Picked up my 12GS a couple of days ago.. a 2012 ex-demo bike. One of my first jobs is Fusebox. I have the box (having researched the various options on here and other sites). Now.. the one thing I can't seem to get straight is the switched power source. I have probably read every post on this website from the last 2 years regarding this topic.. and searched the FAQ, and the 1200gs.info site, and others. I'm not sure that I've got an answer that I'm totally happy with....but I think I'm close. Here's how I see the options... Headlight - a number of people say use the low beam, but then I've also read that GSs have issues burning out headlight globes already, plus the computer (be good if it had a name... HAL? LOL) reports LAMPF! for some people after a while with this method. Plus its at the wrong end of the bike... which I could get over but doesn't seem like the best solution. Tail light - seems about the same number of people prefer to use the tail light. Closer to the under-seat positioning of the fusebox, so that's good.. but isn't the taillight globe monitored by the computer also?? A read a couple of posts with people having LAMPF! errors with this method too.. d'oh! Diagnostic - One of the most popular sources seems to be the blue/green wire feeding the diagnostic socket just under the rear of the riders seat. What a great idea this seemed to be... close, non-essential. But the I read a few dire warnings about this becoming a potential warranty problem, maybe even causing a problem with the diagnostics?? I'll do my own oil and valves, but if I need the BMW guys to plug in and diagnose a more complex problem then I'd like all that expensive electronics (that we pay for in the price of the bike!) to work and for the workshop guys to not give me grief about the mods.... still... it does sound pretty good. Under-seat OEM accessory socket - Hang on a minute... just under the tool tray where I'm going to mount my fusebox there's a power socket already... where's the harm in tapping that power for my relay switch?? The workshop folks can't complain because really all I'm going with the accessory socket is powering an accessory (kind of...). No bulbs are going to give me error messages and my diagnostic port with be untouched. Plus its RIGHT THERE in the perfect location Only one doubt remains.... many people have warned AGAINST using this for switched power. "They" say that while the CANBUS is supposed to shut it down in 45 seconds (or something like that) the CANBUS can remain active or even "wake up" if there's a load. Really? That really scared me off at first... but now I'm thinking.. does the power really come back on or stay on with a load applied? Isn't that the whole idea of that socket being switched now on the 12GS? (as opposed to being always hot on the 11XX) OK, so I've read that the BMW factory battery charger sends a signal to "wake up" the CANBUS to enable the port for charging, but isn't that a different thing to a simple latent load being applied by my snoozing iPod or GPS? (non-BMW). I can't believe the 'switched' accessory socked would come back on becuase it has load. That would effectively make it always hot. So now, despite the warnings of some, which have given me flat-battery-while-camping nightmares in my sleep this past week, I'm thinking that the accessory socket is the obvious and best choice for the trigger wire. But I'm still a little nervous about those flat-battery warnings! I've only read posts by a couple of people that have used the accessory socket for the trigger wire. Could those people give me an update on how that's worked out? .. and perhaps there's a CANBUS guru that can confirm or over-rule my common sense view that of-course once the accessory socket goes to sleep it stays asleep (BMW battery tender secret handshake excluded...) Thanks..