Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Motociclo, May 30, 2020.
Keep a look out on our T7 Vendors thread
Takes a while for brand-new suspension to loosen up and get broken in...
Yes, here is my video of the OEM spring change:
I installed on my Bike a 90N linear spring. Riding alone with riding gear I have a sag of ~65mm, equals 30%, preload 4 clicks, spot on so far.
With panniers and camping gear, which is pretty much my maximum potential load, I have to wind to 12 clicks preload to gain the 65mm. Allright.
So I got 12 clicks left potentially unused.
So when I step slightly back to a 85N spring, can I expect a plusher ride with adjusted sag settings?
Not necessarily as you will have to add more Preload to the softer 85N/mm spring, so this means it can give a stiffer initial movement, better to have minimum Preload on the stiffer spring
Thanks for feedback, nice to book that as a good result.
With compression 17 clicks out and rebound 14 clicks out I am at the soft range at the moment.
On Gravel Roads and soft Off-Road I am happy with the settings.
But on bad tarmac roads with short waved bumps I still find the rear too hard and stiff. Not bad, but theres certain room for improvement
I think i read from Motociclo in the T7 suspension thread that T7 rear shock valving is designed for high speed compression, so adjusments barely affects low speed compression. So a little hard feeling in paved road waves makes sense.
I have fitted the 90nm spring on Friday . Had it at 4 turns from soft on the preload but now on 8 clicks . Front forks 8 clicks out from soft rebound and 12 on compression 90kg plus gear and a backpack .
Thanks, that would explain a lot.
Accoding the Forks: In the MAD youtube suspension Video they advice in Kombination with the 90N spring rear 5mm preload spacers for the Front. Anybody done this here? What are the best Diameters?
Hi guys, I would like to know what is your opinion on my feeling about the suspension, I'm a bit confused. Rear sag is correct for my 80kg riding weight.
I have ridden with clickers both soft in compression and rebound, and hard. When they are set out to soft, the bike dives a lot, bounces and feels harsh on small rocks, street speed bumps which is strange as being soft it shouldn't feel harsh over small things. When riding fast on sharp edged rocks it deflects a lot like trying to kill you.
I turn in the clickers to 4 from full hard/in. The suspension feels way plusher over small things and stuff (weird as I think this is how soft compression and rebound should feel in my mind), it doesn't bottom out on small jumps and overall feels much better. The problem is still that riding fast over a rock in the middle of the trail or a suden edged step makes the bike deflect like crazy, almost to the point of crashing the same than when set full soft.
Can someone put some logic in this? In brief: setting soft clickers feel harsher on small obstacles at low speed, bounces like jelly, and bottoms out easily. Hard clickers feel much plusher over small obstacles and doesn't bottom out. In both cases deflects dangerously when riding at speed over sharp edged rocks or ruts when I can't avoid them.
Is it because clickers only have effect on slow speed dampening? Would a valving change solve this issue or I'm trying to ride too fast with a heavy adventure bike like it was my Enduro?
More often than not the harshness is due to not enough preload on the T7 forks, which we have found, if you add 5-10mm more preload the fork rides higher in the stroke.
I've added an 80nm RR rear spring and would like to try the WP 5mm spacers up front. Only experience i have with forks is dropping in plex valves on my old dr650. Can someone point me to a demo of how to install the 5mm fork spacers?
I'm at work and can't see link, but here ya go.
Sweet! Looks like it may be possible without removing forks
Probably messier not removing them, as noted in link.
very easy without removing forks, less than 30 min job once you'v done it once if you havent done it before, its really easy to test a bit of preload and see how your sag is and redo with a bit more or less to get it right, Ive played with 5-7mm with mine.
I just put a bit of tie wire or tie a bit of string to stop the rods falling into forks. Im no expert but done a few bikes like this and never had a problem
loosen top tripples.
Wind your compression and rebound damping out.
Jack front wheel off ground.
Undo fork caps ( I use some tape or tissue wrapped around hex to prevent surface damage).
Let your jack doen a bit and it pushes the fork caps up to give you room to work, do it slowly so if there is any small amount of oil on springs runs back down into forks.
Put some tie wire or stinge arond thead/rod under the lower lock nut, that if if you drop them in you can get them out.
Hold lower lock nut with spanner, undo cap off rod.
Place your spacer under fork spring top cover.
Put everything back in reverse order.
Jack front back up it helps you get the forks caps threaded back in.
Sweet, what the suitable inside and outer diameter of the spacers?
a standard WP43 spacer is around 38mm x 27mm x Xmm thick
I cant tell you what max or min you can get away with is but whatever you can get close to that
Im 96kg out of the shower
I have 6kg forks springs 59mm sag with 3/4 tank
and 8.5 shock spring with 8 clicks of preload for 62mm sag, i could prob get away with 9 shock spring but I ride light 90% of the time so am happy.
allright, I removed my poor gues to lead nobody wrong. In UK I would have ordered the nice Rally Raid set, but shipping costs to Germany you know.
Gonna get made something in work.
if you look at that pic of mine you will see an off the shelf 3mm thick washer sitting above the 5mm plastic shim, they come with HiCalibre forks springs sets, I am back to the 5mm spacer only now, that was a test I did