The Africa Twin XRV650 & XRV750 thread

Discussion in 'Japanese polycylindered adventure bikes' started by iswoolley, Aug 23, 2004.

  1. Iwan Suli

    Iwan Suli Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2013
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    Tallinn
    Hangover

    Bike training 49 k.

    Took AT for a spin that became a trip to my unofficial mechanic, to adjust the idle revs (I studied the soft stuff, ok)

    AT revs repaired, but for some reason, black smoke coming from muffler.

    Ok, after some revving, smoke cleared for a bit, strange engine noise however, somewhat... ugly, not smooth and slurpy as the usula AT.

    Starting to leave mechanics farm... electrics completely gone.

    Okay, we found some weird electrical circuit/conduit thingy near fuel pump, that seemed to be burned (I did mention that maybe it is that bad connection at the battery, but that idea was dismissed for being too easy). Cleared that one. Turned the key, got the clocks back.

    Tried to start the engine, soft bang from the open circuit, slight smoke and nothing.

    Cleaned the thingy again, got the clocks, lost the clocks. Checked the battery connection. No connection (I'd like to point out at this point, that I, lawyer, suggested it 40 minutes ago). Cleaned that connection.

    Got the engine running again. Started limping home (50 k to go). Some weird "bad spark, weird pushing momentum in the revs" soon appeared.

    Got lost in the highway intersection, went 10 k totally opposite direction.

    It was fing cold.

    Reaching city, idle revs never went below 3000 rpm when stopping in traffic. Well, that hadnt happened today, what's next.

    Took the Anus Africanus to my friends garage, easier to plan repairs there.

    Friend not home, jumpstarting his Volvo at the other side of the city. Garage doors locked.

    Walked 3 k to the store and back, took beer for waiting, completely pissed at that point.

    Finally, the damn bike is in a garage... now lets fix friends cat, who got injuries, I guess from the catfight. An IT tech and lawyer performing light surgery on a domestic cat.

    Cat shat on the IT techs lap (to be fair, a little bit on my riding boots also).

    If I didnt had Honda Africa Twin, I never could have gotten most of those things done today.

    So how was your day?
    FondilMabols likes this.
  2. mrmrva

    mrmrva wannabe adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    99
    Location:
    Belgrade, Serbia
    Anyone had problem with emulsion tubes on AT? Is it possible to repair/replace these somehow (RD04 in question)?
  3. catweasel67

    catweasel67 RD04

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    17,429
    Location:
    Vienna, Austria
    Anyone care to express an opinion as to what's going on with the battery compartment here?

    It's real messy with some weirdly placed fuses. Figured I'd post here before start tinkering and blowing stuff up.

    [​IMG]
  4. raoulserban

    raoulserban vrrummm

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    121
    Location:
    Timisoara, Romania
    Looks like starter relay has been changed, adapted another model. If it works, leave it be
  5. catweasel67

    catweasel67 RD04

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    17,429
    Location:
    Vienna, Austria
    Ahh, so that's what it is :) thanks Raoul and, on the positive side, the fuses are easy to change :)
  6. ray3656

    ray3656 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Alford Aberdeenshire Scotland
    Looks like it's the original and the fuse has melted and been relocated

    Mine did that and I did exactly that to get back on the road:clap

    Have since replaced it with a starter that does not have the integral fuse and wired in a FET regulator with its own 30 amp fuse direct to the battery and retained the eternal 30 amp fuse in the bike feed line :-) as said looks ok keep an eye out for hot connections though.:clap
  7. mrmrva

    mrmrva wannabe adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    99
    Location:
    Belgrade, Serbia
    I just found out I might have swapped these so need confirmation on marks on front and rear cylinder needle.
    Only info I found in this thread RD04 Original Carburetor Needle Size
    so would like another confirmation if possible. It says in the thread above that J83A goes to the back cylinder and 9TI8 to the front.
    Is this correct?
  8. Fliegenfischer

    Fliegenfischer Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    65
    Location:
    Hannover
    Front is 9 T B not 9 T I 8.
  9. mrmrva

    mrmrva wannabe adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    99
    Location:
    Belgrade, Serbia
    Thanks Fliegenfischer for confirmation :wave It is 9TB but the B is a bit strangely written. I had to register on german forum Africa Twin friends, and there are few topics that confirm needle position over there also. I have definitely swapped them and one has a slight wear now in the middle but will have to do because they are not available anymore and it seems they are specific to AT and TA.
  10. Stormforce8

    Stormforce8 Farkle Tart

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    598
    Location:
    New Forest, England
    NRP Carb Specialist would be a good place to try for new needles - they don't list everything they have, so worth dropping them an email.
    They are showing replacement J83A for your RD04 :D
  11. mrmrva

    mrmrva wannabe adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    99
    Location:
    Belgrade, Serbia
    Already contacted them but they only have J83A replacement and my 9TB is worn. Found that needle new in Germany but 33eur with 29 eur postage :huh
    Maybe I'll buy second hand carb to have for parts when budget allows it. It seems reasonable since more and more parts, especially for RD04, are becoming unavailable.

