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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.
stuck on a log
Check this out.
Yes. The windshield that comes on the ATAS is the same windshield that they were selling as the larger touring windshield for the 16 and 17 they came with the extra hardware (2 bolt with a plastic and rubber washer, 2 wellnuts and 2 aluminum collars that go on the wellnuts)
Anybody got a link to which valve shim kit you used? Google is proving useless.
Also, I'm wanting to change the fork oil. From reading the threads and manual, it appears this is a total disassembly project? Is there a quick easy way? (never tackled this before and very intimidated) Any links would be great. Again Google not much help. Most info I found was pertaining to swaps and upgrades. I'm not ready yet, but felt I should be keeping up with the service. Tia!
Yeah , it’s kind of a total disassembly unless you are planning on not replacing the seals while you have them off. I would replace the seals with the Kawasaki ones. You are talking fork valve shims not engine right?
A lot of the 2016 models are coming off finance this year. After Honda UK employed some aggressive finance strategies (0pct apr). Naturally these will make a fantastic used buy, but looking for info on here seems pretty hard with some good banter in between.
A late 2016 model non DCT has come up for sale locally, 5k miles. What should a buyer of a used one be looking for and what issues can I expect to face now it is also out off warranty? What essential must-haves are there for the Africa Twin? Cheers.
Engine valve shims. I'm trying to mitigate some costs by accumulating a bunch of stuff over time. I plan on tearing the bike down this winter.... Or when I get a hole in my schedule.
But the forks...... Actually I appreciate your comment. I've got 14,000 hard miles on the bike. I didn't really want to worry about the suspension until next year, but the miles are adding up. I didn't really want to do too much to the forks until I could totally upgrade.
But if changing the oil is such an involved process, I guess I'd look at replacing anything that might be worn. (I have no idea why, but this suspension stuff flies over my head.) I'm grateful for any advice, options, opinions, or comments.
It'll be late next spring before I can consider throwing bigger money at it.
I've had no issues with my 17. I absolutely adore the bike. My advice would be to get a beefier bash plate, handguards, crash bars at a bare minimum. Depending on your weight, pillion or not, gear you carry, I'd suggest saving for a suspension upgrade. It's been a perfect bike for me.
Engine valve shims..........
Is this what I should buy?
My satisfaction went up 1000% by doing the following to the forks.
Changed to ATAS uppers.
.72 cogent springs.
Honda dust seals.
I think I posted my shopping list somewhere on here.
I haven’t revalved the front yet. Will do in December. Springs alone change the beast incredibly. The dive disappears upon breaking.
My fork oil poured out like crude oil. You need to change it. Them Honda seals are going to give too. Not an AT issue all motorcycles need this service.
Your posts were my inspiration. I'm planning on taking the direction you took. I'll search for your shopping list.
So bare minimum..... Change oil and seals. Springs don't look very expensive? Service the forks with original uppers now...... And in spring get atas uppers and revalve.... Will that plan work?..... With new springs? (thinking about compatibility)
Just found your shopping list. Wow. Those uppers are far cheaper than I thought. When looking I thought the pair price was for a single! Hmmm, I need to rethink this.
Again, I'm kind of mystified by this process and intimidated, like I've got to diffuse a landmine or something. I've got no trepidation doing the valve thing, but I'm not wrapping my head around the suspension stuff.
What special tools are mandatory?
A while back, the SKF fork seals seemed to be expensive. Maybe the exchange rate, don't know. They seem pretty cheap, now.
I just did my forks with Cogent springs, SKF seals, and 10wt oil. Got the seals and oil from Konflict.
Springs from Cogent. Didn't revalve, either. Also, Cogent shock spring.
Might have got the tools from Konflict, too.
New OEM Bushings and stuff.
Turned the tubes going back in, because there was a little wear. Not worried, after reading Motociclo, JungleJeff, and GregthePole and all they have done. Maybe ATAS uppers next time.
It definitely changes the bike.
A seal driver helps. Motionpro makes a good one.
And a little flat plate that holds the spring down so that you can get the top cap back on. I made one from a piece of sheet metal.
Oh, and spring compressor. But I used some heavy wire bent in a 'S' shape and a ratchet straps around the bottom of the vise. Look for "The Tenerist" web site. Greg has a good write up and videos of doing all of this.
What brought this on was yesterday, riding at slow speed into a gas station, I noticed some stiction for the first time. Thinking it through, and the hard riding, water and mud.... I am ocd keeping the wiper and lowers clean, but figured it was time for an oil change. I've gained a few pounds and have been doing more loaded riding, figured I'd need to start thinking about upgrading. Just not confident in my skills or what direction to take.
I'll check out his site again. I saw it when looking into changing the oil and was hoping to avoid complete disassembly.
I didn't use the shims, like he suggested. I added them, felt a little tight,. So took them out. But what maybe I did need them, who knows.
I think it probably needs revalved. I'll play with the settings for a while. But, I remember one of the guys here saying that the valving just doesn't adjust enough for the new spring rates.
.72 Cogent front, and 10.9 rear spring rates.
I haven't really noticed stiction yet, 14,000 miles.
One fork the oil was clean, the other was dirty. Both tubes had wear, but not bad. That's why I marked the outside of the tubes with a sharpie and put them back in rotated from the original position.
How many miles on yours?
If you find a shim kit for the engine valves, would you post it here? Buying individual pieces would be a lot of trouble. I need to check mine soon, too. Thanks!