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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by underwaterguru, Mar 10, 2009.
everything is possible i guess
I'll draw a map up tonight when I'm home from work. What is her preferred choice of mapping utility (Garmin, Google Maps, Kurviger etc?)
Thanks mate, it doesn't matter what she uses i do 'daily' break downs for her, at least have been this far. So whatever works for you is fine, i prefer google maps.
It is an easy run out of the Snowy via Khancoban south to Geelong & then onto Great Ocean Rd to follow the coast round to Adelaide which takes in the Coorong. she would miss Ballarat/Bendigo old mining history but too much to see to do everything in one trip, I have done the GOR & Coorong a few times, always enjoy it
Any trick to tighten up the tail lamp assymbly bolts buried in the rear?
Mine wiggles, the rubber isolators probably shrunk some with time. I can kinda see and tough the bolts through those 2 lower side openings but not much room?
No it is not rubber isolators shrinking over time, it is poor design which leads to broken plastics, solution is here to change the mounting method
I tightened mine up last spring while my rear shock was out for a rebuild. Lots of dis-assembly to get to the bolts. I wasn't aware there was a solution so I put it back as I found it.
In addition to @WayneC suggestion you should also consider the led tail light that is sold on eBay. It's significantly lighter than the stock unit. I've had one on mine for about two years now. Other than being a bit tricky to install I've had no problems with it.
Hmm, first, get in touch with @BergDonk. Not much he hasn't ridden around the alpine region.
I can send you the BMW safari TS (road bike) maps and route notes later tonight. They design the routes to be something worth riding with places worth riding to.
But I'm with others, Great Ocean Road to Warrnambool, even Port Fairy, but it is 'the other way' from the alpine region.
Rip up to Halls Gap?
Hope she realises how hot, dry, remote and LONG the trip from Adelaide to Darwin is going to be at this time of year.
I assume staying off the Freeway from Darwin to Sydney via Brisbane (Cairns, Atherton Tablelands, New England areas?)
Startup a multi-member conversation and we can all chip in there and keep it off thread?
So the tail light assembly flops around when riding off road and eventually breaks/cracks?
Yes: its a feature, not a bug!
Great suggestion on the thread, didn't think of that one
Get in touch with GSdane from Denmark via a PM. She's done more of OZ than most Ozzies. I'm happy to help if your friend sends me a PM. Can help out with accommodation, route planning, bike maintenance/repairs. I'm in Melbourne.
@tkach I've moved my posts into your designated thread so as to not spam the locals:
So does the Dakar have some sort of u shaped headlight shell reinforcement bracket that the non-Dakar does not have?
Putting a MRA shield on mine
If so part #? Thnx
So does the Deka EXT15L a drop in, but tight, fit for the 2 spark?
Seems that is best drop in fit agm battery?
I love Deka agm.
I have that recommend Scorpion yt12cl in there now but I'm planning.
I also see Motobatt listed as solid too?
Yes, the Deka drops in (well a little push is required.)
I wanted the largest capacity battery I could find because I often charge battery packs/phone/Bluetooth electronics over night while camping. Never have to worry about bike starting. The same cannot be said for a LiFe or LiIo battery. They are lighter for sure, but they do not carry the same AH ratings for long steady discharge applications. I tried a Shorai LFX14L5-BS12 battery and it started the bike fine, but charging one small Bluetooth receiver killed the battery over night. Shoria rates it as a 14 AH "Equivalent" battery. If you actually look on the bottom of the battery there is a sticker that specs 3 AH. Their advertising is a bit misleading as this information is not posted on their website. Having said that you will save about 8 lbs of battery weight that is mounted on the top of your bike. There is a noticeable change in the ability to flick the bike back and forth at slower speeds.
Ok Wayne major break thru in what's going on.
Remember the nuetral light was working as expected and not acting like note 6 with didiode B issues?
Well I inquired & pressed more about this to the previous owners...
At around 1500 miles the nuetral light stopped working for him. Not fully understanding how the ground all worked he clipped the brown/black wire from the nuetral switch where it enters the harness (right next to the sensor wire going to the top of the starter) and ran a wire directly up to the nuetral light.
I have not dug in up there, but I suspect he then cut and tapped the wire into the nuetral light behind the guage cluster. I now see how that wire runs and is different from the main harness.
He also said he wondered why the bike will not start on its sidestand now?, but just kept using the bike as is. All this was not explained to me when I bought it, but he is a Chain Gang member and thus might have discussed it there?
Now that all makes sense!!!
He eliminated the ground wire running to diode b & c completely and it only runs to nuetral light.
Thus the bike in nuetral does not provide ground to motronic relay nor starter relay.
And thus I need to pull in the clutch to send ground to the starter relay (my side stand switch disabled fixes that grounding issue).
And now that bring up the big ?
Do I try and determine where that wire break is in the nuetral light circuit?
Is it worth it to damage my harness or is there a better place to tap and just run new wire?
I see how that nuetral ground splits and my first thought is cut this new wire run & attach it back to where he cut the harness for the original wire run.
If the wire fault is past that split branch only heading to the nuetral light, then the bike (in nuetral) will indeed start with no clutch. there is ground going to the starter relay via diode b. That would verify diode b working too.
A faulty diode b would not affect his nuetral light problem, however just ground to the starter relay via the nuetral switch (which by the way I did replace too to be safe.)
So I won't see a nuetral light, but I will have ground to the starter relay w/o needing to get ground thru the clutch switch. The bike will start just in nuetral.
Now if it does not start, then that says the wire break is indeed before that wire junction and thus not providing ground to the starter relay via diode b.
Where exactly is that junction in the harness so I can test continuity? How are these ground wires tied together? Maybe the problem is right there?
Any additional ideas?
I guess I can always run a wire fronm the nuetral switch up to the input end before diode b and then on to the nuetral light if I can't find the ground wire problem? A wiring run to diode c is not needed any more for this bike.
Thanks, your diagram is invaluable!
Thanks ,I'm still very happy with AGM batteries. Yuasa is my go to but I guess there is not a bigger one that fits so this Deka is the best choice. I used Dekas on my DR with great success. I just changed them out every 3 years before they got weak and I never had issues. Some mention Mottobat too as working well.
Does lising weight there really mater?
Bike is heavy either way.
So the bike developed a fault & the PO did a dodgy work around repair rather than find the fault which left the bike unable to be started unless the clutch is in
X9380 is in the big pig tail clump of wires on the RHS behind the engine near the upper engine mount, there are a number of crimp connections in that big pig tail, it is more likely harness chafing has broken a wire around that area or just below near the shock preload adjuster
You would need to check/confirm continuity of the original Brown/Black wire from dash to neutral switch & determine where the break is
People dont understand the AH rating of auto lead acid batteries is an arbitrary legal definition & encompasses a No of parameters the battery must meet to be marked with an AH rating. The AH rating used by many LifePO battery manufacturers is an "equivalent" rating which estimates equivalence for starting purposes not long duration low current capability. The international rating for transport Lithium batteries is Watt Hours which is a rating of the energy storage in the battery
Re the effect of weight reduction by replacing the battery with a LifePO battery, yes removing 3kgs of weight up high has a big effect in feel of the bike. Replacement of the battery & exhaust takes out 3kgs of weight on each & is the cheapest $/kg weight reduction you will find
I am in the 7th year of running the under spec'd Shorai & would not fit another lead acid battery, the next battery will be a bigger capacity AntiGravity