Tenere 700 suspension info

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by Motociclo, May 30, 2020.

  1. Benduro

    Benduro Motorodeo Supporter

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    I'm exactly your weight.

    Where did you source the 6kg fork springs?
    Rally Raid?
  2. BygDaddee

    BygDaddee Where do I get a pie

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    https://www.teknikmotorsport.com/

    K-Tech also do them in 5mm longer which is good
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  3. Tooph

    Tooph Adventurer

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    Spacers should be here tomorrow. Correct me if I'm wrong... If I add the 5mm to the stock springs like has been demonstrated. That would increase the initial load on the spring putting me further into the progression (stiffer intial). It wouldn't lift the front end higher to have more usable range and propper sag... Right? Wouldn't I have to put the spacers on the bottom side under the spring retainer ring?
  4. BygDaddee

    BygDaddee Where do I get a pie

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    it will lift and hold the front end a bit higher (less static and rider sag), by how much your rider sag will lesson depends on how much you weigh.

    measure it before and after, do both 2 or 3 times though, as the stiction in the forks can play a few tricks
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  5. windblown101

    windblown101 Long timer Supporter

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    The placement of the preload spacer (top or bottom) has no bearing on the change the spacer causes in the forks action. 480mm spring + 10mm spacer compressed to a total length of 470mm results in a spring with 20mm of compression regardless of which end the spacer is on. (Numbers used are just for example,).

    It's not uncommon for folks to mix up the compression from bike weight with the compression from preload and think a spacer on top has a different impact than a spacer on the bottom but bike weight/gravity and preload are completely different.
    Benduro likes this.
  6. worncog

    worncog YBNormal Supporter

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    If you are trying to understand how your boingers work, this is worth purchasing to read while your wife is talking to you:

    51kNSOehJmL__SX386_BO1,204,203,200_.jpg

    I am far from an expert in this field, but I find myself going back to read concepts and function as I continue my 'education' on suspension performance and tuning. Thought I was gaining ground until I started digging into the WP 4CS and tuning the mid-valve.
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  7. Bike Guy

    Bike Guy Long timer

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    Being an ex owner of the 4CS forks, “ I concur Doctor”
    With money spent I never was a happy rider
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  8. Bike Guy

    Bike Guy Long timer

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    I just did a change out on both the front and rear suspension on my US spec bike. The stock front springs measured at 425MM which is the same dimension as the KTech fork springs.
    BygDaddee likes this.
  9. Benduro

    Benduro Motorodeo Supporter

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    That book is in my shop.


    The WP 4cs is an anomaly, and your best bet is sending it to Kreft as there's only so much you can do with an 8mm damping rod.
    The Dal Soggio drop in stuff along with the mx tech "lucky" system have good reviews too.

    Fuck, the 4cs suuuuuuuuucks.

    Ask me how I know.

    20200528_141038.jpg
    worncog likes this.
  10. socially stunted

    socially stunted Mind astray

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    @Motociclo what spacer did you use with the Eiback spring in your original post?
    Thanks.
  11. team ftb

    team ftb Befuddled Adventurer

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    Any Feedback on the Ktech valving changes and set-up? What would you like to Change in the feelings of their set-up? What conditions do you ride and at what ability? The reason I ask as I am looking at valving changes to be done to the T7. After a test ride and at 65kg it was faar too mushy for me both on pavement and off road.

    Thank you in advance.
  12. Denis7

    Denis7 Adventurer

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    Don't like it. No plushness. Maybe the 8 kg ktech spring with "0" additional preload is still too heavy for me (80kg BW). Revalved front by original poster acts miles better on single hi speed occurence (sharp edge) than rear k tech sprung and revalved unit. On consecutive bumps or sharp edges, both not so good. On landings, both perform ok, that is slow speed, high travel action. My riding is not racing type, but I like road, fire road, dirt road, gravel, exploring, even woods enduro at slow, moderate even high speeds..the amount suspension allows.
  13. svrider65066

    svrider65066 discresion is for pussies

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    Race tech recommends 110 mm air gap if that helps
  14. svrider65066

    svrider65066 discresion is for pussies

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    That's not really accurate, he said the compression adjuster was like a high speed adjuster, and had most of its affect near or at the high end of adjustment. If anything the rear is more slow speed oriented, which it does pretty well if you are a light rider, I feel it suffers badly from high speed, and that's what you are fixing with the new shimstack.
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  15. team ftb

    team ftb Befuddled Adventurer

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    Absolutely wonderful feedback, thank you :clap.

    I shall contact the original poster then. I usually get my valving done front and rear by tuners in America as living here in South East Asia the experience levels are lacking. So improvements you would like made would be on sharp edged hits, correct, any other areas? Was it harsh and not absorbing or deflecting, in the sharp edged stuff? It would be great feedback for him to improve his stack. Sounds like too much high speed compression, as sharp edge hits generate high shaft speeds. Let us know what other improvements you would like to see in the performance of your suspension.

    As another posted what air gap are you running up front? Did the OP give you a specification for that?

    Are you riding without luggage?

    Does anyone else have links to aftermarket tuners having worked on customers T7's?



    Thanks again.
  16. Denis7

    Denis7 Adventurer

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    Single but small sharp edge bump is handled well by front. Small in the realm of 3-4cm, at speed 60-70km/h. Bigger edge, in the form of road speed bump, 7 cm high, which should be felt but muffled by suspension, is abupt, no matter the speed over it.
    I have added 5mm preload on front spring, use 90mm oil, while orig. poster suggests 100 and some other sites even more. Also, he suggests removing one face shim 17 x 0,15 for softer ride.
    So quite a few variables to play with in the future.
  17. powder85

    powder85 Been here awhile

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    My feeling is that the suspension is not plush in small stuff on street and it also deflects dangerously in hard hits on edged rocks so not good anywhere. I tried all sorts of damping settings and find closing compression and rebound makes the suspension a bit plusher.

    Since I don't have a reputable suspension tuner (they all do trial and error work with no dyno) I decided to swap the whole cartridges and rear shock, I'll post my impressions when I get them and ride them properly.

    Bear in mind my typical riding terrain is desert type dry and rocky, not mud, sand whoops and this sort of soft terrain.
    Johnnyboxer and fredz43 like this.
  18. Billa661

    Billa661 Adventurer

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    I just got my k-tech spring and plan on installing them, however I was looking in the shop manual for the type of fork oil used, just in case I need to top it off. It is new, so I really don't want to drain the oil and put new oil in. Has anyone heard of Yamaha Suspension Oil G10 per the shop manual? My Yamaha dealer has never heard of it and a google search doesn't turn up anything.

    Attached Files:

  19. Denis7

    Denis7 Adventurer

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    G10 is 10W.
  20. Denis7

    Denis7 Adventurer

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    @Motociclo went through a lot hassle in his first post and I believe he did a great job if you can DIY.
    Clickers do a lot now.
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