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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by PowderMonkey, Jun 2, 2018.
No front end!
All back together.
Here’s a fender that I got lucky with, it’s a 9” trailer fender that matches well to the wheel.
I’m gonna cut 2” out of the width, to get itmore centered over the tire. Looks great from the front, but odd at the back.
On that rear upper, do the DMC instructions specify a torque setting for the 4 bolts?
I'm asking because on my R1100GS rig that clamp rotated on me twice, though it never happened on my 1150 rig. After the first time, I tightened the bolts but was concerned about damaging the tubular subframe. After the 2nd time, I added some more torque and never had the problem again, but I still wonder if there is a "right" amount of torque. I believe most builders discourage welding those clamps to the frame, but I wonder how horrible it would be to put some JB Weld inside the clamp before you torque it. Would it even DO anything?
No torque value given in the install instructions. The lower subframe amount seems solid, but the two uppers leave a bit to be desired. I purchased the kit, after seeing the use you put your rigs through. I figured I’ll rarely be doing anything that rough, and if you haven’t broken anything, then I’ll be good to go . Are the passenger pegs still usable on your rig?
Front upper was always solid, of course it has two heavy bolts fixing it in place, it's not going anywhere. On the rear, I suppose the smart play would be to look up the max torque value for bolts of that size and made from that steel (whatever it is) so that at least you don't stretch the damn things. Then for sure you'll want some blue lockite on there.
About the passenger pegs, damned if I know. Removed my pegs from both rigs. Tell us when you find out.
Got to play with the buzz box today.
More mock up. I’m gonna have to cut the lower forward attachment tube down to clear the cylinder head. It just seems like there’s no way around it. Im fairly certain the sidecar is in the position where it should be. I’m very leery of removing the ability adjust anything by cutting what was once there. I’m at about 12” of sidecar lead, which seems to be in the ballpark.
I’m not sure how to approach the front, upper mount. I can run the mount aft, as dmc does, or create some sort of curved stay. Easiest would be to relocate the mount towards the middle, but I feel like a forward mount would be more sturdy
Lower mounts are completed.
Fabricated the fulcrum for the bell crank. This was kind of a mind$&@* for me. It was really difficult to get everything in the same plane, square, and level all at once. Is this worth the effort? For folks that have power trim, how often do you use it? I suppose I should forge ahead since I already bought the linear actuator...
Some nice fab'.
This is just me, but, the next one you build put the slot for the slip joint on the lower links towards the rear. Less road spray into the opening.
Are you leaving you ABS in?
I use mine frequently both on pavement and on dirt or gravel. In a typical 200-mile day, I probably hit the button anywhere between 5 and 10 times.
The lower mounts were dictated per DMC’s install instructions. Thanks for the kind fab words: I’m working with next to zero shop tools. What you see has all been created with the barest of hand tools and a welder:
It's all cool. It's surprising what you can achieve with a bit of skill and ingenuity. You did well.
It wasn't meant as criticism, just an observation.
I’m going to try my hardest to keep the ABS on the bike side. I intend to run a second rear master cylinder to the sidecar brake. I couldn’t wrap my head around whether or not the ABS would be confused by a brake proportioning valve.
It wasn’t taken as a criticism. Thanks for following along and sharing your insights. Please continue.
This gave me a chuckle, considering the recent course of events
I have your same bike with a DMC rig. The first few years I ran it with the ABS. Do you know with good steel lines your rig will brake better. The sidecar braking gets a little confused on hard braking unless you can figure how to program with an abs sensor and link it to the system. Taking it offroad or dirt roads the brakes will work better also. 35 pounds of wt saved. Just my 2 cents. Great Build btw!
I purchased this bike with the intention of hacking it from the beginning. I rode it solo a few times this fall, and played around with it in the gravel, and marveled at the ABS (never owned a bike with it). I’ve been waffling back and forth, as to whether I should keep the ABS. I’m going to need to do a little work with the cast wheels to get it to function correctly.
walkingbear, was the sidecar brake on your rig plumbed into the rear master cylinder, or with an independent cylinder?
On my Bmw R100/Ural rig, I fabricated a front hydraulic brake using a backing plate off of a Nash metropolitan, and then had mechanical drum brakes on the pusher and hack wheels. I found that in a panic stop, the sidecar wheel would usually lock up and skid long before the other two wheels. I’ve never ridden another rig.