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Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.
I gave up and ordered the Kawasaki seals. Part # 92049-0118.
I"ve had both 1st ad 2nd gen KLRs. The AT does feel heavier, but not by much.
I've done some challenging stuff on my Super tenere, and AT, and would take them anywhere I'd take a klr.
That said, it's complete night and day to the KLR.
I run a SC rally seat, in the high position. I'm 5'9" and it never bothers me, even in the tricky stuff.
One note, I ran a GS tank bag for the longest time, and it had a lot of shit in it.
Since then, I stopped using it off road, and it did wonders for the top heavy feel of a fully loaded bike. I transfered the bulk of the weight into the crash bar bags.
With a full tank and no tank bag, I don't notice the heft of the AT.
Buy a 2019 or older, put in ATAS tubes, do a re-spring and re-valve. Enjoy the bike.
I did the M wilderness road back in August 2019 on my 2015 Forester CVT.
I came in from the east.
Back in 2014 I tried to take the M C road but there was still lots of snow in July!! I was on the MIGHT DR back then.
Have a great summer. Spring is a total wash.
My shop quoted me at 8 hrs labour for the full 24k km service. Another 2 hrs for sprockets and chain replacement. 10 Hours total. That sounds fairly reasonable to me, but it sure hurts the pocket book. (FYI 10 hrs plus parts = approx. $1800 CAD.)
Is that about what you guys figure is reasonable?
I will take the crash bars off beforehand, and maybe the plastics too since I will be changing my air filters this week anyway. Maybe that will knock an hour off the total time?
I haven't done the valves before on a twin. I'm sure it would take me more than a full day and I don't have a place to set up to work on my bike for a while, so it looks like I'm going to be ponying up the cash. It goes against my DNA to pay for someone else to do work that I could. But this is the life I chose when I loved into a tiny apartment downtown in a big city.
Guys- is there a big difference between the 18 and the 19 AT? In my area there is about a $500-1K difference in price between the 2. Is the 19 worth $500 more?
Paint options? That’s about it.
They made quite a few changes from 2017 to 2018, and again from 2019 to 2020, but 2018 and 2019 are mechanically identical. Just paint options.
Thanks! That what I gathered.
My Honda flat rate manual gives a time of 7.65 hours for a 16,000 mile service (includes valve adjustment).
Thanks! That settles it.
Same flat rate times for all 16-19 16,000 miles service. I would ask what's included in the service.
It looks like you got two topics mixed together - I was asking about the differences in purchase price between a 2018 and a 2019. I think the fella a few post back was asking about the service.
Man...that's a shit ton of money. I can't really say, as I muddled my way through it myself. BTW...it took me 6 hrs.. 1st time and I took my time.
That said, all my valves were in spec (not down the middle, but close, just adjusted the exh. valves). Unless you wheelied off every light, and bounced it off the rev limiter on a reg. basis...it will be in spec. So why not stretch the interval to say 32k? I'm a quick rider...and don't baby the motor...and mine was fine.
I did mine at 26.5 and will likely not do the next one till 60 or 70k.
If you do go through it, do ask them if the price includes all valves, i.e. if intake is out, that means cct needs to come out, which is even more time.
If that's the case, make sure they charge you for 4 shims max! bastards better not charge you for 8 shims!
btw...2 hrs for sprocket and chain...come on!
Front: take cover off, use large breaker bar/impact to spin off front sprocket. 10 minutes
Rear, unbolt sprocket from hub-5 minutes
Old chain-use cut off tool to cut chain-5 minutes
Remove rear wheel, install new sprocket-10 minutes
Reinstall rear wheel, and install new sprocket-10 minute
Rivet new chain-10 minutes
I count 50 minutes with 10 to spare..WTF. Keep in mind that a typical Journey man makes 35-40/hr...I know they have to keep the lights on and all the other bs, but that's still $140 towards that per hour...so keep them honest.
So I got to my rear right bearing.
Big thanks to @gperkins for the alternate 4204 swap suggestion. In the end the 6204 was 1/5 the price, and should last 25-30kkm without issue.
I borrowed my friends bearing puller. After much vernacular use...I reverted to using the tried and true method of a long cheater bar, the spacer had just enough play to go tapity tap tap, tappity...one side then alternate to the other side...tappity tap tap and out she came.
OEM bearing was a NSK 6204DU. I replaced it with a FAG 6204RS. Removed the old grease from the rubber seal, and re-greased.
My guess is that it would have gone another 5-7k and shit the bed in a fabulous fashion.
the outer (disk side) was in decent shape,
the inner, had a bit of rust, and the seal was not as sound as the outer.
Logic dictates, that moisture gets in from the inside of the rim, and eventually gets to the rollers and cocks them up.
The spacer had a bit of rust where it was in contact with the rim lip towards the sprocket side.
I pulled both seals off, was a touch gross, but decent shape. Rim side.
I WD40'd the entire bearing, cleaned it out with air, and it was relatively in good shape. It did have a bit of grind when spun, and a tiny bit of play with no grease.
I'll pull this one and replace it at 55 or 60k.
7.65 hrs includes removing the cam if needed among other things that are listed in the owners manual. I think most shops would charge less if cam removal wasn't needed. I often see valves adjustments needed on the first interval.
90% of the ones that chime in that did the valves on their ATs, were within spec. Mine, below, were pretty much bang down the middle for intake, and on the loose side for exhaust, which is where I moved them to anyways..exhaust valves have a tendency to close up.
It's a bit of a honda thing. I'm not saying to skip it, I did mine, I'm saying that he could put it off, without much adverse effect.
My super tenere needed it at 1st interval (40kkm), and so did the other two or three that I did for friends.
As far as the quote is concerned, as long as the write everything out that's included, and don't need to do it (intakes will be fine) then he's laughing.
I agree about 10% on average of all bikes need a adjustment on the first service. Occasionally some have very tight valves on the first service. This is what I see in the shop on a daily basis for the last 30 years. I personally wouldn't skip any of the intervals for the valve adjustment.
Agreed. For those that are fortunate enough to have the space, yeah, absolutely. But deferring the adjustment might be an option.
I wouldn't do what this guy did...that's just dumb. Is it starting fine? yes, is it running fine? yes...leave it...so he goes home and leaves it for another 75kkm
To each his own
Correct, I would have no problem running the bike a little longer and wait for the off season.
No friends with garage space you can work in for a couple days? Heck, even plying them with beer and bourbon and a nice dinner puts you ahead.