    Thanks for helpng btw :)
  12. MUDDX

    MUDDX Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2013
    Oddometer:
    61
    Location:
    Sweden
    Out and about in Sweden...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  13. catweasel67

    catweasel67 RD04

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    17,429
    Location:
    Vienna, Austria
    You probably already know but if German is an issue for you (as it is for me) then try http://www.xrv.org.uk
  14. Ladder106

    Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2005
    Oddometer:
    5,964
    Location:
    Davis, CA
    If you are seeing needle wear, take a close look at the inside of the air tube and the "clean" side of the air box.

    The air flow system into the Transalps, RD03 and RD04 are prone to leaks due to inaccurate assembly. The most likely leak area is the back side of the air filter at the point where the filter contacts the back of the air box. It's impossible to actually SEE this connection so you never really know if it's sealed well or not. Some aftermarket filters may be just a few mm short and allow leaks in this area

    For insurance, I use a foam ring cut from foam filter material and oiled to make certain the seal is good here.

    Also (at least on the Transalp) the airbox drain tube MUST have the end capped and be sealed. This drain tube comes from the CLEAN side of the airbox. I've seen a few bikes where the owner thought that since it was just a drain - it might as well be open and allowed to drain. If the tube is open dirty air can be drawn into the airbox at that point.

    As far as assembly of the induction system....I've found it best to loosen the airbox by removing the mounting bolts holding into the frame (don't forget the one down under the rear fender). Then pulling the box back a few cm.

    Assemble the carbs, then the air tube and THEN push the airbox back into place and tighten the clamp from airbox to air tube last. This insures that you do not disturb the air tube from the carbs and everything remains sealed.

    It's also a good idea to put some brightly colored electrical tape over the airbox end of the air tube. That way it's easy to make certain that enough of the tube has gone into the airbox seal.
  15. Squily

    Squily Squily Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,956
    Location:
    Esperance WA (Down Under)
    Swapped motors on the AT, but can't get it running. Double, tripple, quadribble checked the following and its all spot-on:

    1. mechanical timing (e.g. valve timing etc)
    2. electronic timing (have a programmable ICU and it all checks out)
    3. there's spark (new plugs too)
    4. there's fuel
    5. starter turns over nice and crisp (even changed out starters to make sure)
    6. good compression
    7. checked the wiring harness and fuses etc. Cleaned and lubed up all the connectors
    8. checked the choke sliders
    No go- she won't fire up.




    What else???? :huh
  16. Jim Rowley

    Jim Rowley Rise above

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2001
    Oddometer:
    2,512
    Location:
    Black Forest, Colorado
    Kill switch?
    Sidestand switch?
  17. Squily

    Squily Squily Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,956
    Location:
    Esperance WA (Down Under)

    1. Fine - also checked the connectors under the tank.
    2. Physically disabled / bypassed. Won't turn over the engine/starter if it's 'working/activated'

    You can also 'electronically' disable all switches with the ICU (e.g. Neutral switch, sidestand etc). and that did not make any difference either.
  18. A-Wind

    A-Wind Andreas RD07a

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2008
    Oddometer:
    649
    Location:
    Redondo Beach, CA
    Hmm, kill switch or
    sidestand switch, wouldn't that "delete" all spark all together?


    How was the programmable ICU cheked? How do you know it is working properly?

    Edit: plus, I just read "it won't turn over", so you say your starter won't turn over?

    I thought it turns over but the bike just don't start.
  19. Squily

    Squily Squily Supporter

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,956
    Location:
    Esperance WA (Down Under)

    1. Yes- no spark and on the AT, the starter won;t turn at all
    2. When you have the computer plugged in on the ICU and you run the engine, it displays all the values on screen- e.g. revolutions, timing, pickup, etc. When starter turns, base advance is 5d and it all works. engine turns over at around 400rpm. When there's no spark, the computer immediately picks it up. also- any error message or signals the ICU needs or sends out gets displayed on the screen (e.g neutral switch). The computer also pics up any deviation on programmed values from the ICU when it's running.
    Edit: no, my starter turns over just fine. I meant- if the kill-switch is the issue, the starter won;t turn over.
  20. Jim Rowley

    Jim Rowley Rise above

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2001
    Oddometer:
    2,512
    Location:
    Black Forest, Colorado
    Can you bipass the ICU?