The Albatross: 1150GS Sidecar Build

Discussion in 'Hacks' started by PowderMonkey, Jun 2, 2018.

  1. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    315
    Location:
    Maine
    Some progress. I’ve just bought a new home, and have been moving, so the rig has taken a bit of a back burner.

    Mock-up pics:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    New hub and axle assembly.
    [​IMG]
    Mocking up to determine fender location and actuator placement. The front wheel is only for mock up.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    #21
  2. arbalest

    arbalest Long timer

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    Seth,

    If driving your rig is tiring in less than an hour, there is something wrong. This week is going to be hot again and I hate riding in the heat. When we get back to normal weather, I'll let you take mine out for a spin. You can take it up on the highway and see how it feels. My rig cruises easily at 70 on the highway. Coming back from Owl's Head last year, I chased my son on his Ducati at 80 for most of the ride home. It is not tiring at all. You can take your hands off the bars at 60, and depending on the crown, it may drift a little to the right. I drive my rig one handed a lot, no problem.

    Mike
    #22
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  3. cycleman2

    cycleman2 Long timer

    Joined:
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    1,577
    Location:
    Alberta, Canada
    Ural recommends 1/2" equates to about 1 degree of lean out ( away from the sidecar ). They use a square against the rear tire and measure the gap distance at the top. The sidecar should have a load ( a passenger works ) and tie the rear bike suspension down. I use the same method when I'm adjusting my BMW rig and find that I need a bit less lean out ( with my car combination etc ) and end up in the 1/4-3/8 " range when using a square placed against the rear wheel of the motorcycle. Toe in is about 5/8". Even though these measurements are set up for a loaded bike & sidecar, it handles fine when empty. I don't have the best shoulders in the world and don't find it tiring after a 6 hour ride. When going down the highway at speed with lean out I find if the bike is comfortable to sit on, no noticeable lean in either direction ( you will feel it in your back if there is too much in either direction) amd and also look at the wear pattern on the rear motorcycle tire ( easier to see than if running a car tire ). If it is even and the bike appears to be tracking equally ( side to side ) on the rear tire, then you are good to go.

    I run a much stiffer after market rear shock on the bike and one notch preload on the sidecar spring. The rig does ride better with a load but it is fine on the highway at highway speeds when empty. I do run a steering damper/dampener and have minimal speed wobbles at low speed. Riding with either hand on the bars is fine at highway speeds.
    #23
  4. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Location:
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    #24
  5. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    315
    Location:
    Maine
    [​IMG]
    New hub and axle.

    [​IMG]
    Rear wheel mounted to sidecar.

    [​IMG]
    New vs. old.

    [​IMG]
    New vs. old.


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    #25
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  6. High Octane

    High Octane Long timer Supporter

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    May 31, 2013
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    Location:
    South Dakota
    I like the grease zerks.
    #26
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  7. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Axle to hub is a press fit to be welded on both sides. My machinist friend turned the axle down a few thousandths to make it happen.


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    #27
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  8. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Jun 13, 2015
    Oddometer:
    315
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    Maine
    Here we go. A little progress, a few setbacks, and a bunch of questions.

    Right now, I have dave’s telelever trail reducer installed. I purchased DMC’s subframe for the 1150gs, as well as the Ural sidecar fitting kit, and both have been installed. I’m now working with what I have, and I’m mocking up the sidecar install.

    I’ve read a few previous threads about sidecar setups for GS rigs.
    https://advrider.com/f/threads/track-ideal-width.499536/
    I’ve got the following numbers for my mock-up:
    58.5” Wheelbase.
    50” Track (pusher center to sidecar center).
    12” Sidecar lead.

    I’m a little perplexed as to how to place the upper mount on the rig as it sits in this current position, as there’s a rather large jug in the way .
    #28
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  9. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    We can't see any images Seth.
    The 50" track and 12 lead should be good.
    #29
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  10. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    My photo sharing through Tapatalk seems to be unhappy at the moment. My questions would have more complete information with photos.
    #30
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  11. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Dave, I just sent an inquiry to Tapatalk. Hopefully, it will be sorted soon.
    #31
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  12. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    [​IMG]
    Plenty of them being bent these days/
    #32
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  13. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Anyone have measurements for tug frame height? Do others have the sidecar hub placed at the same height as the pusher hub height?
    #33
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  14. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Frame height is what it is, lots of rigs share the same size wheel on the pusher and the sidecar 17" as appears to be your plan.
    #34
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  15. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Yessir, 17”. I was wondering about dropping shock heights, or re-locating the spring perch to drop the sidecar height in whole. Are folks more interested with better handling and a lower center of gravity, or more ground clearance?
    #35
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  16. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Also, I investigated this further. I now have a much better handling rig. I thank you all for your input.
    #36
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  17. DRONE

    DRONE Dog Chauffeur

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    Tacoma - ish, WA
    Here's the way my DMC front upper strut mounted on my 2004 GSA.

    IMG_4165.jpg

    Clears the jug but just barely. Padding added because, with the way the ergo's worked out for me, jamming my knee into the strut right there was great for right turns.
    #37
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  18. davebig

    davebig Another Angry Hun !

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    Ok well ground clearance or lower center that's the issue with adv style rigs, it amounts to how you want to use it when I had a GS based rig I loved not maintained roads and once in awhile one slides into a rut , but being a pavement demon now lower is better. Claude could fix you up with a swaybar that stops most of the rocking on adv style rigs no matter how high, adding one isn't hard.
    How do you see your self using it. I personally like the lowered GS (shorter shocks) idea forget about lowering the chair much.
    My sidecar wheel on my GS could move almost 4" but in practice never moved any more than 2.5 at most.
    #38
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  19. PowderMonkey

    PowderMonkey Been here awhile

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    Thank you, drone.
    #39
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  20. triumphsidehack

    triumphsidehack Been here awhile Supporter

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2010
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Nowhere Indiana ,on the outskirts of Darmstadt
    And if your wanting to get really ridged with the setup , you can go to a 3strut mount with a Hannigan frt upper setup. Maybe over kill, but no flex in the rough stuff.

    Either way you go, it's going to be a hoot for you and your riding partner. Good luck on your build Seth, and will be following along and wishing you all the best in this endeavor. :clap IMG_7981.JPG
    #40