TE610 Clutch Cable

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Xfool, Nov 25, 2006.

  1. Ted West

    Ted West n00b-ish

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    485
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    Tell you what, I'll chuck a map and a wad of cash for the fill ups in the mail and I'll have fresh tires staggered for you along the route. Anything else you need? Lodging? Beer? Lusty women?

    Solid, I'll have to let Packmule and his NH clan know we have another visitor coming :D .
    #21
  2. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Thousand Oaks, CA
    This trip is going to be fun:lol3
    #22
  3. losiu

    losiu wheelie addict

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    POLAND
    Lusty women?? that's new...
    Another ride in NH?
    Tickets bought...

    Oh yeah :thumbup

    Losiu

    PS. Beer iced?
    PPS. Why do I feel I don't really belong in this thread...
    PPPS. Anyway... I'm off to Boston :beer see you there Xfool :D
    #23
  4. offroute

    offroute Been here awhile

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    I think many can resist the urge to rush out and buy a new cable. I recently went on a big trip with my 610 and so spent some time trying to figure out why cables are failing prematurely. What I found is this:

    The cable housing end cap that fits into the clutch perch adjuster is way too small in diameter. What happens is that when you begin to pull the clutch cable looseness of this fit allows the end cap to cock causing the cable itself to abrade on the small hole where the cable comes through the cap. Simply hold the cable straight when you pull and you will feel how much smoother it is... Leave it as, it cocks when pulled, and you can feel the abrasion. To remedy, I pull my GPS mount is a position that holds the cable straight even when pulling the lever. For those getting the Barnett cable, I'd advise getting that end cap in a size that's tighter within the adjuster.

    My .02 FWIW...
    #24
  5. Ted West

    Ted West n00b-ish

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    I'm surprised to hear you say that, I thought we discussed the fact that lusty women are an important part of every balanced dualsport adventure. I could have sworn you were going to take this message of good faith back with you to Poland. You know, a gift from our people to your people.
    #25
  6. ronsolo

    ronsolo Hooplehead

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    I think my clutch cable is toast (1400 miles) because it's making grinding noises. :huh

    If someone could be so kind, what is the proper procedure for removing the cable so I can inspect it further? I'll assume replacing it isn't that difficult either.

    This is pretty embarrassing to have to ask but I guess it's one more thing I'll learn as I become an adventure rider. Of course my concentration level and motivation to explore on my own would be so much higher if it wasn't like 130F in my garage. :puke1
    #26
  7. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

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    Line up the slots on the cable guide at the lever so both adjusting knobs expose the cable. Remove the nut and screw that holds the lever in place and it will give you enough slack in the cable so you can slip it out of the guides and lever. Most cable failures are at this point where the ferrel inserts into the lever. There have been a few that frayed at the lower mount as well.
    Once you have it out if you find it is salvagable make sure to grease where the ferrel goes in the lever even though it has a plastic bushing it needs grease as well. Another important thing to watch for is routing. Cable should be routed under the Bars instead of over as this reduces the radius. Try to have the cable line up parallel with the lever as well as it should not bend too close to the lever...

    Dan
    #27
  8. ronsolo

    ronsolo Hooplehead

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    Jan 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
    826
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    Pacific Northwest
    OEM clutch cables are back ordered in the U.S. I have not checked places like Uptight. Jeebus, it's a cable. C'mon Husky lets get with the program here.

    Also, Barnett's no longer sells to the public. I called Joe who was very helpful and nice but told be I need to go through a dealer.

    The part number is
    #101-37-10610

    I can't ride til I get this sorted out. So folks, maybe order extra cables when it's time. :)
    #28
  9. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

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  10. ra2bach

    ra2bach drive-by poster

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    Dirt, is this part number the stock cable length or is it slightly extended for higher bars?
    #30
  11. ronsolo

    ronsolo Hooplehead

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    I can't remember exactly but he said they were longer and I think he said 2 inches.
    #31
  12. ra2bach

    ra2bach drive-by poster

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    OK, that's what I was hoping... :thumb
    #32
  13. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

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    I talked to Joe today and he said 1-1/2" longer than stock.
    #33
  14. ronsolo

    ronsolo Hooplehead

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    Jan 28, 2007
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    Do these new cool style Barnett cables need any fancy lubing before installation? I don't have cable luber thingy or anything?
    #34
  15. husky123

    husky123 Long timer

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    Nope, just throw 'em on they're good to go. Cable lubers are a good tool for the box though when it's time to give the cable some much needed love.
    #35
  16. ronsolo

    ronsolo Hooplehead

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    826
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    Pacific Northwest
    Thanks,

    Hopefully you guys don't mind helping a newbie out. This is my first offroad bike. I have no idea what I'm doing just flying blind. :1drink

    So I took off the old cable. The top by the lever was easy but the only way I could get it off was to remove the entire clutch bracket from the engine. It was too tight to get a wrench on the nuts without removing it. Was that correct?

    Now I am ready to put things back in place. Is the basic idea here to put everything in state where there is enough adjustability with the little barrel adjusters? Am I missing a obvious technique?

    I'm going to have to guess at some initial tension because I have to place the cable back onto the bracket then bolt the bracket back on. It seems like it would be easy to have too much or not enough slack/tension.
    #36
  17. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

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    What have you guys been paying for these things? The box that was shipped to the dealer I ordered it from said COD $40.00, he marked it up another $16.00.
    $56.00 for a clutch cable? :eek1 I was thinking 12-15 bucks. That sucker better last a looooooooooong time.
    #37
  18. ronsolo

    ronsolo Hooplehead

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    Mine was $42.

    I think the OEM ones are even more...like $58
    #38
  19. Countdown

    Countdown Long timer

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    Almost all cables are now coated but the ends can be metal to metal and need lube. If not the cable will frey and break at the ball/barrel end piece.
    #39
  20. Xfool

    Xfool Been here awhile

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    Compared to the Barnett the stock cable is worth $7.00 to $10.00.
    #40