The Albatross: 1150GS Sidecar Build

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by PowderMonkey, Jun 2, 2018.

  1. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Ladies and Gentlemen, may I have your collective 3 wheeled, hack slingin’, adventure riding attention, please?!?!

    This is the start of the build thread for my 2002 1150GS/Ural hack.

    Who: I’m a vintage motorcycle fanatic that built a Ural/BMW R100 powered hack for the dog about four years back.
    http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=36141
    I’m an amateur bike builder that has access to friends whom have professional grade fabrication, welding, machining, and painting skills. I live a blissful existence in their fold. I’ve owned the following bikes a CB360, CB450, several CB750’s, several XS650’s and an R100GS (I still own this). To finance my motorcycle addiction, I work at sea for half the year, so forgive time gaps between posts.

    What: 2002 1150GS, in white. After riding through all seasons in Portland, ME, I’ve decided to move into the (more) modern age of hex head sorcery. I purchased this bike from the second owner, very recently, with less than 10K miles on it . This is the nicest motorcycle I have ever owned. I had entertained the idea of hacking a Triumph Tiger 800, but the availability of off the shelf bits and bobs to put the GS rig together appealed to me.

    The Robin to my GS is a mish-mash of Ural pieces; a 2016 tub and a 2010 frame. Both, frame and tub suffered from improperly applied coatings at their inception in Mother Russia (looks as if paint was put on after the surface rust coat had been applied). Once in my possession, these items were blasted, and then self etched, and are now awaiting a frankenstein-ian beginning. I have also boarded a couple of Russian hack swingarms over my years of pseudo-Ural ownership, that may or may not be used.

    When: Time frame is to have this completed by summer 2019. I will probably poke, research, inquire, and assemble parts until this winter, when the majority of the work will take place.

    Where: Maine. Land of lobsters, moose, chickadees, flannel, and snow.

    Why: All of the reasons.
    I love the Ural/airhead motor combo (really). It’s been a great rig. Even with being essentially a new bike, I find that it always needs something. It’s essentially a vintage motorcycle, and garners praise, and curses as such.
    Enter the GS! I want to be able to ride anywhere with this thing, and not have a care in the world. My mother (whom is a spry, spark plug of a 72 year old lass), has asked to do a trip next summer up into Atlantic Canada. She loves the other side car, and I’m hoping this will be even better.

    How: Here’s where you folks come in. I have a tentative plan, it’s not perfect, and I expect many compromises. Let me hear your voice.

    I figure I have two options on my plate; I can drag the GS and the Ural tub to Claude at CSM (8 hr drive) and have him build a subframe and fit the sidecar. Or, I can buy a subframe and a fitting kit off of DMC and put it together in my shop.

    Having ridden my Ural for awhile, here are my requirements for the GS rig:

    Power Tilt. I’ve seen mention of Progressive Automations being the choice linear actuator now? I think I can do the fabrication for this assembly.

    Sway bar. I’m positive I can adapt one of the universal torsion style sway bars used in hot rods for use in this application.

    RT Style Wheel on Hack. I plan to run RT cast wheels on all three corners, so I can run a 17” tire up front and a car tire out back (if I so wish). I think i have two choices on this. The easier route would be to mount an RT front wheel on the hack, since I could use the existing Ural 20mm axle. Using this combination, I would need to have spacers and dust covers made, create a mounting bracket for the caliper, and remove the bosses for one of the discs on the outboard side. I kinda like this idea, as I imagine the front wheel would be more prone to damage, thus a spare that would fit the car and the bike would be beneficial? The other option is to run an RT rear wheel on the hack. I’m not quite sure what black magic this would require. Is this usually done with a trailer hub assembly and a machined adapter to bolt up the wheel? I like this option, as I assume the axle for this setup would be bomb proof.

    Steering Mods. I’ve spoken with @davebig a bit about his deodone style mod. Should this be used in conjunction with one of the steering mods marketed by either CSM or DMC, or is it run on its own?

    I’m sure there’s a lot more that I haven’t thought of. Feel free to school me.

    It would be of great help to see pics of 1150GS based rigs, detailed photos of any of the technical areas described above, areas of your rig that you would change/needs improvement, etc.

    Some pics for views:
    [​IMG]
    The new steed.
    [​IMG]
    The Ural-Airhead Abortion.
    [​IMG]
    My riding partner.
    [​IMG]
    Those blasted Ural bits!

    Thanks for stopping by,

    Seth.






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  2. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    ...


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  3. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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  4. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Good morning Monkey the Dedome is a complete trail reducing system doesn't need other bits some people have used Claudes or Jays' trail reducer and had me just shorten the telelever ball joint attachment.

    You won't really need a weight jack, camber comp, height adjuster whatever anyone wants to call it if you use a sway bar, they don't seem to need it the relationship between the chair suspension and the tug swingarm stays about the same plus its a bit of over a overload helper spring.The only drawback is the ride is a bit stiffer. Run the chair wheel thru a hole and it'll let you know !
    #4
  5. Wolfgang55

    Wolfgang55 Long timer

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    Personally, I think your 1150GS is just to perfect to ad anything but a rider.

