good) and replaced. I put a lot of silicone grease when assembling.
    Now at 65,000 miles (33,000 on coupler) I again took it apart and saw a cut mark on the coupler and the seal was still looking perfect. I decided it was time to machine it down and change the material the seal rides on. The seal surface was 50.0MM dia. I turned it down to 48MM, turned a sleeve made from 17-4SS and pressed it on with .0025" press fit. I left the OD a bit big, indicated on the center spline to be running to .002" TIR and turned the OD to 50.00MM. Will see how it looks after another 30,000 miles. I'm still taking everything apart but everything else looks perfect. Hopefully this fix will allow me to go another 100,000 without touching it.

    Here is the part I'm taking about:
    SharedScreenshot.jpg

    Here is the coupler with notch. Notch was .008" deep.
    20191229_150314.jpg

    I turned it down to 48MM dia. Here it is before pressing the ring on.
    20191229_172815.jpg

    With the ring pressed on
    20191229_172944.jpg

    And finished to 50MM with chamfer.
    20191229_175820.jpg
    #1
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  2. steve68steve

    steve68steve Long timer

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    Envy the tools, shop, and ability!

    Am I reading you right? - you're saying the oil seal is cutting the coupler? That 8 thou notch on the OEM part is damage, not machined intentionally?
    #2
  3. Bigguy136

    Bigguy136 Been here awhile

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    Thanks!!

    Correct, the notch was worn in from the seal. This has happened on two different couplers. First one was when the bike was new and 2nd one was brand new OEM replacement. I'm sure many other people have the same issue but nobody is removing the rear end and looking. The leak won't drip oil on the ground and goes unnoticed.
    Seal is still factory original and looks perfect. I assume the coupler alloy was picked to work with the driveshaft but it doesn't work well with the seal.
    #3
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  4. Motomantra

    Motomantra Registered Lurker

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    The Japs are pretty clever, sometimes. I wonder if they've updated those two parts.
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  5. Bigguy136

    Bigguy136 Been here awhile

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    No. Not sure if they will. When the oil gets past the seal, it has to leak up hill so there typically isn't anything dripping on the ground. If you remove the rear end, you will likely see oil and dirt where it should be clean and dry. Acceptable, maybe but I have crossed a few rivers and hopefully many more to come. I want to know my rear end is sealed for 150,000+ more miles.
    #5
  6. old1959

    old1959 Been here awhile

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    Interesting that the seal is "harder" material than the coupler. How much are these parts to buy? If not too expensive, one could consider them a consumable...
    #6
  7. advmgm

    advmgm Long timer

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    I had this same issue with my 2005 FJR 1300 at about the same mileage. They replaced the coupling and now at 125,000 miles it looks like its leaking again?
    #7
  8. Bigguy136

    Bigguy136 Been here awhile

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    I wouldn't say the seal is harder, just the metal in the coupler is not compatible with the seal. My last FJ1200 had 182,000 miles on it and the spacer behind the front sprocket never had anything more than a polished look from the seal. I remember back in the late 80's and there was a repair kit for harmonic balancers on Chevys. The seal would do the same thing and they had a paper thin stainless sleeve that would get loc-tite on.
    Crazy that a rubber seal can wear steel but you can even see that the seal was a double lip seal and what angles the seal was made at.
    The OEM retail price is $157.00 and on-line price at $112.17. In addition to that, you should replace the lock-nut and will also have to pull the drive shaft from the coupler and also replace that seal.
    If other things needed replacing, I would be good with just calling it a consumable but nothing else wears out. I have seen a few rear-ends fail and I'm not sure if some dirt was able to get past a worn coupler and was the real cause of the failure. After all, this rear-end was made for the FJR1300 with 50% more power and those are living.
    #8
  9. Bigguy136

    Bigguy136 Been here awhile

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    I also have a FJR1300 with 95,000 miles on it. For some time, I have seen some dark/ dirty area around the weep hole. I washed the bike enough that it never was very noticeable. When I'm done inspecting the front end of my Tenere and all is back together, I will look at my FJR. I am expecting the same thing. FJR has spent 100% of its life on tar roads so if it's worn, it will definitely confirm material issue rather than caused by river crossings and many miles of mud roads.
    #9