1. Livestream NOW at 11AM PST / 2PM EST!
    Baldy Interviews + Noraly "Itchy Boots" from Youtube YouTube Live Chat here
    Dismiss Notice

The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. Barron

    Barron M0DAH0LIC

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,403
    Location:
    Bethesda, Maryland
    I'm reading through your "Springs, preload and stuff" post and it seems like you are describing exactly the issue I am having. I'm about 100 kg with my gear when I ride so the recommendations you make will suit me well. I know this might sound dumb, but can you tell me what adjusters do what and where they are? I would like to set them up with your recommendations but I'm not sure what I'm looking at and can't find a good reference for the OEM suspension. The other problem I have is that I know I will have to sell the bike in less than 3 years to come back to the US which is why I haven't taken it to a shop to get stronger springs and better valves. I just don't want this bike "bucking" when I go over bumps and pot holes. With the amount of travel this thing has I feel like there HAS to be a way to get it better than it is now.

    Thank you again for the write ups!

    -Barron
  2. HerrDeacon

    HerrDeacon Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
    198
  3. Barron

    Barron M0DAH0LIC

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,403
    Location:
    Bethesda, Maryland

    AWESOME! That was EXACTLY what I was looking for!

    -Barron
  4. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,220
    Location:
    Calgary, AB
    PM me.
    I might start a thread if anyone else is interested.
    I'll talk to him Sunday to double check cost on the set.
  5. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,220
    Location:
    Calgary, AB
    neanderthal and playinatwork like this.
  6. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2018
    Oddometer:
    3,453
    Location:
    Wnc
  7. DCTFAN

    DCTFAN 2019 CRF1000LD | 2016 CRF1000LD | Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,946
    Location:
    GA
    One question about forks:
    When I first changed fork oil there was a hiss of air once the caps were loosened.
    This tells me air pressure builds up which I presume is not a good thing.
    Do you suspension gurus regularly depressurize the forks?

    For what it's worth, the user manual has 'default' settings for all these.
    When I checked them for the first time, they were mostly off.
    I tested my ride with all settings put at default values to familiarize myself and set a benchmark of sorts.
    Hoping I can tell a difference in handling once I play around with rebound and damping.

    .
    Amphib likes this.
  8. PistolPetey

    PistolPetey Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    284
    Location:
    Wild West BC
    PM sent. Thanks!
    Greg the pole likes this.
  9. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,220
    Location:
    Calgary, AB
    I wouldn't be worried about the AT being under pressure. As long as your oil level is proper, you will never have issues. unless you crack the top cap...you will not get the air out. A regular fork service is better IMO. Say every 10 to 15k km tops.

    I have air caps on my dirt bike, but those get a very regular workout, across the entire travel of the fork, and the entire ride.
    I may bleed them once a ride, or after they come out of the back of the truck, as they were compressed the entire time.
    @Motociclo will have a bette anwser for ya!
  10. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 5, 2017
    Oddometer:
    365
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Pressure should not hurt. I know a little bit about hydraulics from other applications at work. The air will be under pressure as you ride. The fork is assembled all stretched out, then sealed up and put on the bike and immediately goes into compression as you set down in the tire for the first time. Air is a compressible “fluid” and is part of the cushioning design in single and multi chamber air over oil hydraulic systems including motorcycle stuff. The greater danger is lower pressures during extension which would cause cavitation pitting. I think some people have seen this in the guide bushing surface during rebuilds. Too much air at the top can cause this. Someone was going to put 180mm air gap. I bet he gets cavitation pitting on his innerds.
  11. Dillo

    Dillo Almost Awesome

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,067
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    Took a few pictures of how I wired in the flasher relay. Unfortunately I only just noticed they came out blurry :fpalm


    I used a few of these contacts I had laying around from Eastern Beaver. They're the ones you'd use if you're trying to use one of the bike's OP connectors:

