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Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by Damian_74, May 9, 2019.
Wow, those look great!
That GT250 brought back fond memories, my first proper bike in 1974, brand new (my first bike was a Honda 90). Same metallic red as well.
Remember back in 1980 when I was 17 having a ride on a mates gt250a , it hadall the mods and seemed to be both physically huge and massively fsst compared to my Honda SL125.
Fast forward 2008 after a diet of litre plus bikes including a katana 1100 and a BMW R1150gsa and a bike dealer mate took a restored one in part ex , my god it felt like a moped , still great fun though
Some progress - have been searching through eBay after my parts failure with Cruzinimage.
Most of the parts I need are on eBay but when the freight is added, it starts to get expensive due to the multiple sellers (hence multiple postage).
For a laugh I took my list to my local Suzuki dealer and was pleasantly surprised - kicking myself for not going there first.
For the engine rebuild all but the conrods and one gearbox bearing were available - and at reasonable prices.
New rims - Front $67, Rear $88.
Spoke sets - Front $37 Rear $52.
Complete clutch lever and mount - $40
Now if I can find the time we might be able to get somewhere soon!!!!!
Special day - on leave and everyone out of the house!!!!!
Time to tinker in the shed.
There is a oil dam under the bearing on one end and a seal on the other that prevents me from getting the knife edges under the bearing.
Had a scrap of 6061 25x60mm left over form another job.
Milled flat and bolted them together to make a split pair.
Machined to a 64.8mm (0.20 interference) with a lip in the inside to pick up the bearing above the oil dam.
On the primary gear end bearing, as the puller was flipped over and the lip wasn't in use and it allowed the bearing to slip in the puller. I threw one side of the puller in the mill and machined off about 1mm on the bolt up faces to provide a bit more crush....worked a treat!
Now just have to make a few more tools to get the rest or it apart!
Public holiday here so not much going on - didn't want to compete with the crowds at every slightly public place today so locked my self in the shed for the arvo - little Miss 4 was helping me so everything took that little bit longer but well worth it so that she may one day appreciate all the old bikes that Dad will leave to her!
Was going to get all pedantic and machine up a plate to hold the crank webs but didn't have any material and noting open due to the public holiday - thought I would give it a crack with a some offcuts of 6mm angle. It actually did it fairly easy - I don't have the pressure gauge fitted to the hydraulic press but it didn't take a silly amount of effort to press it apart. The bearing tool that I had made was again used for the center bearings - making that was time well spent!
Crank apart and all cleaned up - the only parts that I couldn't get from Suzuki Australia was the conrods - have the ones that Cruzinimage sent me in that package with the incorrect pins and bearings - will use them with Suzuki small and bigend bearings.
On the primary gear end seal there is some damage to the seal face - SKF makes a speedie sleeve that size, will have a think about that one - I can still throw the rest of the crank together in the meantime
Things moving along nicely now that I have some parts - crank back together and pressed.
Set the beg-end side clearance at 0.4mm. Can't find any information at what the factory clearance so if any one has the specifications I would be grateful if you could post them (closest that I could find was.......... T200 is 0.185--0.575mm and the T20 is 0.14--0.445mm)
I bought a $50 induction form Kmart - told the Mrs it was so we could have Korean BBQ's at home - she saw through my lies when she walked in the shed to see me heating bearings on it.
Using a cheap thermocouple, heated the bearings to 80 Deg C - they slipped straight on!
Bit of work with a large copper hammer has the crank runout less than 0.05mm.
Rolling on to the wheels
The new rims supplied from Suzuki have a sticker on them "Made in Thailand" but are still stamped RK EXCEL. I've laced plenty of aluminium dirt bike rims over the years but never a steel rim.
I'm not sure if it was just poorly made rims or the fact that they are steel but I had a bugger if a time tuning the wheels - it took an extra couple of stubbies but ended up getting them all below 0.2mm in each axis.
NICE AND SHINY!!!!!
Supercheap had a sale on the other day - picked up a smallish sandblasting cabinet for $190.
Filled it with 0.85mm Crushed Glass - works well on steel, bit more aggressive than I had wanted but will give a good etch for paint to stick.
Was thinking about trying walnut shell down the track for alloy and softer materials.
For the 74 GT250L that I am currently riding am having nothing but trouble with the front brakes squealing. Have cleaned everything, tried different pads, scuffed up the disc - even tried another 2nd hand disc that I had.
In desperation I decided to get the disc ground.
Tried a few different brake places and none of there machines would take the Suzuki disc. Found one friendly workshop that let me measure up their machine so that I could turn up an arbor.
Even tested the new sand blaster on the hub. Like new!
He had a bit of trouble with the disc chattering but the finish should be OK - and at least I now know its flat and true! When I fix the other issues on the bike I will report on the success.
Circumstances are forcing me into a change of direction for this project.
My GT250L 1974 bike that I’ve been riding around looks like it’s done a crank seal.
Some time ago, was walking through the shed and noticed the smell of petrol, was in a rush so quickly forgot about it. A few days later I was cleaning up to go back to work (go to sea for 4 weeks at a time) and found petrol dripping from the exhaust.
