The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    Off the top of my head, the Protaper Adventure bars. Not sure if you'd want the high ones it not. Check the measurements.
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  2. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    I can't say I'm looking forward to doing it, but I don't have the $1000 to pay someone for work I can do, nor do I trust anyone else to do it properly. I've been under the tank, but never any further. It'll be an adventure, I'm sure. Hopefully my knuckles survive.
  3. DaleE

    DaleE TransAlp Adv

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    Just do yourself a favor and drain/remove the radiators. The official procedure just calls for moving them slightly out of the way, but the suggestion on a detailed procedure here to remove them eventually was the right way to go.
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  4. Veeblefetzer

    Veeblefetzer Been here awhile

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    It'd definitely do-able. I think I listened to the commenters on the internet (Gah!) who said the valves at 16K are usually fine and convinced myself I didn't really need to pry the cover open to find that out. As it turned out the exhaust valves were a bit out at 18K mi., but those I think are screw adjusters? I don't have the manual with me to look that up.

    Here's my incomplete checklist of the steps (missing the parts about the radiators, throttle bodies) needed for just getting to the valve check. Also at 16 / 32K mi. there's all the other periodic maintenance; spark arrester, oil change, yadda
    (Page numbers refer to my copy of the shop manual.)

    CRF1000_valve-check.jpg
  5. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    Oh I'll be doing it, easy or not. Just not for another 12k miles or so!
  6. leethal

    leethal 3 wheel Monarch #37

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    One hose off and move radiators aside...easy. My bike I removed the coil tray without removing the throttle bodies....hard to do. On my sons bike I removed the throttle bodies....easy peasy.
    Not a hard job but a slow and tedious one. Hardest part is connecting a couple of hoses.
    Most dangerous part is relocating the valve cover.........get it on the dowls or break it.
  7. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    In the "Just because you can doesn't mean you should" department, I poached this pic from over in the https://advrider.com/f/threads/over...olorado-aug-27-29-2021.1515434/#post-42914818 thread:

    omfg.jpg

    :fpalm

    So many problems here ... note the chafing from interference on the top of the front fender and the complete lack of bracing on the 90 degree angle bends. It'll fatigue crack there and the whole thing will fall off in short order if it doesn't roach the battery first.

    Any one of the rope/block/tackle/pulley self rescue kits are far superior to this mess.

    Good keeping it simple to ya!
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  8. lqgsrider

    lqgsrider Been here awhile

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    After 4 years and 16K miles my right front fork seal is leaking. I have an extended warranty from Honda is this something that would be covered?
  9. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    Probably not. A few have had luck with that under warranty, but mostly they are considered consumables...
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  10. Olde Phart

    Olde Phart Olde Phart

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    Most likely considered a wear item and not warrantable ... as @bbanker remarked some have had success but their seal failure occurred in the first few thousand (or even a few hundred in my case) miles of ownership. I limped it along by cleaning the seals periodically but finally bit the bullet and replaced them myself. Some folks have gone with other than OEM seals preferring other brands.

    For reasons mysterious to me, the local dealer gave me pushback on trying to order the factory spring compression tool so I bought the Race Tech Spring Compression Tool along with the correct size seal driver and seal bullet. That dealer meritoriously earned a spot on my shit list and lost my business to online parts suppliers.

    With these tools, the job is not that difficult and can be performed in a few hours.

    Good DIY'ing to ya!
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  11. Black99S

    Black99S Been here awhile

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    Read your warranty document - it will state what is covered and what is considered a 'wear' item.
    Good luck!
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  12. PistolPetey

    PistolPetey Been here awhile Supporter

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    This is good advice.
    Warranty or not, I recommend a fork service and swap both seals at the same time. I’ve had great results with SKF seals on my twin, through lots of mud, dust, etc. I think it also makes a big difference to clean your forks regularly when they get dirty to prevent the bad stuff from migrating up into the seals themselves.
  13. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    Where did you get your SKF seals from?
  14. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    I used some Kawasaki seals on my first Twin. Much easier to source than SKF and double sided, unlike the stock ones. Worked great until I killed the bike. I also use full length forksavers to keep the inners clean.

    Attached Files:

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  15. PistolPetey

    PistolPetey Been here awhile Supporter

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    I got them through my local shop. I can’t remember if they had them in stock or they had to order them. This was pre-COVID so I’m not sure if supply chain problems might be an issue to get them now.
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  16. mentolio

    mentolio King of the island of unwanted toys...

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    I second the Kawasaki seals. Way better than stock!
  17. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    My OEM seals aren't leaking, I just want to swap them out for something else to try to get rid of the stiction problem I have. I was under the impression that the SKF seals were more likely to help with this problem. I believe some people also had to shim their bushings to get rid their stiction problem. Being a lighter rider I feel like my weight is making the feeling of a sticking fork more pronounced. On the street the best ride I get is with zero preload on the front.
  18. Nomadic_adv

    Nomadic_adv Been here awhile

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  19. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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  20. Bike Guy

    Bike Guy Long timer

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    A few months ago I had a leaky fork seal. The serví writer said it was a consumable item. I told him i disagreed and then I told him it was a safety issue. It was replaced without a charge
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