Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.
I'll check it out, thanks.
WOW! you've done a LOT of work on these, I was looking to properly adjust vs. tune though, I should have been more clear. I bought my bike in Japan (where I live) and can't read Japanese so even a decent manual would be helpful. The issue I have is that I have lots of dive in the front, when I push on the seat the back drops much faster than the front, so I know I need to stiffen the rear and adjust the rebound on the front, what I don't know is what or where the proper adjustment is and I would prefer not to make gross adjustments in order to figure it out. By the way, thank you for posting all of the information you have that is a very valuable resource!
I'm reading through your "Springs, preload and stuff" post and it seems like you are describing exactly the issue I am having. I'm about 100 kg with my gear when I ride so the recommendations you make will suit me well. I know this might sound dumb, but can you tell me what adjusters do what and where they are? I would like to set them up with your recommendations but I'm not sure what I'm looking at and can't find a good reference for the OEM suspension. The other problem I have is that I know I will have to sell the bike in less than 3 years to come back to the US which is why I haven't taken it to a shop to get stronger springs and better valves. I just don't want this bike "bucking" when I go over bumps and pot holes. With the amount of travel this thing has I feel like there HAS to be a way to get it better than it is now.
Thank you again for the write ups!
Wow, they look great, nice and clean looking. Nice work!
AWESOME! That was EXACTLY what I was looking for!
I might start a thread if anyone else is interested.
I'll talk to him Sunday to double check cost on the set.
Meantime, here I am with an exacto knife!
Can you make it more like this?
One question about forks:
When I first changed fork oil there was a hiss of air once the caps were loosened.
This tells me air pressure builds up which I presume is not a good thing.
Do you suspension gurus regularly depressurize the forks?
For what it's worth, the user manual has 'default' settings for all these.
When I checked them for the first time, they were mostly off.
I tested my ride with all settings put at default values to familiarize myself and set a benchmark of sorts.
Hoping I can tell a difference in handling once I play around with rebound and damping.
PM sent. Thanks!
I wouldn't be worried about the AT being under pressure. As long as your oil level is proper, you will never have issues. unless you crack the top cap...you will not get the air out. A regular fork service is better IMO. Say every 10 to 15k km tops.
I have air caps on my dirt bike, but those get a very regular workout, across the entire travel of the fork, and the entire ride.
I may bleed them once a ride, or after they come out of the back of the truck, as they were compressed the entire time.
@Motociclo will have a bette anwser for ya!
Pressure should not hurt. I know a little bit about hydraulics from other applications at work. The air will be under pressure as you ride. The fork is assembled all stretched out, then sealed up and put on the bike and immediately goes into compression as you set down in the tire for the first time. Air is a compressible “fluid” and is part of the cushioning design in single and multi chamber air over oil hydraulic systems including motorcycle stuff. The greater danger is lower pressures during extension which would cause cavitation pitting. I think some people have seen this in the guide bushing surface during rebuilds. Too much air at the top can cause this. Someone was going to put 180mm air gap. I bet he gets cavitation pitting on his innerds.
Took a few pictures of how I wired in the flasher relay. Unfortunately I only just noticed they came out blurry
I used a few of these contacts I had laying around from Eastern Beaver. They're the ones you'd use if you're trying to use one of the bike's OP connectors:
I crimped them onto the end of the leads from the flasher relay and then stuck them into the connector on the bike. Then I put a piece of heat shrink around the connectors and filled it with silicone to make a sort of ghetto connector. Repeat for the connector that has to be jumped (behind and on the right in this pic):
Important note: For ABS bikes (both manual and DCT) The service manual says to remove the ABS modulator to get to the flasher relay. It turns out that not only is that not necessary, the manual also points you to remove a component that...isn't there? See here:
The relay looks like this:
You can pretty easily wiggle the relay out without touching the ABS modulator. You might need to remove the ETC tray - I already had removed mine to do some other stuff and I as I'm sitting here at work without the bike in front of me I can't remember if it would have made a difference. Either way the ETC tray is pretty easy to remove:
Great......I'll take one! Where do I go?!
I noticed these highlights too. Manual and where stuff is do not match......its a pain. The only way I found it easy to get to that relay on my bike was to lift the tank. Its actually under the tank and not at all under that tray under the seat so that leads to a whole process of unnecessary work.
At this point everything is on hold until I receive the new male caps to plug into the harness. Everything else seems to be in place.
BTW, thank you for posting the pictures, I cross checked my work and we match so thats a great sign. Can't wait to get this all finished and run my bike down the street with the new Fog Lights (LED turn signals). Damn things are BRIGHT!
Ditto, if you'd make it I would but it.
just got my ADVrider swag. Pretty good deal for donating to the site! With the amount I've learned in here the donation has paid for itself a zillion times over, even if I didn't get a shirt and stickers.
I took the tank off like a week ago to start on a bunch of small wiring jobs and the tail is taken apart for the same reason so now I can't remember where anything is unless I'm actually standing next to the bike.
What to do if it's bent? Need to replace the front instrument panel/screen holder? Or can it be straightened?
Tried to straighten it by releasing front triple tree bottom bolts and bar risers from the bottom, but didn't help. Will try to also release front axle nut and fender next time and pump the forks. If it doesn't help then the nose is skewed
VERRY NICE MAX !