Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by underwaterguru, Mar 10, 2009.
Forgot your mod did you make a thread on it to capture what you did?
frames will be the same just said that is where ABS pipes are mounted on mine did not say there is a difference in frames
No, I didn’t make a separate thread, just posted some picture here. I have many photos to describe in details what I did. Shouldn’t I post all the stuff here?
For sure the rear of the bike sits more upright now, but it doesn’t seem to cause any trouble. Maybe it will if I put back the 19” wheel that I have as a tarmac configuration. That’s why I have to reconsider ASAP what am I going to do with the front.
I might've had that clip up there, but I think I had a similar clip further down. Regardless - I had all the wires and cables fastened to "the ABS bracket" with zip ties for years without any issues. I use several zip ties and the electric cables are taut while the cables are not so that they can still move. UV proof zip ties (black) last forever.
Chicken or egg?
And I'm just saying the pre ABS frame has the bracket.
So did they design it for future ABS or did they use what was already there when they designed the ABS?
Surely one of the big and important questions in life.
I think you should make a new thread with a short and precise title so that people can find it in the future from a simple search and link to it both here and in the suspension thread. Even if it's called the YZ conversion thread it's been a hybrid thread on general 650GS suspension mods for many years.
What he said and people can refer to it
I'd be inclined to believe BMW designed the bracket for the ABS gear before that became standard equipment (or even available at all?)
I have a non-ABS bike, produced 11/2001 and it has the mount point. I'd always wondered what it was for, like I was missing something, and now I know.
I've read that similarly back in the early '70s, the gas tanks on airheads started showing up at dealers with a larger cavity underneath where it straddles the frame spine, reducing capacity by something like 1L for the larger tank. Some time later, folks realized this was intended to accommodate the cable-operated master cylinder for the front hydraulic disc brake that became standard equipment. (which I've also removed and replaced with a bar-mounted MC because the cable stretch and being out of sight is a detriment IMO)
You might consider posting NSFW if you are going to show her without a skid plate like that...
Probably planned to have it from the start but took a year or two to sort out the bugs
Not sure what this means. A google search showed Not Suitable For Work. If yes, I haven’t installed the skid plate because I am planning to modify/replace the subframe with some aluminum bars, to save weight and increase ground clearance. I will try to keep the oem plate however.
That is what he meant. He was commenting/joking about how the bike looks so naked without the skid plate on. Naked things are typically not suitable for work (NSFW).
Cheaper to manufacture 1 part than it is to manufacture 2 different parts.
The amount of extra aluminium in the casting is nothing
Machining the 2 holes for the ABS takes seconds.
No need to worry how many of each type to make
Absolutely, that's why I believed BMW planned ahead for an ABS-equipped model or dealer upgrade when designing the frame, even if the system wasn't ready when the FI bike initially came out, just like the updated airhead gas tanks. The mount I'm referring to is on the left side of the head tube, it's a steel bracket that is welded in place.
I was replying to @Gravel Seeker who was postulating a chicken/egg scenario with that mount point, my take was that it is much more likely to be intentional than opportunistic.
Yeah, this is most likely the correct assumption. It must've been in development longer (first GS made 02/99 and first Dakar made 04/00), but it was rushed to market in 2000 to celebrate the 2000 Dakar win so I'm guessing the convo went something like
- "get it to market now"
- "but it's not ready - we just started designing the ABS system"
- "I don't care, we just won the fucking Dakar - you have 2 months"
- "ok, but it won't have ABS"
- "ABS schmeibyess!"
They started selling it spring or early summer 2000 AFAIR and the Dakar rally was held in January as per usual so considering I'm glad the engine was already a decade old at that point otherwise there probably would've been a lot more problems with the early ones and mine's a year older than yours.
Reading back what I just wrote they actually may have rushed the Dakar through development due to the Dakar rally win, while the regular GS might've been on track. Just guessing.
But, until otherwise proven mine came with a square plastic zip tie clip mounted to the bracket and all the electrical wires coming from the electrical box were zip'd to it hence why I've continued to do so even if the clip is gone now.
Or maybe it's just me that over 18 years have added wires and put them all on that side
Ran into an bump redoing my handlebars- I have a new ProTaper Evo Adventure bar I am trying to mount the left heated grip tube onto. I took a drill bit and tap that seemed to fit the hole in the steel stock bars, says it is a "no. 36" bit and "6-32" tap (equivalent to a 7/64 drill size), and tapped a hole in the ProTapers. I tried to screw in the screw from the grip tube and it just shreds the alloy as soon as it starts to grip anything. The screw is self tapping itself (was able to do this with just a pilot hole when mounting them in some stock non-heating steel bars last year), but the alloy of the ProTaper bars is working like butter with it. The screw isn't described on the fiche because BMW won't sell components of the heated grips individually. The screw won't go into a 9/64 template hole, so it is larger than 3.57mm. It goes into the 5/32 template slightly loose, so is smaller than 3.97. Is there a standard metric size between 3.57 and 3.97mm??? Anyone know the size of those screws?
The next larger tap is 8-32, which my kit's documents say is equivalent to 9/64 drill size. This would be my next step, but seems like a blind guess on my part. Komitas warns that drilling a hole too big here will cause aggro. I don't think I want that. Any advice to keep from turning these new bars into Swiss cheese?
All the clips broke or were cut off by me on my first Dakar, so I had to play around with mounting points a bit. What seems like the biggest problem besides straight up binding is the cables tend to poke the back of the stock headlight, especially with LED adapters that rely on extra crap protruding out the back there. A clip next to the ignition is in the optimal spot to hold the 'Bowden' cables away from that. Looks like it was original to the single sparks also from the fiche. Nice that BMW still offers an elegant solution to this for less than $4...
I'd guess M4? Slightly smaller than 8-32 and finer pitch so will catch more thread in the bar. Tap drill is a #30, if the hole is much bigger than that you may have to get more creative. Using a tap with a proper tap holder would be preferable to self-tapping at this stage, imho.
Also if the self-tapping screw has a flute and/or taper cut into it, that section should be past the wall of the handle bar for optimum thread engagement and longevity. Replace with a normal machine screw if that is not the case.
These are the players...
So screw size wouldn't correspond to holes on my drill gauge, or would a 4mm screw fit in a 3.97 hole? I thought BMW was all about precision...
If it is 4mm, it won't match the threads on the 8-32 tap close enough, I should go buy a metric tap set?
Sounds like it's an M3 to me (3mm main body and the threads sticks out a little bit). You'll probably be able to find 3,Xmm, but that's hardly a standard size anywhere. My HSS drill bit boxes often contain decimal drill bits smaller than 6mm though. For instance 3,2mm and/or 3,5mm.
If they aren't able to self tap (which they aren't), I can only suggest using a regular tap.
Thought you were trying to self tap it. I would think you'd have to use metric tap for metric screw as the threads are not the same on metric and US Imperial.