    Had to get that out of my old system after seeing your pix of the best looking 1150GS that I seen in a long time.

    Not trying to toss a ''monkey'' in on your assembly but have you considered up grading your bike's clutch spline before adding anything on ?

    Have a feeling w/ your passion in your expression you'd want to know you had more clutch sliding on that spline.

    W/ only 10,000 miles on that scoot, I would doubt if the spline would show any wear from the limited sliding back & forth.

    Perhaps some here would advise otherwise but knowing you'll be pulling a lot of extra drag/weight the preventive fix is better than the repair later.
    #5
  6. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the info Dave. Where I’d hoped the camber adjuster would help would be heading down the highway that’s crowned, or the difference between a hack with a passenger vs. without. If this isn’t the case, I won’t bother. I know that when I take the Ural on the highway , I fight the camber, and I’m pretty tired after an hour at it.


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  7. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Wolfgang, I appreciate your input. I know some folks believe that adding a sidecar to such a bike is sacrilegious, but it’s the whole reason that I bought it. A sidecar for me, is much more more useful, more convenient, and allows me to ride all year round.

    As for the spline issue, I will need to do some research, as I’d never heard of this specific weakness. Thank you for alerting me.

    Seth


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  8. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Nobody HERE believes that.

    Nice looking bike, BTW.

    These pics kinda sum up the clutch spline issue--

    cs1.jpg
    cs2.jpg
    #8
  9. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    On your wheels, perfectly fine to use a front wheel on the hack. But . . . if you use a rear on the hack then you have a wheel you can swap with the rear of the bike. Only because front wheel failures are less frequent than rear wheel failures. Let's say you had a flat on the rear that you couldn't fix and needed to limp back to civilization from whatever out back place you were at. The hack wheel carries about 1/3 of the weight of the bike's rear, so you could do the swap, then limp home. Or do the swap, disconnect the car, and ride out and get help or whatever.
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  10. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Seth
    If you have that much pull in the Ural /BMW on a crowned road you could use an adjustment and possibly a steering damper,shouldn't be that much work to drive.
    #10
  11. Bruincounselor

    Bruincounselor North Plains Drifter Supporter

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  12. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Albatross Man--you're not supposed to make comments about things for sale in the Flea Market---mods hate that--but here all bets are off. So I'll just say both or either of those wheels are an excellent deal. I'm sure I paid close to $300 for each of the eBay wheels I bought.

    Note that the rear wheel he's got there is a 5-incher so you could mount a 170 on it. But mounting a 5-incher on an 1150GS might require some hoop jumping in order to (1) not rub on the swingarm (2) not rub on the muffler (3) get the brake rotor to line up with the caliper and (4) get the ABS tone ring mounted right. I can help with that if you decide to go that way.
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  13. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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  14. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Long timer

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    Regarding the clutch modification, why would you want to do that? Spline length is longer, but do you need that?
    #14
  15. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Certain years of BMW had input shaft spline issues and took the splines off the input shaft.
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  16. Zoef zoef

    Zoef zoef Long timer

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    Correct, I had the same issue. Issue is caused by misalignment of the front cover of the gearbox. Replace front cover, and problem should be solved, while still using the BMW clutch.
    #16
  17. Bobmws

    Bobmws Curmudgeon At Large

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    More spline issues were the result of lack of lube/maintenance tha were the mis-alignment issues. The deeper spline on the clutch 'might' get you some time with a partially worn input shaft.
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  18. cycleman2

    cycleman2 Long timer

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    As other have noted you shouldn't have to fight the camber. You need to set up your rig with a passenger in the car, the rear suspension of the bike tied down ( so that it doesn't move when you get off it ). level the car front to back and side to side. Then do the toe in and lean adjustments. There are some base lines you can start with regarding toe in and lean, but each rig is going to be a bit different in that department. I use about 3/4 " lean measured at the handlebar ends ( right higher than the left ) and 1/2-3/4" toe in.

    I have found that if I set the bike & car up as a loaded rig, it handles fine with just me on the bike and minimal load in the car. I do run a steering damper.
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  19. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    I appreciate the input, guys. I’ve owned the rig for over four years. It’s a Ural. I accept its limitations. I can run all day at 55 mph on the back roads, no fatigue. At 65 mph, on the highway, where the bike has no business being, it’s definitely a workout. I don’t think any manner of adjustment is gonna change that. If I can straddle the whole rig between the fast and slow lanes, on top of the crown, handling is relatively neutral. Again, it’s a Ural, with rubber swingarm bushings, knobbie tires, and is highly sprung; I don’t think there’s a win here.

    Seth


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  20. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Hell it's cool by Ural standards but a Ural once over might help, as I recall from helping a gentlemen once they like a bit of lean out.
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