The Africa Twin CRF1000L Owners' Thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by erey, Dec 20, 2015.

  1. motocopter

    motocopter Long timer

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    4,077
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    mid-TN
    So much inconsistency with dealers and warranties.

    My new Goldwing has a bit of a sticking throttle that is noticeable when feather like during a curve apex, or slowing as I approach another moving vehicle. A little easing of the throttle results in an overshoot before catching it. By then the DCT has down shifted as if I was intentionally slowing down. Dealer contacted a Honda rep. He never heard of the problem and so, the dealer echoed that to me. There are others with this situation; but, I'll have to correct this myself.
  2. SkipD

    SkipD That looks stickey

    Joined:
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    Gold Coast
    I have done quite a number of valve checks now I see no advantage in doing anything but unbolting the rads, I am not sure what you would be doing that would require removal???? It does not help in doing the valve check in any way that I can see.
  3. SkipD

    SkipD That looks stickey

    Joined:
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    There is no need to remove Front Cover
    I dont remove front spoiler just remove the two push rivets
    I do not disconnect the battery
    I have a MRA windscreen that is slightly packed forward at the top so the windscreen stays on whenever you need to remove the middle cowl (that makes checking air filters or changing prefilters a 15 min job ) I can show photo if you want makes field service much easier.
    Unbolt the two main bolts on the radiator and one on the horn and the two side screws on the radiator mounts and pull off the plastic guard on the right hand side radiator only (thats the side you slide the rocker cover out and the only reason why you unbolt the rads)
    When putting back together double check that you have installed all connectors as you go.
    Its easier to install the airbox to rocker cover hose on the airbox first then when the airbox goes down install onto the rocker cover (you can get side access to attach the clip)
    Check and double check the seal on the rocker cover when it goes down, make sure its even all the way round.
    I leave the throttle cable attached to the throttle bodies
    Make sure the keys on the throttle bodies match the notch in the rubber mounts you push it into and that the nipples match the location holes on the hose clamps before you start to tighten the hose clamp, same on the airbox going down onto the throttle bodies check that there is no distortion on the tubes running from the throttle bodies into air box and all seated correctly.
    The only valve I have found out of spec was the inboard (No2 Ex) exhaust valve on No 1 cylinder. This was always at the 1st valve check 24k km and after correcting did not need adjusting in later valve checks. I have found that on 3 bikes all where 2016-17 builds I think that might have been a factory setting at the upper end of the limit.
    The only thing that is a real pain is pulling the boot off the two inner plugs, it might be worth investing in a plug boot puller tool, I just use long nose fliers but you need to be gentle and WD40 helps. Make sure you remove and check the plugs at 24k km and the service intervals after.
    Veeblefetzer likes this.
  4. Big_John

    Big_John That'll be the day

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    Here's our situation.....

    Wife and I ride a 2017 DCT that will tip the scales right at 550lbs with the goodies. We also just purchased a Class C with the Ford Chassis with the new V8 Godzilla engine that pulls like a draft horse. The receiver on the rear I-beams has a 750lb rating.

    I am considering this guy... as it has a 600lb rating.

    Any thoughts or experience to share?

    We will be making regular runs from Colorado to the Texas Hill Country over the next few years, as that is where her folks live and they are getting up in age and down in health.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NP82M1T/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A2OSE6G7MS58ZO&psc=1



    .....
  5. Todd157k

    Todd157k Long timer Supporter

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    The problem isn't the hitch. The problem is loading and unloading. First off, the carrier has some 'give' in the receiver so it will rock a little as you put the bike on/off. That throws you off balance as you step up to position the bike. Figure on stabilizing it a bit. A large bolt welded to the underside of the receiver helps to secure the hauler. Even though it's rated for 600 lbs, that is a 'static' rating. Once you hit a dip in the road, that 600 lbs (remember it's "foot lbs") can double and bend the bar that goes in the receiver. Secondly, there's no real good way to tie the bike to the RV. You tie the bike to the hauler but you need to tie it to the rig so it doesn't rock fwd/bkwd. The ladder works for lighter bikes, but as it gets heavy you won't want to tie to the ladder. I've scratched the crap out of the back of my rig loading up bikes. Having help while doing it is a BIG plus. If you can have a second smaller receiver put on your rig a couple of feet from the center, you'll have a much better set up.
    BTW.. the ramps they provide aren't nearly long enough unless your hauler is 6" from the ground.. which will hit asphalt every few feet when you're driving. Plan on a longer ramp so it won't be so steep of a climb. I put the bikes in gear and walk them with power up the ramp. It's a little tricky but saves my back. I'm NOT suggesting you do it that way, just the way I do it. It is extremely dangerous unless you're really secure with doing it.

    Attached Files:

  6. Big_John

    Big_John That'll be the day

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    Excellent info. Thanks for typing that up and sharing.

    Honestly, loading and unloading the bike is of zero concern of mine, as right now I load the AT in the back of my pickup up very steep ramps.... usually by myself..... sometimes with the wife helping. Also I have a 400lb carrier, so I understand exactly what you are saying in regard to the carrier having some sloppy movement. I think I will strap the front and back of the rails to the RV I-beams to keep it stable.

    Mostly, I was wanting to know if anyone had any experience with the carrier I posted above. There are 100's of very positive reviews that it is built like a beast and very good.