    20190411_212240.jpg


    I crimped them onto the end of the leads from the flasher relay and then stuck them into the connector on the bike. Then I put a piece of heat shrink around the connectors and filled it with silicone to make a sort of ghetto connector. Repeat for the connector that has to be jumped (behind and on the right in this pic):

    20190411_212202.jpg



    Important note: For ABS bikes (both manual and DCT) The service manual says to remove the ABS modulator to get to the flasher relay. It turns out that not only is that not necessary, the manual also points you to remove a component that...isn't there? See here:

    Capture.JPG

    The relay looks like this:
    Relay.JPG

    You can pretty easily wiggle the relay out without touching the ABS modulator. You might need to remove the ETC tray - I already had removed mine to do some other stuff and I as I'm sitting here at work without the bike in front of me I can't remember if it would have made a difference. Either way the ETC tray is pretty easy to remove:
    ETC Tray.JPG
    Pcfly and windowto like this.
  12. Pcfly

    Pcfly Dude?! Seriously??

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,907
    Location:
    North of the Columbia River
  13. Pcfly

    Pcfly Dude?! Seriously??

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,907
    Location:
    North of the Columbia River
    I noticed these highlights too. Manual and where stuff is do not match......its a pain. The only way I found it easy to get to that relay on my bike was to lift the tank. Its actually under the tank and not at all under that tray under the seat so that leads to a whole process of unnecessary work.

    At this point everything is on hold until I receive the new male caps to plug into the harness. Everything else seems to be in place.

    BTW, thank you for posting the pictures, I cross checked my work and we match so thats a great sign. Can't wait to get this all finished and run my bike down the street with the new Fog Lights (LED turn signals).:lol3 Damn things are BRIGHT!
  14. zgfiredude

    zgfiredude RMAR

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,549
    Location:
    Western Slope of Colorado
    Ditto, if you'd make it I would but it.
    neanderthal likes this.
  15. PistolPetey

    PistolPetey Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    284
    Location:
    Wild West BC
    just got my ADVrider swag. Pretty good deal for donating to the site! With the amount I've learned in here the donation has paid for itself a zillion times over, even if I didn't get a shirt and stickers.
    IMG_3724.jpg
    lqgsrider, bentlink, Pcfly and 5 others like this.
  16. Dillo

    Dillo Almost Awesome

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2014
    Oddometer:
    1,067
    Location:
    Massachusetts
    I took the tank off like a week ago to start on a bunch of small wiring jobs and the tail is taken apart for the same reason so now I can't remember where anything is unless I'm actually standing next to the bike.
    Redclayrider likes this.
  17. koodikindral

    koodikindral n00b

    Joined:
    May 5, 2018
    Oddometer:
    2
    Location:
    Estonia
    What to do if it's bent? Need to replace the front instrument panel/screen holder? Or can it be straightened?
    Tried to straighten it by releasing front triple tree bottom bolts and bar risers from the bottom, but didn't help. Will try to also release front axle nut and fender next time and pump the forks. If it doesn't help then the nose is skewed :D
  18. PhaseShifter

    PhaseShifter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    425
    Location:
    The Dutch Mountains
  19. DCTFAN

    DCTFAN 2019 CRF1000LD | 2016 CRF1000LD | Supporter

    Joined:
    Mar 17, 2016
    Oddometer:
    1,946
    Location:
    GA
    I don't think it is necessary to undo front axle nut.
    More importantly, you should loosen one set of axle pinch bolts; preferably the side opposite the axle nut as described in the service manual.
  20. Nikoutdoor

    Nikoutdoor Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2013
    Oddometer:
    172
    Location:
    NW Arkansas
    Try loosening the parch nuts on the underside of upper bridge of the triple clamp. Then loosen your handlebars from the perches and make sure your handlebars are square with your upper bridge. I had an accident back in October and that's what it took to finally get mine straightened out. I had thought that the rubber vibration isolators were damaged in the upper bridge. But it was just the handle bars were tweaked in the purchase and I had loosen the handlebars themselves to get it straight.