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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Russ S, Nov 27, 2007.
It is getting to the point of being a work of art.
I'm thinking a similar project for next year, but using the DL650 and stripping it down. Great work!
+1 to Russ...simply outstanding fabbing there!!
Some ideas perhaps...
Very nice work, if Suzuki make a bike like this , I would buy it.
Thanks for the gracious comments..........If I need a group hug, I know where to get it .
Seriously, I am very glad to be finally enjoying riding the bike again instead of breathing paint fumes, picking glue off my hands, or sitting and staring at the bike 'till my butt gets numb trying to figure out how I should tackle the next design feature or problem.
Man that really is a GREAT loking bike....Nice work!
Have you had it on a scale to see what it weighs?
Just read through the thread and I must say you are a very good craftsman. I would never attempt that detailed of a project but I was impressed with your work. Great job.
DR Big style love it and thanks it makes me so happy to see all this come together amazing what can I say you rule.
Awesome work dude !
So , maybe you know if a SV motor will slip into a DL frame with no mods ?
I just found this thread and I am blown away, your craftsmanship is astounding!
Any thought into manufacturing those subframes and tanks? I think that fabrication looked to be the most difficult, and I doubt I could tackle that.
Oh and any more dirt/adventure updates?
Just a quick note on your Kevlar "epoxy" tank failure. Most serious composite tank builders use Vinylester resin for laminating, and vacuum bag using a brether bleeder system. THis is the system preferred by most offshore p-boat racers, home, and now some commercially built air craft builders
I have to say that your attempt was spectacular for having limited composite skills.
I prefer vinylester and SCRIMP construction myself.
The reason for the vinylester resin is that it has the highest chemical resistance properties of all resins and the lowest propensity for trapping micro-air in the laminate due to it's very low viscocity.
Next time, shape your plug from EPS foam and then coat it in Elmer's glue. This will seal it to allow an -ester based resin for lamination. You can then laminate it with v-ester resin and when completed, simply poor acetone into the tank and watch the EPS melt away and leave a beautiful void for fuel. This is known as the "vanishing" or "ghost" plug method of one-off composite hollow structure building. Before use, throw in a cup or two of sandblasting silica and shake for about 15 minutes. This will totally clean up the inside of the tank and prepare it for use. Be sure to wash out the tank with some water a few times to remove the balance of the silica.
The best thing about this method is that it allows you to build most any shape structure very quickly with no mold investment should you decide you don't like what you have or it doesn't function that way you want it to.
Invest in the tooling only once you have a something worth making a mold from.
Many thanks for THAT post !! EPS= Polystyrene, I guess.
Thought you guys might like this:
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Shot using nothing but the iPhone 4, impressive.
Very impressive with the iPhone 4
Yeah, well, let's steer this topic back to modded SV650's.
Russ: how much steering angle do you have with your setup?
My SV650 build has around 20 degrees to each side. No problem while riding any faster than about 10km/h, not handy st speeds below that.
I like the way it looked on the 1st page. I wonder how hard it would be to put DRZ forks on...
Not too hard..
(quite an old picture..)
Only problem is that the triples will interfere with the radiator badly. i solved that by replacing the radiator with three pieces of car heater core cut to size and welded watertight again:
Took quite a bit of effort. Distribution of coolant to all radiators was a job too, cramming 8 hoses in the space where there were two..
But anyway, it fits. Not too much wheel<->cyl. head clearance though:
Since this is fully into the hydraulic stop and normal travel is limited some 10-20mm earlier, I think it is acceptable
I'm also running an LC4 front wheel with 320mm disc:
Quite happy with the forks and brake setup. Way better than the DR-Z forks that were in there.
If I were to do it I'd just run the stock size tires. Do the DRZ forks bolt right in to the stock triple tree? What did you do with the rear shock?
Stock fork diameter is 41mm. DR-Z fork diameter is 49mm. So no, it won't fit in the stock triples. Which you don't want anyway, since they are quite flimsy.
I used the DR-Z triples. Had to modify the bottom triple slightly to clear the larger diameter steering head tube:
Note that except for an old TIG welder I don't have any special tools. This milling wass done using a $40 chinese drill press and that's also why the milling isn't entirely straight.
The steering stem is a combination of the SV stem and a little piece of the DR-Z stem:
I don't want to run the original 17" wheels. with 18"/21" (I just happened to have a second set of wheels for the LC4) the steering is still pretty quick, and they behave a lot better on bad roads and no roads.
I'm also running LC4Adv springs in the DRZ forks by the way. They are a bit shorter than the DRZ spring so they fit the 27mm shortened DR-Z forks perfectly.