The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. Merlin44

    Merlin44 XR400R & Africa Twin Supporter

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  2. Merlin44

    Merlin44 XR400R & Africa Twin Supporter

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    I think it probably needs revalved. I'll play with the settings for a while. But, I remember one of the guys here saying that the valving just doesn't adjust enough for the new spring rates.
    .72 Cogent front, and 10.9 rear spring rates.

    I haven't really noticed stiction yet, 14,000 miles.
    One fork the oil was clean, the other was dirty. Both tubes had wear, but not bad. That's why I marked the outside of the tubes with a sharpie and put them back in rotated from the original position.
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  3. Merlin44

    Merlin44 XR400R & Africa Twin Supporter

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    How many miles on yours?

    If you find a shim kit for the engine valves, would you post it here? Buying individual pieces would be a lot of trouble. I need to check mine soon, too. Thanks!
  4. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    I am guessing they are the same 10mm shims as cr450 but will not know till a do the same as you.Honda only uses 2 shim diameter sizes from my experience. As for your forks just pull caps and dump.I flush forks with atf(cheap and safe)It is around a 10 wt and stays thin in cold weather like fork oil.Therefore if there is a bit left after flush no harm done.I highly recommend cogent for springs and it is worth for us big strong American dudes. I never had problem with stock seals but I run zip on seal savers.I did use sks black seals when I rebuilt (7200 miles)that I got from race tech.Those goofy zip on things have saved me a lot of labor since i started using them.I would replace the seals on my offroad bikes at least once a year and after i started using them i never had another seal go.
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  5. Lost Cartographer

    Lost Cartographer Been here awhile

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    Intake valves adjust using shims.
    Exhaust valves have screw adjusters.

    I'm wiling to bet that you won't need to adjust the intakes, they generally don't move nearly as much as the exhausts. At 15,000 miles only 1 of my exhausts needed adjustment, all of my intakes were perfect.

    Has anyone out there needed to adjust intake valves yet?


    Not really. Yes you COULD just unscrew the fork cap and pour the old oil out, then flush with ATF and refill with fork oil.

    BUT

    When doing it that way there is no way of knowing exactly what your new oil height is. You could measure the amount of oil that you pour out and if you are really meticulous you might get the same amount of oil back in, but there is no telling what was in there in the first place. As someone else has pointed out on here, there is good evidence that some forks were overfilled from the factory (a large number of bikes blew fork seals the first time they went off road, which generally is a sign of overfilled forks). If there were some overfilled ones, there were probably some underfilled ones as well.

    ALSO

    New fork springs and a revalve make a big improvement.

    If you are going to keep the bike I'd just do the whole thing at once.
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  6. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    Same as you, 14,000 I found this but am not confident it's the right one. I'd like to have shims on hand when I do this, whether it needs it or not. I just want some confirmation from someone who knows or has already done the valves.

    https://www.partzilla.com/product/aftermarket/10BD-HOT-CAMS-HCSHIM02
  7. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    I may just dump and refill this time. I've got a trip at the end of the month. I may sacrifice some other purchases and do a complete job on the forks within the next couple of months. This is not going to be nearly expensive as I thought.
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  8. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    Yeah, I totally agree.
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  9. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    I've screen shotted all this great advice. Thank you all. I'm sure I'll have many more questions.
  10. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    I fully agree on most of what you say.My suspension is fully tricked out.The only thing I don't agree on is oil height. Drop the springs in and set oil height at 55mm with suction tool.Motociclo and me went through the extra work to find this info.Using volume method on forks is pretty useless.At 55mm you end up with stock air gap no matter what springs you use.I just suggested the oil change and seal savers to keep his forks in good shape till he is ready to tackle the whole thing.
  11. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    55mm from oil to the top of fork?
  12. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv Been here awhile

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    $300 for springs overall. You want to do the shock at the same time or you will have geometry dissatisfaction. I used the motion pro seal seater thingy for the forks and two tusk spring compressors for the rear. Cheap and Worked just fine.

    I recently had my shock revalved and rebuilt by Konflict. But before that I put a 10.3 spring on it from cogent and rode 2500 miles with inappropriate rebound and compression damping for the spring. Even with the wrong valving it was STILL a huge improvement from stock. Getting to the right sag is huge. We talk a lot about suspension valves here but oh man getting to the right sag I think does even more. I came to this opinion by doing this in steps.

    Step 1. .72 straight rate springs in forks. Dive goes away which helps but now I have geometry instability because back is still low. Also did ATAS uppers at this point. Drive 2000 miles between 1 and 2.

    Step 2. Stronger spring in rear. Stability came back. Bike is transformed but can kick like a mule on aggressive washout ruts on dirt. drive 2500 miles between step 3 and 4

    Step 3. Revalve rear shock by a true pro. Suspension shop. Bike feels like a million bucks. Now the imperfections in the fork damping are spotlighted because everything else is iron out.

    Step 4. Revalve forks. This will be in December.

    Don’t follow in my footsteps. Do all the springs at once!!! Make step 1 and 2 simultaneous. Geometric instability feels dangerous at high speed. This is my opinion from my experience on my bike that sag is more important than damping.
  13. Merlin44

    Merlin44 XR400R & Africa Twin Supporter

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    Yes, 55mm when forks are verticle. That measurement is after the springs are dropped in.
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  14. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    Fork fully compressed,damper rod all the way down and bled out.A Turkey blaster with I hose with marks work as a oil sucker.I use big plunger type things I got from tractor supply that farmers use on there cows.
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  15. gve.mcmlxxiv

    gve.mcmlxxiv Been here awhile

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    As far as my advice goes remember that I’m a noob. I got my first motorcycle when I was 38. Although sometimes the best person to help a 1st grader is a 3rd grader. Lol. There are some pro level peeps on here that have literally saved me thousands of dollars with their instructions and time so I’m happy to help anyway I can.
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  16. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Also, just removing the fork cap and pouring the old oil out doesn't allow you to purge out the old oil in the cartridge, or bleed the air out after refilling.
  17. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    20190908_112352.jpg
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  18. Amphib

    Amphib A mind is like a parachute....

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    I'm amazed by all this great info. I just broke the news to my wife about my upcoming purchases. :lol3

    I'm about 195lbs

    .72 and 10.3 sound appropriate?
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  19. Merlin44

    Merlin44 XR400R & Africa Twin Supporter

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    That's right where I am at and what, 190-200, :) Cogent suggested. But then, they only have one rear spring rate. Konflict uses a little softer rear spring. I did Cogent front and back. But yes, the front at .72 is good. They have a heavier spring, but you wouldn't need that one.
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  20. Junglejeff1

    Junglejeff1 Long timer

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    I have a 10.3 on mine and good all around spring.I just leave it set for 2 up.I ride quite a bit more sporty 1 up so never bother twisting preload down anymore.The .82,s in forks are slightly stiff and have my compression backed way out.I am down to a slim trim 203lb stealthy american body now.I should have listened to Rick and went with .72,s.Going to revalve gold valve,s a tad in front to take better advantage of those heavier springs.
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