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The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. smalls78

    smalls78 Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2017
    Oddometer:
    490
    Location:
    NC/SC
    sheath likes this.
  2. smalls78

    smalls78 Been here awhile Supporter

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    So my Africa Twin came with lots of stuff already installed. It's awesome and I'm happy with that. But I don't know what is stock and what is not. For example, I'm getting some handlebar vibes I didn't really notice on another Africa Twin I test rode. Mine has Barkbusters Storm guards and what I believe is the OEM upper crash bars and skid plate. I pulled the Barkbuster end cap off and did notice the internal brass weight has been retained and assume this is OEM. The Barkbuster install calls for this to remain and I do believe it's in there. But where are the vibes coming from? You think the Barkbuster brackets themselves are causing vibes? Are the OEM crash bars known to cause vibes? Tomorrow I plan on loosening the crash bar bolts and re torquing to see if any difference. But I wonder about the Barkbusters. I don't have the OEM hand guards to swap back on and try out.
  3. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    Nov 3, 2017
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    Define “vibes.” The AT is a 270 degree twin - you’re gonna get some vibrations in the chassis, it’s not a glass smooth purr. They never bother me, feel the same as the Tenere I had before which is also a big 270 ptwin.
    neanderthal likes this.
  4. smalls78

    smalls78 Been here awhile Supporter

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    Oddometer:
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    NC/SC
    Went back out to the garage late last night because this was driving me nuts. Yep, the Barkbusters were loose at the handlebar clamp area on the left side. The heated grip switch is also bolted on to the clamp at this area. The bolt on the left side lower upper crash bar mount was also pretty loose comparable to what I thought it should be. It was just slightly more than hand tight.
    I bet this to be the problem. I should've check this before posting and getting all pissy. My bad folks.
  5. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    Hopefully it's that but I was going to suggest wheel imbalance and/or improperly adjusted chain.
  6. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    Dec 5, 2015
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    3,281
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    Cypress, TX
    I have the same barkbusters on my bike. No vibration issues, but my last bike was a DR650. Smooth for a single, but not glass smooth at all.
  7. N0madic

    N0madic Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2019
    Oddometer:
    107
    Location:
    Appalachians
    Barkbusters on my ATAS and no additional vibration with Storm or VPS covers.
    smalls78 likes this.
  8. smalls78

    smalls78 Been here awhile Supporter

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    It was either the loose Barkbuster bracket (fixed) or the lower crash bar bolt. Back to regular scheduled riding and bitching about other stuff like oil and tires....thanks all
    cblais19 likes this.
  9. wytco0

    wytco0 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    42
    Hi All, after a long break I am about to get back on my 2016 DCT CRF1000L, its not been used for about a year but its kept in a warm garage and connected to a battery conditioner.

    After a good check over I attempted to start it but when I turn the key on the display lights up and I can hear the fuel pump, the headlights seem bright and I thought great this will be fine but when I press the starter it clicks and does not engage the starter motor. This may be a bad battery but before I change it I wanted to check a couple of things:
    1. Is there a way of starting the CRF1000l with an external battery? its such a pain to get at the the battery that I don't want to take it out and then find that its fine anyway. Are there any connections on the bike that I can connect another battery too?
    2. Any other ideas what might be wrong with it?
    Cheers
  10. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    Oddometer:
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    Land of Oro y Plata
    It sounds like you have the bad starter switch issue. They were known to have troubles when gotten wet ... search this thread for more info.

    Good diagnostics to ya!
  11. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    Possibly that, but if you have the original battery in there still not a bad idea to do a replacement anyway. The DCT bikes seem more sensitive to low battery voltage; mine was having lots of starting issues last year that all went away when I plugged a new Yuasa in.
  12. wytco0

    wytco0 Adventurer

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    May 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    42
    OK I will look into that although my bike rarely gets wet, one question how do I search this thread? I did a general search for starter problems but it come up with stuff from other threads.
  13. wytco0

    wytco0 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 11, 2014
    Oddometer:
    42
    Yes its the original battery and It may well be that but I wanted to try and confirm it before forking out for new one, is there a way to connect another external battery to check?
  14. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    Land of Oro y Plata
    At the top of the page you'll see the search bar with the magnifying glass icon. Enter your term like "starter" and then select from the other options to search only this thread and then walk through the results.
  15. NorskieRider

    NorskieRider Long timer

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    I'm not aware that there are battery access terminals elsewhere. But the next time you're in the battery hole I'd suggest you install an SAE dongle for that very purchase.