    .......
    Todd157k likes this.
  7. jjustj

    jjustj Long timer

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    Location:
    Back in Colorado. Cedaredge or delta or.....
    if you have a class c, (we have a (b) and regularly tow enclosed trailer with bikes and other fun toys!
  8. rswift-ebay

    rswift-ebay Been here awhile

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    Oct 24, 2018
    Oddometer:
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    2016 DCT valve adjustment symptoms

    Hi people, I know this question has been done to death but I wanted to ask the question whether stalling when the engine is cold could be a symptom of needing to do this adjustment. It has only started to do this in the last month or so.

    The bike has done 54,000km and it was checked at about 25,000km and was ok.

    I have searched this forum and seen many posts about clattering etc but couldn't find any about stalling apart from one which was about a warranty claim for stalling.

    Thanks in advance
  9. Todd157k

    Todd157k Long timer Supporter

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    Hard starting or excessive detonation would be valves. I would look into clogged/dirty fuel injector, low pressure (clogged filter or pump), or throttle position sensor/setting.
  10. swimmer

    swimmer armchair asshole

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    I think the stalling when cold has been traced to a faulty idle control valve/unit in most cases. Hopefully someone will come along to confirm this or tell me I am full of it.
  11. rswift-ebay

    rswift-ebay Been here awhile

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    Thank you the suggestions
  12. Big_John

    Big_John That'll be the day

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    Yeah I know... Why so long? I purchased the bike months ago and today was the first time I have really taxed the bike and challenged myself. It was about 3 hours of riding in the desert canyons of north, western Colorado.

    I have owned two KTM 950 ADV-S bikes over the past 6 years and I have raced enduros on my 450, so I can ride pretty good and have solid experience. I say this because.....

    Wow the AT with DCT is just phenomenal. I told the wife and a couple of friends... I think this bike, despite weighing 50 lbs more than my 950's is better and more capable off-road. I had a blast today the bike was planted and performed flawlessly.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Attached Files:

    loanster, Honda-50, swimmer and 4 others like this.
  13. SkipD

    SkipD That looks stickey

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    Did you put new spark plugs in at 48,000 km when they need to be replaced when you do the second valve check.
    If its a 2016 and it starts then stops then starts and stops a few times then runs ok I would say its 99 out of 100 that its the start button on the right hand switch gear. Unscrew the two screws that split the housing then unscrew the two screws that take it out of the housing take out the little spring that will try and escape. Clean the contacts with brake clean while switching back and forth use lots of it to really flush it out, then spray with dialectric spray like CRC 226 reassemble. Its a 15 min job and you will either have fixed the problem or now just have a really clean start switch and you will need to do more fault finding.
    PistolPetey and procycle like this.
  14. rswift-ebay

    rswift-ebay Been here awhile

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    Hi there. I haven't had the valves done so no I haven't changed the plugs. I was hoping to put that off for a while as I am strapped for cash.

    This is more of a stall. Not an electrical thing. When warm it runs fine just falters and dies when cold.
  15. William Wolfen

    William Wolfen Long timer

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    If the valves have never been checked and plugs never changed and you're already past the second valve check interval, I wouldn't look any further. Fix that first.f If you're strapped for cash, go grab your wrenches... I can't afford to pay a dealership either.
    Junglejeff1 likes this.
  16. bbanker

    bbanker Been here awhile Supporter

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    Mine's done that since day 1. 2017 Manual, 32K miles. Had the idle air control valve replace, and may be a little better, but still happens especially when cold. One thing that always helps is after I turn the bike on, I open the throttle quickly one time and it seems better. I think that they are just cold natured.
    Wood1, Olderslowerguy and simmons1 like this.
  17. rswift-ebay

    rswift-ebay Been here awhile

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    Yes I think you may be right.
  18. rswift-ebay

    rswift-ebay Been here awhile

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    Mine has never been this way i have had it for two years and I think I am going to have to bite the bullet and have it serviced or start to wrench it myself.
    Thanks for the input
  19. Wood1

    Wood1 Long timer Supporter

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    Hmm mine is a 2017 DCT. Down valves twice. Fine both times and replaced plugs once. Now has 38,000 miles and almost always stalls on cold starts. If I hold the throttle about an 1/8” open it starts fine. I also have had high idle prevent me from shifting into gear a few times in the last 10,000 miles. I’ve had to turn it of and restart a few times to get it to idle down. Two dealers have had no guess as to why.
    I’ve also had 2 rear wheel bearing fail. First was less than 2000 miles second was at 10,000
    Love the bike but unhappy with This kind of shit.
  20. SkipD

    SkipD That looks stickey

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
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    Gold Coast
    The right side rear wheel bearing failure can be prevented with better servicing, its water getting into the bearing, every time you put a tyre on fill the gap between the outer seal and the bearing with grease to stop water getting into the hub and the bearing sitting in water. Often when you look at bikes that have had a bearing failure you can see a tide mark on the spacer that sits between the two bearings. Even with lots of river crossings bikes that have that extra grease packed in there can get well over 100k km on a set of bearings.

    The high idle is an easy fix requires no parts and takes but a few minutes to fix, there are a number of write ups on it in here. You can go for either side of the shaft that runs through the throttle bodies. Left hand end has two screw adjusters and is harder to get to, right hand side is the small screw and lock nut down by where the throttle cables attach to the throttle body. Loosen and retighten (dont adjust the screw) the lock nut, problem will be solved. I have done this on a number of bikes seems to be a permanent fix, never comes back. The manual says its factory set and dont screw with it.

    Have never come accross the cold start issue you describe so cant help there, but I would still clean the kill/starter switch as my first step in looking at it, its a very quick procedure and you have then eliminated that as a problem.