Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Hacks' started by PowderMonkey, Jun 2, 2018.
It is plumbed to the rear MC, I will get a pic for you
The rear ABS will not be confused by a proportioning valve if you decide to go in that direction. In those bikes, the only thing the rear ABS circuit is looking at is wheelspin, or more specifically lack of wheel spin. And that info is gathered solely from the rear wheel tone ring sensor. So you can lock up the sidecar tire and the ABS will not engage.
Makes sense(or) .
All finished on the bell crank. I’m pretty stoked, as it works a treat. I wish I was smart enough to upload a video, cause I can’t stop running it up and down.
Yes, some of you will say the actuator is “upside down”, but honestly, it was going to be a lot more work to go the other way ‘round. I’ll have a cover sewn for it, or something.
I'm thinking water intrusiion around the motor & gearbox might be the issue with the "upside down" mount. Maybe seal it with RTV?
I've taken one of those apart before. I don't think there's a way to seal it.
@PowderMonkey -- you say it would be more work to mount it right side up. I don't see why. Can't you just flip it over? The only difference I can see is that the electrical line would end up being routed differently.
When the actuator is at it’s most extended position, the forward part of the housing won’t clear the bell crank arm. I doubt I need the full 6” of travel, but...
If I get you right, then, you're saying that when you flip it over the circled area in the pic below is making contact with the underside of the arm?
Can you grind away a little more material from the arm?
I guess I could, but it makes me feel warm and fuzzy having more arm there, than not. I undersized the extrusion a bit, so that the shock would slip fit on the inside, and I could just weld the tabs to the outside for the actuator. It’s definitely a beefy affair, but it’s not 1/4” the whole length. I think I’m just gonna roll with what I have.
Worked on the fender today. It was a 9” trailer fender, which I took 2” out of. I think I may have taken a little too much off the top . I’m at 7”, and I love the tire profile of this fender over the wheel. It just sits proud by a hair, giving that aggressive off-road truck look. The tire that’s on the GS is narrower. By chance, can anyone that’s running one of the 175/55 R17 car tires grab me a width measurement mounted? The tire calculator brings it in at 6.9”, which seems like it would be too close for comfort.
In this last pic you can see that slight tire protrusion. For some reason, that just gets me all hot and bothered.
I didn't use a framers square or anything, but just eyeballing quick and dirty I get 6-1/2" for the widest part of the sidewall.
Perfect. Thanks, drone.
Well, a little back track. I decided that I had cut that fender back a bit too much. 7” was just too narrow. I only had 1/4” on the inside of the fender, between it and tire. I didn’t feel comfortable with that clearance, so I grabbed another trailer fender (cause I got a bit too aggressive on the tack welding), and threw it in place. I don’t like the profile as much, nor how the tire is off center in the fender, but I feel more comfortable with any lateral movement that might take place. I also fabricated 3 out of 5 of the mounts for the fender (the easy ones).
Yeah but it don't get you hot and bothered! I think you need to go back to the off-road mud truck look.
It’s so wide
Family is here for the holidays, so I’m a bit stalled. I fab’d up all of the mounts, except the rear. I repositioned a the two Stock Ural mounts and added a another tab. I then made the forward mount. I was kinda lazy with it, as all I did was split the stock Ural mount, best it with a big hammer into the new position, and weld it it place. I then added width to it, and hacked off the upper portion. It’ll look fine when I throw the body filler to it.
Rear mount depends on the sway bar location.
I also spent s little time, sipping on some rye and mocking up the sway bar. I bought a sway bar kit for hot rods from here:
https://welderseries.com/Sway-Bar-Kit-Trim-to-Fit-p49762034 Well made stuff, unlike some other off the shelf parts that I’ve purchased recently...
For the sway bar orientation, it’s my understanding that the sway bar arms should be as close to the same plane as the swingarm as possible. I’m also under the impression that both arms should be the same length. I’ve seen a few examples of other folks sway bars, but if you have pics, post them up!
Oh oh I see a swaybar in there Usually the electric weight jake is over kill with a swaybar , Merry Christmas !