    Once you have access to the battery terminals use your multimeter to measure the voltage; should be > 12v ... if not, charge it and try again later. When you thumb the starter it should stay above 10v. If not, battery has no capacity left, time to replace (although I've heard good things about Optimus battery re-conditioner).
  16. dankly1

    dankly1 Just searchin Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2017
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Boise
    Hello all. Just picked up a 19 ATAS DCT last weekend. It was a media demo for a month and has 2700 miles on the clock. Went for my first long ride yesterday, supposed to be around 200 miles, with over half of it on various dirt/gravel roads. It ran great for the first half of the ride and we stopped to eat lunch. Within 20 minutes of getting going after lunch the bike started to lose power periodically. It was just like the fuel would shut off and then back on after a few seconds. It was either on or off, never just reduced power. I continued to ride because we were in the middle of nowhere and it kept getting more frequent and for longer periods of time as we went.

    I tried all different modes (Drive, Sport, Manual, Gravel, etc) but there was no change. It was 85-90 degrees F out and we were riding between 4500 and 6000 ft of elevation. I had a fresh tank of gas with no less than a half tank at any time during the ride. There was no improvement when I topped off.

    To me, it seems like a fuel pump or fuel delivery issue. Are these bikes known to have contaminated fuel tanks from the factory? I was riding rough roads, so it's possible that sediment in the tank could've been stirred up? Eventually, it became more frequent and I could only ride a few hundred yards without it cutting out. When I was coasting, there was no response to throttle movement, but then it would kick back in and I would take off again. On 3 occasions, it didn't "kick back in" and I coasted to a stop and the engine died. It always started right up after it died. It wasn't safe to continue so I had to call a friend to come and load the bike in the back of his truck and drive me 1.5 hours to the Honda dealer. The bike still has 11 months of warranty left so I hope they can fix me up.

    Anyone have any ideas of what it could be? Thanks!
  17. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    You may have water in the fuel or the grey spooge flaking off of the internal welds and clogging the fuel pump pickup filter (a notorious and rather well known problem on the ATAS). Pulling the tank and the fuel pump to inspect the internals is the only way to tell.

    Good fuel flow to ya!
    dankly1 and neanderthal like this.
  18. MillennialFalcon

    MillennialFalcon Improvement starts with self

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2017
    Oddometer:
    1,055
    Location:
    Rocky Mountains
    After experiencing fork gate for my standard AT and now reading about tank gate for the ATAS, I'll never buy a new Honda again. At this rate I'll just buy a KTM or Husqvarna so at least I know going into ownership that reliability is a question from the beginning instead of thinking I have something bulletproof then discovering the issues haphazardly with zero acknowledgement from the mfg. The bigger KTMs all have websites dedicated to documenting known issues and fixes - fantastic resources if that's what you sign up for and something like a 950 Super Enduro or 790R may just be worth that hassle. My AT has been worth the hassle but only because it is a solid design and it meets my specific needs at the moment (two-up 50/50) - but I would have never bought the thing if I had known about fork gate would bubble up. So now to wait for the forthcoming 500 twin KTM or Norden 901. I could even do Ducati Multistrada at some point as I fully convincing that Euro and Japanese reliability have finally met in the middle.
  19. cblais19

    cblais19 Long timer

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    Or buy a Yamaha and continue to get the best reliability in the business?
    Fyrpiper likes this.
  20. MikefromNL

    MikefromNL Long timer

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    Dec 31, 2017
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    I have an antigravity microstart (The Sport model- smallest case etc). I can hook it straight to the terminals on the battery without removing it to jump the battery. It is tight and you have to get the clamps on the terminals just right, but it does work.
    Aces 6 and wytco0 like this.