DAM – I forgot to turn off the petcock!
Early GT250’s don’t have an overflow on the carburetors – fills the pots when the needle and seat leak. Short of time I pulled the plugs, slowly turned it over on the kick starter, blew it out with compressed air and squirted some oil down the bore. Got home the other week and fired it up.
Bit of smoke out the left pipe…………….”it will clear when it gets hot” I said to myself.
Rode to the local shops – still plenty of smoke from the left pipe – white smoke!
Had another grand thought – “take it out on the highway and get it properly hot – that will clear the exhaust!”
Well……….……there isn’t an exit for about 5km’s. I attempted to disappear inside my helmet from embarrassment due to the now epic smoke trail that followed me……..and then I had to do it again for another 5km’s to get home.
I suspect that the residual petrol that was sitting in the crank for the month damaged the crank seal. The center crank bearing is lubricated from the gearbox, oil level in the gearbox dropped on the small but hazy test run.
So with the rego due and the fact that I was never really happy with the restoration that was done by the previous owner, it is now parked.
So the Suzuki GT250B 1976 that I’ve been playing is now going to be a nut and bolt restoration to appease the rivet counters and the GT250L 1974 will be the Café Racer.
Another contributing factor in this decision is that as ADR’s (Australian Design Rules) didn’t come into affect on motorcycles until 1975, so there might afford a few more liberties 74 that I couldn’t on the 76.
So the café project will take a little longer than originally intended – will do the resto first.
So with the demise of the road going bike and this now turning into a two bike resto/Cake project, I didn't want have my bike lift permanently filled up with 70's 2 Strokes, so an alternate work bench is needed - getting to old to be working off the floor.
Left over from some house reno's (new stairs and landing) I had a length of 75x75x4mm RHS. For a bike work bench it is absolute overkill but I can't see myself having another use for it in the foreseeable future - best use it rather than constantly tripping over it.
Bunnings (local hardware warehouse for those not in Australia) had sheets of 2150x600x30mm Soft wood pine ply for $65, add some Heavy duty 100mm Casters and 20mm leveling feet from eBay, I will be all finished for under $200.
Since the new bench is of such heavy construction I may in the future turn it into a welding/fabrication bench - will just need to find a suitable top.
My current welding bench that I made several years ago (DIY Stronghand tools copy), although extremely useful is limited to smaller jobs as it's only 1050x600mm.
New work bench finished - completely over-engineered but happy with the result!
Even Little Miss approves!
yes that is a good word for it engineering table or by some tooling table. Doubt much warpage will occur no matter the load.
Needs to be that strong - my mate has a GS!
Fork legs back form Rad Hard Chroming, won't say that it was cheap at $420 AUD (straighten and rechrome) but perfect job.
In comparison the new pattern fork legs that I bought for by GT250 74L were about the same after shipping - in chatting with the bloke at Rad, his reply was that his chrome will be thicker and last longer - as I can't see either bike doing 1000's and 1000's of kms and definitely not parked in the weather so I don't think it really matters.
So that took me back to my favourite job - polishing - MORE MESS!!!!!!
I thought that I would try Walnut Shells in my blast cabinet - didn't work so well continually blocking the syphon tube - tried different air pressures and nozzle sizes but nothing seemed to work. Looking on line at different sites and was thinking of fitting a metering valve in place of the syphon tube gun.......so for the interim I used glass beads. As a prep to polishing it took a lot of the hard work out - removed the factory lacquer and cleaned all the impossible corners.
Working on a better dust extraction system for my blast cabinet - now have two cyclones in series fitted up with a cheap ALDI vacuum (on sale for $40 this week) . the primary stage catches 95% of the dust, the 2nd stage just has a slight dust layer - the inlet hose to the vacuum is completely clean!
I turned up some aluminium sleeves - everything just slips together and held in with clamps - no taping or gaskets needed!
Necked down the bearing area on the head-stock spindle so that I can use taper roller bearings rather than the antiquated ball bearings that Suzuki use.
So with the sandblaster back in operation - started on all the small odds and ends - blasted with crushed glass and etch primed.
Did about an hour blasting with the new extraction system - I might call it a success.
First stage catches just about all of it, with the 2nd stage just taking out some of the fines.
There was a slight dusting in the inside of the duct pipe into the vacuum but nothing detectable in the vacuum filter.
Joys of blasting - can see what you are getting into - if anyone has a spare Suzuki GT250 A, B or C air box about, please let me know before I spend countless hours repairing this one.
can you source a new-ish one that isn't so rusted? Otherwise, i'm not so sure the corroded side(s) will have any effect on performance or runability and it'd be hidden quite well under the seat and side cover. T'wer me, I'd just paint it to stop further corrosion and run it!
However, as a pure restoration, you are compelled to have nice parts.
Yes the corrosion is on the dirty side of the filter and hidden behind the side cover but I WILL KNOW!
My OCD tendencies will draw my eyes to it every time I walk past.