The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    I think its way under the seat. Why you trying to get to it.
    just so you know, its not a regular turn signal relay. It's a complicated POS due to the two wire set up on the front.
  2. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    I love that part of Cali. ride the coast, take some barely used paved road east...ride south..ride west to coast..repeat!
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  3. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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  4. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    age may be an issue.
    Both the dust seal and oil seal are a bit shit right from the get go.
    Get the dealer to replace it, or strip the fork and upgrade to a better seal.
    https://thetenerist.wordpress.com/2018/10/06/2017-honda-crf-1000-africa-twin-fork-inspection/
  5. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Can't remember who said it, but the OEM AT seals are generally understood "to be made of cheese".

    If the dealer picks up the cost you'll buy some time before you have to do it again, but the preferred solution is to use better (non-Honda) seals. I wonder if the dealer will install seals you bring in?
  6. chittyrox

    chittyrox Been here awhile Supporter

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    Recommend SKF seals.
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  7. redneckmech

    redneckmech No burrito left behind!

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    I guess I didn't update after mine left a puddle on the shop floor a couple weeks ago. (Bad Africa Twin! No high octane!)

    I was able to successfully clean the seal with a business card so have managed to buy more time until I get a set of SKF seals.
  8. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    I'm not sure I was that nice as calling them as made of cheese...link above
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  9. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    I'm gonna try something a bit unorthodox with mine ... by putting a zip-tie very tightly on the tube thinking that it'll get quickly pushed down by the usual travel of the forks and will wait for a more significant compression event to shove it down further.

    When that happens, it may strip off much crud as it goes relieving a lot of the burden on the cheesey dust wiper. I suppose it could cause a problem if full travel is used but it has been a long time since I've hit the stops when riding. It may just get busted off or it'll put the wiper out of its misery ... and then its rebuild time.

    Good mitigations to ya!
  10. redneckmech

    redneckmech No burrito left behind!

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    There should be enough tube left for the zip tie once the fork is bottomed. I used to use that trick for adjusting mountain bike forks with good results.
    Good luck!
  11. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    nifty shifty..:D
  12. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    @Olde Phart
    That would work as a pre dust seal. you will have plenty of space left, but...the zip tie will stay in place once you compress it once, it will not come back up.
    Basically it will stay in the lowest position. Crud will form above it, and leave the dust seal to do the job.
    The zip tie is perfect for checking sag on your own, but that's about it.
    You could run neoprene socks for real muddy stuff ( I do), but 90% of the time, I rely on the two springs holding my dust seal down, and wipe the tubes, once i stop after some muddy conditions.
    btw...you'd have to hit some serious air to bottom out the fork completely.
  13. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    Rear wheel bearing question to all HAT owners.

    Will copy paste into AT problem thread.

    This only applies to folks with mileage over 30kkm/ 18k in old money, that ride their ATs in the shit...mud water...whatever.

    How many have gone and replaced the right bearing. It's prone to some failures (my Richard, @gperkins (Graeme from Oz,) any one else?
    full write up by Graeme here:
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/rtw-on-a-h-a-t-in-the-slow-lane.1172713/page-37#post-34378895

    Graeme put me on to going to a double row bearing,
    OEM is a 6204RS, 47mm by 20mm by 14mm
    suggested is 4204RS, 47mm by 20mm by 18mm. This would require machining the spacer down to shave off 3.8mm as per below.

    talking to my bearing supplier in town, below info:

    6204RS (Sealed) in stock, and cheap as chips. $13 CDN
    4204RS/UU he scratched his head, and told me that he does have double row sealed,
    but they are 20.6mm wide! he calls it a a 3204RS.
    Still ID/OD 20mm/47 but a staggering $75 CDN per.

    I picked up two 6204s, and will simply swap them every 25-30kkm as they are stupid cheap, and with a bearing pulller a 5 minute job once wheel is off.

    While I'm in there this week, I'll re-measure the spacer, and see if his 20.6mm would likely push out the seal needed,
    and in turn need to run the 3204RS bare with no seal. Probably not ideal.
    Per Graeme's post, spacer is 9.4mm, so in order to make the double row fit (20.6mm), the spacer would need to have a whopping 6.6mm lobbed off it, to leave it with 2.8mm..which might not give enough clearance.

    Long story short... the 3204RS is the cheapest, least PITA to go with for me.
    I think the 30kkm interval should be ok for me
  14. PistolPetey

    PistolPetey Been here awhile Supporter

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    Thanks Greg,

    Has anyone felt any play in the wheel to indicate the bearing is pooched?
    My rear wheel is still solid when checking for side to side play, but based on the amount of mud I've been through...im thinking i might wanna check it out.

    thanks
  15. Moshaholic2

    Moshaholic2 PCUT

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  16. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    oddly enough I checked mine this winter, and it seems solid...but I think it's one of those,
    fine today, pooched tomorrow. So I'll simply add this to my service interval, and pull it/toss it every 25kkm or so.
  17. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    Yup, that'll be a manual process at the end of the day ... just like draggin' my very post-middle-aged ass up into bed after the dishes are done and that last bottle of beer has been emptied. :lol3

    Good schleppin' to ya!
  18. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    yeah...it ends up with mixed results. The LEDs from Chinnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnaaa all work in different ways.
    Front flashes fast, and is not super bright, rear seems a bit better.
    I have leftovers from the rear, so will swap them out, next time the fairings are off.
    On a postive note, they are tiny and bend, so sort of a win..
    [​IMG]
  19. Greg the pole

    Greg the pole There are no stupid questions, only stupid people

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    lol..you will be buys.
    suggest to simply check the fork after a muddy ride, and wipe it. Done. The dust seals will do their job while on the ride, but once the crud dries, it will blow through them, no questions asked.
  20. redneckmech

    redneckmech No burrito left behind!

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    I haven't had it on the ATAS yet but my Vstrom uses the same bearing in the same location and I have had 3 of them let loose (the first in spectacular fashion I might add).
    Got bad enough that I carry an extra set on the bike along with a punch and a hammer and I can tell you that from pulling over to taking off again I can change them in 26 minutes.

    MAKE SURE YOU ARE GETTING QUALITY BEARINGS.
    Years ago I got one set of inexpensive bearings that I could see daylight through the bearing because the seals were not touching inner race.
    I only run SKF now.